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Old 12-19-2013, 10:02 AM   #1
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IG shaft zincs

I am a new member and a new trawler owner.

I recently purchased a 32 IG at a very reasonable price, well as with all things nothing is free and the boat needs a lot of TLC. I have spent as much time looking through this forum as working on the boat there is a wealth of info to be had here.

To my specific question, as part of this restoration I sent the prop out for repair and was told it was junk (electrolysis). I was disappointed but not surprised considering there is not a zinc to be found on the boat. I could blame the PO but there actually is not sufficient room to put a shaft zinc.
I do understand that I can use a zinc that is incorporated into the securing nuts but I would prefer to move the shaft back and make room for a conventional shaft zinc. Before I start messing with the geometry of the boat I wanted to ask if anyone with a single engine 32 IG has this same problem?

I should make it known that the motor has been changed I am running a B series Cummings as opposed to the original Lemans. It may well be that the shaft position was altered as a result of that install. If the original Lemans had sufficient room for a shaft zinc then I should have no problem spacing the shaft back.

Thanks in advance

Sorry the boat is on the hard and shrink-ed so I don't have an avatar as yet.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:09 AM   #2
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Mr. o. As I understand it there is a mechanism to "zinc" the shaft and prop by means of a brush which contacts the shaft on the INSIDE of the boat and thence is connected to your grounding system. No need to move your shaft. Another possibility of to install a drive saver between your shaft flanges. THAT may give you sufficient space to install a shaft zinc. http://www.defender.com/category.jsp...117&id=2349131
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #3
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Thanks RT

Wow quick reply.

That was my thought to install a shaft saver or simple spacer to move the shaft back. It would make me feel a lot better to know that the original Lemans set up allowed room for the zinc. This would tell me that the spacing from the prop to the rudder would not be to close as to introduce turbulence.

I like your idea of the wiper on the inside. Can't say I have ever seen or heard of such a set up but it makes a lot of sense in this circumstance. Any idea as to were I might get more info on such a gizmo?

Thanks again
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:43 AM   #4
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When you consider moving the shaft back remember there is a rule about distance from prop to strut that is like 1 or 2 times the diameter of the shaft. Usually not enough room for the zinc and still enough clearance for cuttlass flow. Use the prop nut zinc or go inside and use the wiper bonded to your anode system.
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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Thanks OB

Never considered the cutlass spacing, the shaft is 1.5 inch and might allow room but as you point out there are other considerations water flow and prop to rudder spacing.


Glad I asked seems like a no brainier at this point. nut zinc and/or shaft wiper.

So looks like I will be moving forward with the drip-less install and put the shaft back as it was.

Still would be interesting to hear from an IG owner with the original set up to see how the builder dealt with this problem.

Thank you both for saving me from over thinking yet another one!
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:02 PM   #6
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RTF at Post #2 is right: shaft brushes (sometimes called shaft wipers) are really a great way to go. Even if you had room to fit a shaft anode, they can & do fall off and you don't know until next haul-out. I cannot quickly find a link but Google and you will see them. Look for the type that is spring-loaded and so maintains a constant contact with the shaft. Very long-lasting, if not a one-off/permanent fix
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:07 PM   #7
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Greetings,
Mr. o. Whoa! Drip-less install? First I heard of this. Personally I am dead set against them. Unless your original stuffing box is beyond repair, I would re-pack it and NOT go drip-less. I think there's a thread regarding this somewhere on this site...
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:14 PM   #8
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Consider a prop anode.

