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Old 05-08-2016, 12:26 PM   #81
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Jabsco Puller
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:34 PM   #82
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Jabsco Puller
My boat is kept in what once was a little fishing village. It isn't little anymore, the fishing fleet isn't as large, and the boat builders are long gone. BUT, it is blessed with a small West Marine store (don't have much but can get anything shipped there for free) and an independent chandlery that makes its money selling kayaks and paddleboards but has a small but decent supply of boating hardware and supplies. I always check there first for things I need to buy. If they don't have it in stock, they will order it fast. They aren't the cheapest, but I want them to stay in business so I give them as much of my business as I can. Having a brick and mortar independent chandlery is a huge asset.

Anyway, they ordered me a Sea-Dog impeller puller which cost about $50. It worked really well and is about 1/2 the cost of the Jabsco impeller puller.

I wish I had read a tip on the Seaboard Marine website before I removed the impeller however. The pump had been sitting dry for close to two weeks since the HX and aftercooler had been pulled out for servicing. Even with the puller, it was tough to get out since the vanes were all stuck to to the inside of the pump. The Seaboard Marine tip is something that I'm sure that most of you already know but just in case....

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"This is something that should and needs to be done with ALL impellers when you are removing them… Once the cover plate is removed, you need to spray WD-40 (or something similar) inside the housing and into the spline or key & shaft area (liberally) and then BUMP the engine. Then spray it one more time and bump the engine again… TWO times and now that impeller is ready to be removed.Once you do that, it will “break” the dry bond that always seems to occur between the rubber and the housing and also loosen up the spline (or key). This is essential during any impeller removal and now the impeller will slide out EASILY.
When installing a new impeller, throw out all that crap about lubing – Use any common white lithium grease (or similar grease) and life becomes easy for all… Instant prime too. Be sloppy with it, coat all inside, shaft and impeller and I personally guarantee it with not hurt your impeller if you are planning to finish the job and test the engine within a few days or so… That old wives’ tale has got to go – But, if this makes you squeamish, then go ahead and use a synthetic or silicone based grease made specifically for all types of rubber elastomers."
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:37 PM   #83
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I didn't think to ask earlier: Is the Cummins 6BT impeller not center-threaded like the ones we have on the 6CT? With ours, I can just screw a long bolt into the center of it, and the impeller backs itself right out...


There's a purpose-made threaded bolt/handle thing that works too, but clearance is actually somewhat easier if I just use a long bolt with a socket and ratchet.


-Chris
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:20 PM   #84
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I didn't think to ask earlier: Is the Cummins 6BT impeller not center-threaded like the ones we have on the 6CT? With ours, I can just screw a long bolt into the center of it, and the impeller backs itself right out...
There's a purpose-made threaded bolt/handle thing that works too, but clearance is actually somewhat easier if I just use a long bolt with a socket and ratchet.
-Chris
On nine, Sherwood pump on 2003, 6BTM5.9 @ 210 hp the shaft is not threaded for a bolt. I do have a Jabsco puller for it.
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:48 PM   #85
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I didn't think to ask earlier: Is the Cummins 6BT impeller not center-threaded like the ones we have on the 6CT?
-Chris
The OEM 1700 series Sherwood pump on the 6BT or 6BTA is not.

The SeaMax replacement pump is. Makes impeller removal much, much easier. And if impeller is ordered from Seaboard, they supply a threaded puller with each impeller. (Anyone need one? I now have a few extra.)

The OEM Sherwood also has a key in a slot on the pump shaft, which key can fall out and disappear into the intake hose (ask me how I know).

Reinstalling an impeller on the OEM pump while trying to keep the key in the slot without it falling out or riding up the shaft can lead to overuse of four letter words.

