I need a "Filter Microns 101" Course...

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Water alarm probes are a better option to alert you to the presence of water in your bowl than vacuum gauges.

In my experience with very low fuel consumption and fuel return engines like Lehmans that vacuum gauges aren't all that great at predicting fouled filter elements.

The engines I boated with have separate water separators on the engines.
Those same engines I am most familiar with had a generous return volume that always saw vacuum even at hull speeds. I had both Lehmans and Perkins in the past but I cannot remember what I was doing or thinking back then - too old I guess (lol).
 
I also have a multi-stage setup. 30 micron to 10 micron then the on engine filters which are supposedly 7 micron.

The dual Racors did not cut it for me, I was shutting down often.
I added the 30 micron unit and have never again shut down (knock on teak).
:thumb:
 

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In my experience with very low fuel consumption and fuel return engines like Lehmans that vacuum gauges aren't all that great at predicting fouled filter elements.

My engines behave the same. I.E. - low flow rate and the gauges never budge.

Let's assume for a moment we buy diesel from a Shell station. The same refinery that sells over the road for on land stations sells to marine outlets. Ever notice the the fuel filter on a Ford pickup diesel is minuscule in comparison to a Racor 900.

So why the difference?
 
My engines behave the same. I.E. - low flow rate and the gauges never budge.

Let's assume for a moment we buy diesel from a Shell station. The same refinery that sells over the road for on land stations sells to marine outlets. Ever notice the the fuel filter on a Ford pickup diesel is minuscule in comparison to a Racor 900.

So why the difference?


I don't know the answer at all but I can give you some of the differences between my past Ford Diesel pickup and my boats diesel fuel situations....
- Ford used 300 gallons per year or less
- Ford fuel tank was newer, fuel always fresher, and never sat idle for long
- Never seen water in Ford filter
- Ford filters were changed yearly
- Ford filters were not 2 mics
- On road fuel was known filtered at the pump and clear

Do not know which if any of all of that would make the largest difference(s).
 
There are two potential problems with relying on a vacuum gauge as a tool to tell when to change filters. Bourdon tube gauges are most accurate at the middle ranges of the scale. Lift pumps start to have problems around 2.5 psi well within the first third of most gauges range. Second problem is a full fuel tank can sometimes mask a bad filter due to the head pressure of the fuel itself depending on the location of the gauge. The t handle like on the 900 in the photo not the differential style on the manifold. 4' of fuel above a vacuum sensing gauge is about 2.5 psi. As the tank level drops vacuum will increase at a faster rate perhaps enough to start the formation of microbubbles. Think bends as in caissons disease. If the filter doesn't go into bypass and foul the secondary on engine filters then the next step on mr murphys punch list is probably a weakened lift pump diaphragm if you have one. An overflowing dipstick to start and a likely shutdown or worse to follow. Electronic diesels might continue to run that is until the secondary actually collapses and then probably stop for good.

Hands down the best way to gauge filter status is to periodically run engines up to wide open throttle and log the details.

What we have found to work best for us is to utilize a three stage filtration system. Here are the primary filters that I removed from service last month.

IMG_5287.JPG

The dirtiest is a 10 micron transfer filter. It's filtered at least 3000 gallons into our day tank and transferred another 1000 between tanks over the last 8 months of its life. The two 30's are on a racor manifold and are at their six month change intervals. They have filtered around 2700 gallons each from the day tank. Our engines return 3 gallons for every gallon burned at cruise rpm and this too is returned to the day tank. The small racor in the corner has 548 hours on it. I have no idea on the gallons burned/returned but it has been in service for the last 10 months and is close enough to 12 months to warrant a changeout.

Rather than spend our time solving fuel problems we choose to be proactive and prevent them. This is what has worked best for us.

1: We dont bunker fuel. We only keep 90 days worth of fuel onboard. Storing and traveling with next years fuel onboard costs more than any money we might save by trying to get the best price and loading up. We burn just over 7 gallons an hour fully loaded, but we can cruise for two months in the Bahamas and average 5.5 gph carrying 1/3 load plus cruise skinnier water.
2: We prefilter all fuel used into a day tank via a 10 micron racor primary filter utilizing a small transfer/priming pump.
3: We use additives as needed.
4: We change ALL filters ANNUALLY at the MINIMUM.
5: We are not afraid to run at WOT. If there are any filter issues they reveal themselves before we see any vacuum. Every hour we transfer fuel to our day tank. This normally takes between 7 and 13 minutes depending on the fuel levels in the supply tank and the machinery running. If it takes much longer the filter is starting to get plugged and its probably getting near time for a new element. We have a routine and log the results. Rpm,speed, various temps, shaft, coolant, oil, exhaust all can also be quite helpful in diagnosing future issues.
 