Martyr Anodes ? Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium Anodes for Pleasurecraft and Commercial Craft
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:58 PM   #9
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On my current boat and my "ex" I had installed a 1" thick solid shaft spacer to allow room for a proper zinc. No problems with either boat.
And dripless packings in both as well.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:47 PM   #10
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added a shaft brush out of a wasted zinc...through bolted it to a floating arm and wire to the bonding system...especially good for boats with limited hauls every year or two...
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:01 PM   #11
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Greetings,
Mr. o. Mr. psneeld's suggestion would work just fine but the contact surface doesn't have to be zinc. It could just as easily be a chunk of copper or steel. Pretty well anything electrically conductive will work.
Needn't be this complicated but.... Sohre Turbomachinery, Inc. - Shaft Grounding Brushes
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. o. Mr. psneeld's suggestion would work just fine but the contact surface doesn't have to be zinc. It could just as easily be a chunk of copper or steel. Pretty well anything electrically conductive will work.
Needn't be this complicated but.... Sohre Turbomachinery, Inc. - Shaft Grounding Brushes
true but I like something WAY softer than the shaft.....really good ones I have seen employ spring feed carbon brushes....but seem way too "overengineered" for what they really need to be.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:09 PM   #13
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Hmg

Don't take much to get you guys going!

I just go back from working on the boat. I will give a better reply in the AM.

Thank you I am overwhelmed.
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:20 AM   #14
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OK

I spent the day yesterday pulling the shaft apart, was a chore but not as bad as I expected. Anyway there was basically no packing, the packing assembly was loose on the shaft once I cut the hose connecting it to the log. The PO figured more hose clamps was the fix but all that did was tear up the hose. Amassing the boat didn't sink at the dock. This dose explain why the back of the motor is all rusted

So I am in for a shaft seal of some sort. I have read the threads regarding the drip-less and old world packing. There seems to be some strong opinions regarding both. I am leaning toward the drip less because of the no adjustment feature. I am not to concerned about the seal technology its a proven method most of us already have one in our washing machine.

I asked around about the shaft wiper and the first person I talked with has them in his sport fish and said they work fine. So it seems I should be able to purchase a set up for my rig. I will probably use the nut zinc also, a bit overkill but that is why I am called overgill.

Thank you all for your input, your knowledge turned what seemed a big problem into a simple fix.
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:37 AM   #15
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Have you considered getting a corrosion analysis done by a competent technician who utilizes a silver/silver-chloride (Ag/AgCl) reference electrode? We had one done this summer and it took about one hour. Money well spent. Here's a link that may help.

Corrosion Reference Electrode Product Specifications
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:42 AM   #16
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Greetings,
Mr. psneeld. "WAY softer than the shaft"...Valid concern and point taken. Mr. o. IF your stuffing box was connected to the hull with a heavy rubber tube-bonus! I think these are called self aligning stuffing boxes. ONE example: http://www.californiamarine.com/imag...NG%20BOXES.pdf
another...
Packing Boxes / Stuffing Boxes / Packing Glands
IF yours is dead, I would suggest replacing it with one of the same type. If it is still viable, simply re-pack it, replace the heavy rubber tube and re-use.
"already have one in our washing machine..." Yup, but if it fails on your washing machine you end up with a wet floor. On a boat, it will take more than a mop and bucket to clean up after the failure and you're absolutely correct there ARE strong opinions pro and con. Did I tell you how I REALLY feel?
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:19 AM   #17
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Larry that is an interesting tool. You could do your own analyses not bad for the $$, something to consider for next season.

I found a shaft wiper not a lot of $. (Electro Guard) surprising its not a very common item none of the regular suppliers seem to have them. It is basically a piece of bronze screwed to a piece of stainless.

So RTF If I were to repack the existing stuffing box how do you feel about the Teflon type stuffing material. I am told it is basically drip less.
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:29 AM   #18
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Greetings,
I've heard (somewhere and TOTALLY anecdotal) not to use the Teflon stuff. http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s...nce-12107.html
GFO seems to be the one to use...
A tutorial...Just for you.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
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Old 12-21-2013, 12:05 AM   #19
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RTF

Thanks for the tutorial/s. Even an old dog like me can still learn or at least think so.

Been working to get the flange off the shaft, its not cooperating. No flange removal no stuffing box or drip-less.

Have a great holiday
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Old 12-21-2013, 01:49 AM   #20
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Try taking the flange bolts off and putting a socket between the engine flange and the end of the shaft. Make sure the set screw is out. Put the bolts back in and carefully tighten them and it should press the shaft out of the flange. Wouldn't hurt to soak it with Kroil on something similar. Good luck.

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