The SeaMax has a splined shaft. Easy peasey.
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:26 AM   #86
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The OEM 1700 series Sherwood pump on the 6BT or 6BTA is not.
I had a 1700 series pump and mine were threaded. I read somewhere that they eliminated the thread, then brought it back.
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:42 AM   #87
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I don't know about the 1700 series, but the QSB engines use the Sherwood 27000 series pump. That impeller is threaded, but I had a hard time finding a bolt to fit it (didn't run all over town however to try and find one). The 27000 impeller is splined.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:11 AM   #88
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I don't know about the 1700 series, but the QSB engines use the Sherwood 27000 series pump. That impeller is threaded, but I had a hard time finding a bolt to fit it (didn't run all over town however to try and find one). The 27000 impeller is splined.
Dave, I think I got mine at ACE but certainly Tacoma Screw should be able to help.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:15 AM   #89
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Dave, I think I got mine at ACE but certainly Tacoma Screw should be able to help.
Yup. I tried ACE in Gig Harbor but they didn't have anything. Traffic being what it is now days, I decided not to go to Tacoma Screw, although they definitely would have one. I have yet to come up with anything they don't have.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:28 AM   #90
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Yup. I tried ACE in Gig Harbor but they didn't have anything. Traffic being what it is now days, I decided not to go to Tacoma Screw, although they definitely would have one. I have yet to come up with anything they don't have.
We have an excellent ACE in Port Orchard with a very good selection of nuts and bolts. I assume you don't need the bolt right now but when you find the bolt, I suggest you get two of them - one about 2 1/2" to extract the impeller and another that is 1" long. I use the short bolt when I install the impeller. I screw it into the impeller and than use a hammer to tap it home. Works great.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:57 AM   #91
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I had the same pump on my Grand Banks which had QSC engines rather than QSB, but apparently the same pump. I don't recall the exact thread, but the extractor bolt thread is metric - I remember that much. It's very handy for getting the old impeller out
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:46 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
I don't know about the 1700 series, but the QSB engines use the Sherwood 27000 series pump. That impeller is threaded, but I had a hard time finding a bolt to fit it (didn't run all over town however to try and find one). The 27000 impeller is splined.
Quote:
Originally Posted by windmist View Post
Dave, I think I got mine at ACE but certainly Tacoma Screw should be able to help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
Yup. I tried ACE in Gig Harbor but they didn't have anything. Traffic being what it is now days, I decided not to go to Tacoma Screw, although they definitely would have one. I have yet to come up with anything they don't have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by windmist View Post
We have an excellent ACE in Port Orchard with a very good selection of nuts and bolts. I assume you don't need the bolt right now but when you find the bolt, I suggest you get two of them - one about 2 1/2" to extract the impeller and another that is 1" long. I use the short bolt when I install the impeller. I screw it into the impeller and than use a hammer to tap it home. Works great.

For ours (17000-series), McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) was an easy source:

1
92865A479
2
92865A483


3/4"-16 fully threaded, one 3" long, one 4" long.

I think I used both, during the process on the 17000-series pumps on our 6CTs, but can't remember why, off-hand.

A socket head on a ratchet makes extraction relatively simple. Way faster than the Sherwood tool.

-Chris
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:37 AM   #93
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Now that you mention that, I'm no longer sure that the 27000 is metric. This getting old thing sucks.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:08 PM   #94
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Changed my Jabsco yesterday. Lubed with Dawn and watched the bubbles come out the exhaust. Life is good when water pumps pump. Another pump trick some may not know is that if the cover plate is badly worn you can get away with polishing up the outside and use that for your wearing surface.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:43 PM   #95
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Has anyone installed the aftermarket waterpump aluminum cover with 4 hand tightening knurled bolts? I forget the brand, (Speedseal)???? but it looked like an really easy way to do underway pronto impeller replacement.

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Old 05-17-2016, 03:49 PM   #96
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Has anyone installed the aftermarket waterpump aluminum cover with 4 hand tightening knurled bolts? I forget the brand, (Speedseal)???? but it looked like an really easy way to do underway pronto impeller replacement.

Welcome to Speedseal
They are great if the nuts are hard to get to. However, all it does it make taking off and replacing the cover of the pump a bit easier. I have never had a boat where the access to the face of the cover was much of a problem.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:29 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
On nine, Sherwood pump on 2003, 6BTM5.9 @ 210 hp the shaft is not threaded for a bolt. I do have a Jabsco puller for it.
Also to clarify, this engine that we also have in our boat does not have the issue of the motor mount being in the way when removing the pump. I believe that is the case with the BTA version, which is after-cooled. Also, they do not make a seamax pump for the BT (vs the BTA). I just pull the pump when changing the impeller. If I have just run the engine, it comes out easily with some needle nose pliers.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:14 AM   #98
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cappy208.
Yes I've fitted 2, one to my Perkins 4236 powered Birchwood.
The old Jabsco cover with little fiddly screws, (one always drops in the bilge) made checking/changing a pain.

The cover is machined brass.
Brilliant improvement, after I fitted one I never fitted an impeller even after cruising from Ireland to Spain. I checked the impeller and replaced it 'just in case', when I got there.
Use loads of washing up liquid to coat the interior walls of the pump housing and the impeller when fitting, it makes the job so easy and lubricates on first start up.
Use a plastic tie wrap to compress the blades for easy impeller insertion.
Don't worry if the blades of the impeller aren't lying the right way because the moment you start the motor they flip into the right direction.
Have plenty of paper towels to clean hands etc.
The knurled nuts on the Speedseal only need to be hand tight firm, the whole idea is to be able to undo them without tools to make impeller change quick and easy.


I was so please with the Speedseal that when I bought 'Snow Mouse' I immediately bought the later modified 'Run dry' version, even better.
I'm just a happy satisfied user.
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:25 AM   #99
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They are great if the nuts are hard to get to. However, all it does it make taking off and replacing the cover of the pump a bit easier. I have never had a boat where the access to the face of the cover was much of a problem.
I really like the Speedseal, especially for hard-to-reach pumps. In addition to making impeller changes a much easier job, the Speedseal uses an o-ring in a groove on the cover plate (which is a thicker metal plate) to make the seal. It has more of an industrial feel and I prefer the O-ring to paper gaskets. I also prefer the four knurled thumbscrews to the numerous smaller screws holding down the original cover (some of which are still in my bilge). The "high-end" model has a plastic or Teflon bearing surface, which may or may not make a difference, but looks like it should.
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