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Old 11-06-2013, 02:10 AM   #1
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Hynautic hydraulic engine controls

Not that long ago I got a set (2 engine / 2 station) of Hynautic controls like but not as clean as these for a very good price


(I have an extra 4 head units)

I have swapped all the hynautic 5/16th brass compression fittings to suit nylon hose out with generic ones (Oz prices for Hynautics brass was near $1000 vs $120 for other ), replaced filters and bleeders and have new hose.

I have filled the system with water (it is supposed to be 50/50 glycol water) for testing and flushing and pumped it up to 100psi and pumped and bled and pumped and bled and am slowly getting rid of the crud that is inside the actuators and heads.(rusty coloured watery yuck)

My question is - is there a better fluid that can be used for flushing?

I have sent emails to Hynauitic/Seastar but they haven't replied and I have done the search and found a bit on steering, but nothing on engine controls
Trawler Forum - Search Results

As my system doesnt use hydraulic fluid as such I imagine it needs a different fluid for flushing.

I hope someone has some answers, google doesnt appear to.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:43 AM   #2
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My question is - is there a better fluid that can be used for flushing?
Flush with the working fluid. If you use plain water you will just make more yucky looking crud.

Glycol coolant is cheaper than Hynautic parts.

If the thing has rust and crud in it you really ought to take it apart and clean all the moving parts properly and replace seals as required or you will be fighting problems as long as you own it.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:20 AM   #3
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A second possibility is to use a small pressure pump to clean flush each part individually , and operate it while its being flushed.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:38 AM   #4
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Flush with the working fluid. If you use plain water you will just make more yucky looking crud.

Glycol coolant is cheaper than Hynautic parts.
Its a flush - the water stays in their for no more than an hour before a new lot goes through.
If I used glycol each time I probably would have thrown away $50 today. If using the hynauitic stuff probably $500

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If the thing has rust and crud in it you really ought to take it apart and clean all the moving parts properly and replace seals as required or you will be fighting problems as long as you own it.
May be what I have to do by the looks.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #5
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Flush it once with clean glycol coolant. Filter the glycol through a cheese cloth. Observe and save crud 1. Flush with filtered coolant one more time. Observe crud 2 and compare to 1. Flush with clean coolant and filter again through clean cheese cloth and compare crud 3 to 2. If not getting a lot less crud at each step, take apart per RickB suggestion. If much cleaner repeat until clean.

Clean exterior with lots of WD 40 and a toothbrush to remove dirt from small shafts and rotating/sliding parts. Also, insure reservoir tank is clean internally.
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:01 PM   #6
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Strip those dirty parts and clean them or you may simply result in spreading that crud throughout the system and end up spending far, far more than the $50 you are worried about + the time to redo it all.

A flush is meant to clear old fluids and minor dirt left from the installation but if there is major junk you may be fighting a losing battle.

I like Sunchasers suggestion + as an effectiveness comparison between flushes and material saving. Have you any coffee filters to use along with the cheese cloth. The cheese cloth will catch the coarse stuff, the coffee filters the finer stuff. They are fine enough to get a lot. Even the paint strainers will help.
Even an old filter head with a clean filter on it and pour the flush through although you won't be able to see what it catches.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:55 PM   #7
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Having a result now.
System is maintaining pressure and controls are working, though one set is a a little stiff, but it does seem to be freeing up with use.
The water that is coming out when opening the bleeding ports is definitely getting cleaner as well.

When I am happy with it i'll drain the water and fill and charge with the glycol mix and let that sit.

I should point out that this is a bench test to iron out the bugs and is not currently in vessel.

Big win for me - System presents very well and owes me about $500 and to buy it new in Australia would cost around
I imagine they dont sell many at those prices
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:05 AM   #8
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When I am happy with it i'll drain the water and fill and charge with the glycol mix and let that sit.

