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Old 11-19-2014, 08:02 PM   #21
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Well fantastic! Hello!! But now you'll know about all my motor-boat newbie misadventures and probably want to raise my rates! (Just Kidding)((I hope))

To all the rest of you, Get in touch with Pau Hana for your yacht insurance. He's a good guy!
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:06 PM   #22
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No fear, brother- I have many tales of woe regarding engines (I did learn some new cuss words!) We'll have you and Karen over for dinner on the boat and we'll swap tall tales....
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:06 PM   #23
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No worries. I looked at your survey and got some info.

I did find this:
Water Pump Kit - Sierra
Now that's some pretty damn good insurance service right there!! WTG, Peter!
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:11 PM   #24
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Thanks Peter!! That would be fun. You two are a hoot!
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:35 PM   #25
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I am here to serve.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:40 AM   #26
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Peter,I hope you kept it as a spare just in case.
No need Bruce, I already have a spare - the near perfect one I had replaced when I first bought the boat 12 yrs ago. So that last one did well for 12 yrs. Not bad eh..? I'm a great believer in the "if it ain't broke" philosophy.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:25 AM   #27
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Now that's some pretty damn good insurance service right there!! WTG, Peter!

Ditto!!


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Old 11-20-2014, 08:30 AM   #28
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>I'm a great believer in the "if it ain't broke" philosophy.<

I prefer PM, preventave maint.

The risk of the impeller breaking with the need to disassemble so much of the cooling system to chase rubber chunks is too much to contemplate.

Today with keel cooling its not a worry ,

BUT when I had engines with rubber implellers ,,,

I would always install a Y filter after each impeller. They take but a second to examine and will catch everything but dust.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:43 PM   #29
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Easy enough boo boo. I put a note or a tag at the helm if I've shut off the raw-water intake, and always, so far, listening for/observing the gurgling/splashing exhaust immediately after every engine start.
Start the engine, turn on the electronics and go watch the water come out of the exhaust and wait for the big gush. Every time.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:15 PM   #30
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Start the engine, turn on the electronics and go watch the water come out of the exhaust and wait for the big gush. Every time.

That's a smart practice. When we start engines one of us goes to the aft deck and watches the exhaust as each engine starts. The purpose is to confirm the raw water system is working and to see if anything undesired--- like rust-- is in that first shot or two of water.

It was seeing rust in the first shots of water that told us that the not-very-well-designed exhaust systems that were on the boat when we bought it were developing problems.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:46 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=Marin;287138]... When we start engines one of us goes to the aft deck and watches the exhaust as each engine starts. The purpose is to confirm the raw water system is working and to see if anything undesired--- like rust-- is in that first shot or two of water...
/QUOTE]
I was checking out an IG 32 with twin raw water cooled(no heat exchangers) 80hp Lehmans. On starting, bits of shell etc were ejected with the water.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:50 PM   #32
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Would you happen to have a pic of the Y filter install?
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:56 PM   #33
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I was checking out an IG 32 with twin raw water cooled(no heat exchangers) 80hp Lehmans. On starting, bits of shell etc were ejected with the water.
That can be a problem.We have a sea cock on the forward port side that services the raw water wash down pump and the Eutectic refrigeration system.

I ran into a problem with water flow to the eutectic system, and tracing it back found that when we were using the wash down pump to clean the anchor sometimes we were surrounded by great clouds of mud, and some of that was being drawn back into the sea cock and then through the Y valve into the raw water Eutectic line.

We now put a little stern way on the boat when washing down the anchor to keep the sea cock clear of any anchor crud.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:36 PM   #34
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We now put a little stern way on the boat when washing down the anchor to keep the sea cock clear of any anchor crud.
That's a very good idea, thanks. I think we'll start doing that, too. We have two engine raw water intakes and the intake for our big, previous-owner-installed 1hp AC motor-driven washdown pump in the bottom of the boat near the forward end of the engine room. Never occurred to me until just now that some of the mud and muck that got washed off the anchor might circle under and get into the intakes. We always have both engines running when we're retrieving the anchor, and of course the washdown pump's going, too.
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:41 AM   #35
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On our Hatteras there is a T on the raw water which pumps directly out the side so you can quickly glance down from the flybridge to confirm water is pumping.

To the OP - running a water pump dry can heat up the rubber so it is not as stiff. They make look good but will bend too much under pressure and not pump as much volume which is probably what you experienced. Definitely good you changed them out...especially if you have never done it!
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