There are two potential problems with relying on a vacuum gauge as a tool to tell when to change filters. Bourdon tube gauges are most accurate at the middle ranges of the scale. Lift pumps start to have problems around 2.5 psi well within the first third of most gauges range. Second problem is a full fuel tank can sometimes mask a bad filter due to the head pressure of the fuel itself depending on the location of the gauge. The t handle like on the 900 in the photo not the differential style on the manifold. 4' of fuel above a vacuum sensing gauge is about 2.5 psi. As the tank level drops vacuum will increase at a faster rate perhaps enough to start the formation of microbubbles. Think bends as in caissons disease. If the filter doesn't go into bypass and foul the secondary on engine filters then the next step on mr murphys punch list is probably a weakened lift pump diaphragm if you have one. An overflowing dipstick to start and a likely shutdown or worse to follow. Electronic diesels might continue to run that is until the secondary actually collapses and then probably stop for good.

Hands down the best way to gauge filter status is to periodically run engines up to wide open throttle and log the details.

What we have found to work best for us is to utilize a three stage filtration system. Here are the primary filters that I removed from service last month.

View attachment 65496

The dirtiest is a 10 micron transfer filter. It's filtered at least 3000 gallons into our day tank and transferred another 1000 between tanks over the last 8 months of its life. The two 30's are on a racor manifold and are at their six month change intervals. They have filtered around 2700 gallons each from the day tank. Our engines return 3 gallons for every gallon burned at cruise rpm and this too is returned to the day tank. The small racor in the corner has 548 hours on it. I have no idea on the gallons burned/returned but it has been in service for the last 10 months and is close enough to 12 months to warrant a changeout.

Rather than spend our time solving fuel problems we choose to be proactive and prevent them. This is what has worked best for us.

1: We dont bunker fuel. We only keep 90 days worth of fuel onboard. Storing and traveling with next years fuel onboard costs more than any money we might save by trying to get the best price and loading up. We burn just over 7 gallons an hour fully loaded, but we can cruise for two months in the Bahamas and average 5.5 gph carrying 1/3 load plus cruise skinnier water.
2: We prefilter all fuel used into a day tank via a 10 micron racor primary filter utilizing a small transfer/priming pump.
3: We use additives as needed.
4: We change ALL filters ANNUALLY at the MINIMUM.
5: We are not afraid to run at WOT. If there are any filter issues they reveal themselves before we see any vacuum. Every hour we transfer fuel to our day tank. This normally takes between 7 and 13 minutes depending on the fuel levels in the supply tank and the machinery running. If it takes much longer the filter is starting to get plugged and its probably getting near time for a new element. We have a routine and log the results. Rpm,speed, various temps, shaft, coolant, oil, exhaust all can also be quite helpful in diagnosing future issues.


:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
 
The dual Racors did not cut it for me, I was shutting down often.

I added the 30 micron unit and have never again shut down (knock on teak).

:thumb:



Nice setup. I don't have it, but I think that large 30 micron filter ahead of your duals is a good idea.
 
There are two potential problems with relying on a vacuum gauge as a tool to tell when to change filters. Bourdon tube gauges are most accurate at the middle ranges of the scale. Lift pumps start to have problems around 2.5 psi well within the first third of most gauges range. Second problem is a full fuel tank can sometimes mask a bad filter due to the head pressure of the fuel itself depending on the location of the gauge. The t handle like on the 900 in the photo not the differential style on the manifold. 4' of fuel above a vacuum sensing gauge is about 2.5 psi. As the tank level drops vacuum will increase at a faster rate perhaps enough to start the formation of microbubbles. Think bends as in caissons disease. If the filter doesn't go into bypass and foul the secondary on engine filters then the next step on mr murphys punch list is probably a weakened lift pump diaphragm if you have one. An overflowing dipstick to start and a likely shutdown or worse to follow. Electronic diesels might continue to run that is until the secondary actually collapses and then probably stop for good.

Hands down the best way to gauge filter status is to periodically run engines up to wide open throttle and log the details.

What we have found to work best for us is to utilize a three stage filtration system. Here are the primary filters that I removed from service last month.

View attachment 65496

The dirtiest is a 10 micron transfer filter. It's filtered at least 3000 gallons into our day tank and transferred another 1000 between tanks over the last 8 months of its life. The two 30's are on a racor manifold and are at their six month change intervals. They have filtered around 2700 gallons each from the day tank. Our engines return 3 gallons for every gallon burned at cruise rpm and this too is returned to the day tank. The small racor in the corner has 548 hours on it. I have no idea on the gallons burned/returned but it has been in service for the last 10 months and is close enough to 12 months to warrant a changeout.

Rather than spend our time solving fuel problems we choose to be proactive and prevent them. This is what has worked best for us.