Sooner the better , the antifreez is not to stop internal icing it is to lubricate and rust/corrosion proof the many various metal internal parts.
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:29 PM   #9
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Strip those dirty parts and clean them
Yep, spent most of yesterday doing just that and will do the rest today and tomorrow.
While I had clean water coming out on the bleed I still had a sticky slave or maybe head unit so figure a dill valve (tyre valve) had something blocking it.
When I stripped it there was a fair bit of crud internally so I am glad it is out and the plus is that I know now whats involved and its not very involved at all.
In fact, I was surprised at how simple the system is, just a piston, a cog a few O-rings and couple of tyre valves.
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:23 PM   #10
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Glad to hear you are cleaning the parts.

It sounds like you did get a great deal. Now it will continue to be when you get it on the boat.

Have fun and good luck
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:49 AM   #11
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$15,936.00

And you worry about a gallon of $13.00 antifreez?
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:09 AM   #12
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$15,936.00

And you worry about a gallon of $13.00 antifreez?
Well I didn't pay $15936 did I, but the point is, why waste money buying something for a short term test when a free product will do?

Water was suggested for testing by hydraulic experts here, they could have easily sold me the glycol mix.
Seeing as they do this stuff for a job I would think they should be better qualified than an anonymous internet poster.
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:08 AM   #13
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Ouch!

We have hydraulic experts here on the forum as well.....Hell, it's the internet. You can be anybody you want to be!!
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:13 AM   #14
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Hell, it's the internet. You can be anybody you want to be!!
Aint that the truth!
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:56 PM   #15
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Well, after much dicking around I have a mostly wonderfully clean and fully serviced system that should be working perfectly, right?

WRONG

After several bouts of part swapping I have come to the conclusion that there is an issue with one of the STV-10 lockout valves.



which in real life look like this



I took them off of the ends of the slaves and reconnected the system and it worked flawlessly, so obviously this is where the fault lies, but apparently the STV-10's are needed to stop throttle creep so cant be left off..

Does anyone know how to get these apart?
There is nothing in the manual about it, the two aluminium nuts on the end come off and there are poppet balls in them and inside the block there are brass and O rings visible, but no indication as to how to get that assembly out.
A tap with a wooden dowel and hammer didnt produce a result.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:53 AM   #16
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You will probably find that the crud and corrosion has had its way with the valves. If you can't get it apart without further damage, a $100 replacement is probably the best way to go.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:47 AM   #17
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You will probably find that the crud and corrosion has had its way with the valves.
The brass was still shiny and no corrosion was visible.
I think there is a schraedder (tyre) valve inside the brass bit that needs replacement, but how to get the brass bit out to access the valve?

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If you can't get it apart without further damage, a $100 replacement is probably the best way to go.
Try $310 here

Lock Out Valve - Hydraulic Controls & Accessories - Engine Controls - Engine & Maintenance - Shop Online | BLA Australia

Your $100 from the US will probably cost me about $80 in freight on top and a few weeks
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:03 AM   #18
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There may be a snap ring if you are lucky. There may be a threaded retainer with a castle type cuts on it that requires a special spanner or some ingenuity on your part. If you can't find a parts diagram on the net you might call someone who overhauls these things and offer to buy him a cup of coffee for his knowledge.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:53 AM   #19
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There may be a snap ring if you are lucky. There may be a threaded retainer with a castle type cuts on it that requires a special spanner or some ingenuity on your part.
No, there isnt any evidence of snap rings or special spanners
It really looks like it is a just pushed in

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If you can't find a parts diagram on the net you might call someone who overhauls these things and offer to buy him a cup of coffee for his knowledge.
Well thats the thing, in Australia I doubt there would be anyone.
The guys who sell them here seem pretty clueless as to how stuff works and I haven't had any replies from the head office in the US either
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:36 PM   #20
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Give these guys a try ...


DCV10 Lock Valve

http://www.hydraforce.com/Directnl/Dvpocklo.htm#DCV10

Take the information here and go visit a hydraulic shop.
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