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Old 11-17-2013, 05:27 PM   #21
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Give these guys a try ...


DCV10 Lock Valve

HydraForce Hydraulic Cartridge Directional Pilot-Operated Check Valves, Lock Valves

Take the information here and go visit a hydraulic shop.
Thanks Rick, different part number but "appears" to be visually the same.
Off to Pirtek I go.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:52 AM   #22
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Off to Pirtek I go.
And they were clueless as well
as were 3 other hydraulic/valve places nearby

This is what it looks like inside and the brass/Oring is what I want to remove.

Its the same on both ends

The only suggestion they had was to belt it out, which I have already tried
I tried that again on both of them and they gave no hint of moving.

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Old 11-18-2013, 04:51 AM   #23
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The only suggestion they had was to belt it out, which I have already tried
If "belt it out" means to whack it with something to try and drive it out the other side then I think that will be a waste of time and damage it.

The pilot valve you see is almost certainly a push fit into the bottom of the bore which holds the ball and spring. Try slamming the body down on a hard flat surface so that inertia of the brass seat breaks it loose. Sort of like an inertia bullet puller ...

It might help to heat the valve body to expand it a bit and maybe break the corrosion bond that is causing the problem. It also looks like the O-rings may have swollen from a solvent or incompatible fluid, that will stick the bits together as well.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:07 PM   #24
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Thanks Rick, I'll try that today
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:36 PM   #25
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Thanks Rick, I'll try that today
OK, Orings had to be picked out in bits, they had sort of glued themselves in and didnt want to come out without a fight.

Tried Ricks method above and it didnt work so tried a tap on the alloy block and a bit popped out.
Other end had the same result (Ricks method must have loosened then for me )

As you can see in the picture, there is a step inside, so it was never going to get punched through as was recommended by the local hydraulic boys



Once those bits were out there was another brass shaft inside and that pushed through, but there is no crud in there, so that section didnt need to be pulled apart.
But it is nice to know how it is done and nice to know that I can service it anywhere if I have the right Orings (I have several spares of each Oring, Brass fitting and olive used)

The bits from inside



Last night I had an email from Teleflex US with a PDF.
It shows what bits are supposed to be in there.



None of mine had spring # 3 , though my parts do have the receptacle for it
And I dont have Oring #9 , so its hard to imagine an effective seal as the ball would be sitting on top of the pin.

I am waiting for a reply back from teleflex , (maybe earlier models were different) before putting it back together.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:50 PM   #26
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The pin sticking out for where Oring#9 is "supposed" to be

That assembly is about 1 3/4 inches long
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:27 AM   #27
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Don't forget to polish off all that corrosion before you reassemble the valve.

Try to smile when you pay $100 for $.30 worth of springs and a couple of ball bearings.
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:59 PM   #28
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Don't forget to polish off all that corrosion before you reassemble the valve.
Done and acid washed the alloy

Quote:
Try to smile when you pay $100 for $.30 worth of springs and a couple of ball bearings.
There was no smiling on fittings here.
In Oz, those parts are considerably more than the US.
$27 each for balls
$27 each for springs.

But I did manage to get the sizes for the springs so $5 each for S/S at the hydraulic shop and $1.35 for the S/S balls

Every other part was equally outrageous here which is why I have swapped out many bits with same same but not Hynautics.
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