1: We dont bunker fuel. We only keep 90 days worth of fuel onboard. Storing and traveling with next years fuel onboard costs more than any money we might save by trying to get the best price and loading up. We burn just over 7 gallons an hour fully loaded, but we can cruise for two months in the Bahamas and average 5.5 gph carrying 1/3 load plus cruise skinnier water.
2: We prefilter all fuel used into a day tank via a 10 micron racor primary filter utilizing a small transfer/priming pump.
3: We use additives as needed.
4: We change ALL filters ANNUALLY at the MINIMUM.
5: We are not afraid to run at WOT. If there are any filter issues they reveal themselves before we see any vacuum. Every hour we transfer fuel to our day tank. This normally takes between 7 and 13 minutes depending on the fuel levels in the supply tank and the machinery running. If it takes much longer the filter is starting to get plugged and its probably getting near time for a new element. We have a routine and log the results. Rpm,speed, various temps, shaft, coolant, oil, exhaust all can also be quite helpful in diagnosing future issues.


Most all of this is great and makes a huge amount if sense to me anyway.
Our vac gages are +/- 2% at full sweep and as such do not come into play.
Because of their location in the system the fuel 'head' plays little role as we tested that with new filters with 1/4 tanks and full tanks with similar readings. In our case fuel flow is always sufficient to show issues well before a WOT test reveals anything - WOT tests are a part of our base-lining but they almost always reveal bottom and/or running gear growth. It would appear that different engines can be best monitored with different but similar methods.
 
Cafe

Good writeup of your procedures. One point that you raise that is often overlooked is filter location vs tank level. For those vessels with hull bottom located integral tanks there will automatically be a stronger lift vacuum than for those of us with filters below tank level.

Your vessel is ideal with a relatively constant day tank level and presumably believable vacuum readings. BTW, you practice hearsay for some TFites by running your engines at full rated RPM to assess system health.
 
Filters as a topic now rivals anchors, single vs twin, and fuel additives....
 
Ski

Good point. But, solid liquid separation is a huge business and part of all of our every day lives. Real science, Doctoral thesis, conferences etc. I betcha you have some great stories about keeping the water clean in a nuclear power plant.

Anchors on the other hand are simply a mass vs shape discussion. Twins vs singles, well everybody knows you need one or the other except for kayaks and Hobie Craft.
 
Unless you have common rail engines the micron thing is not a biggy. Water often is the biggy especially on boats with old large tanks. The crud grows in the water. Clean tanks clean dry fuel is the first line of defense. Large tank-age on a boat with low hour use is the enemy. High capacity(bulk) and multi-stage filtration with vacuum gauges is your friend. Well designed polishing is a more complicated friend.
 
Ski

Good point. But, solid liquid separation is a huge business and part of all of our every day lives. Real science, Doctoral thesis, conferences etc. I betcha you have some great stories about keeping the water clean in a nuclear power plant.

Anchors on the other hand are simply a mass vs shape discussion. Twins vs singles, well everybody knows you need one or the other except for kayaks and Hobie Craft.

Yep, spent a lot of time dealing with the very technical side of filtration in the plants. Truly has doctoral level science involved, as well as lots of engineering on a common sense level. Each situation will have an appropriate filtering system. Many considerations to take into account, too many to list here.

But the bottom line is that for most trawler engines, a Racor single or twin 30 or 10mic primary, and the engine mfr's spec'd secondary do the job absolutely fine.

Most boats go an entire service interval with no need for filter change, maybe one or two Racor elements. What then is the advantage of adding into it more parts and more complexity??

If you have a boat that routinely clogs primaries, and the clogging persists after several changes, then something has to be done. Even most boats with dirty tanks will clog primaries often initially, then each one afterward runs longer and longer. Eventually the filters clean the loose stuff out of the tanks, and the filter can run for most or all of a service interval.

Keep it simple and do reasonable maintenance.

And get the water out of your tanks, and keep it out.
 
I'm not a filter expert, just my over ten years experience with FL120s:

Racors500, 10 microns, changing yearly (~ 200 hrs).

On engine MANN P917x (don't know the mesh), changing every two-three years. This type of filter was indicated by a Ford owners manual (Netherlands).

Never encountered any issues. Filters look great when got them out.
Thought last year about to enlarge interval for the on engine filters depending on Racors condition next time ...
 

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Additional: average fuel consumption is 500-700 liters per engine for our ~200 hrs interval on the Racors.
 
Most of the pictures of filters with lots of gunk would seem to be ashphaleine.

The diesel naturally reverts to clumps as it ages.

While google will find chemical cures , the best solution would seem to be to burn enough fuel , so whats in the tank is not years old.

This might mean years with the tank less than full, but condensation water is easily caught with modern filters.

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