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Old 09-23-2014, 01:31 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Bay Pelican View Post
If the windlass can only be operated when the motor is running is there some safety mechanism that allows the operator to drop the anchor when the motor quits in shallow water?
On mine (Lewmar) you can loosen the clutch (you need the square drive tool to do this) and the anchor will drop.

Or, just lift the chain or line out of the gypsy and let it down.
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:32 PM   #42
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We have a Lighthouse 1501. If the motor fails, manual retrieval is through a socket that accepts a standard sailboat type winch handle. Here is what the manufacturer says about manual operation:

A winch handle socket on top of the winch is provided for kedging and allows a maximum pull manually through a 60:1 gear ratio. This means if only 35 lbs. of pressure is exerted on a standard 10" winch handle in kedging socket, a potential of 10,500 lbs. Is available at the capstan.

For example; 35 lbs. X 10" = 350 lbs., 350 lbs. X 60 (gear ratio)= 21,000 lbs., divide 21,000 lbs. By the radius of the capstan (2")=10,500 lbs. On most boats, this could be the most powerful device for winching available.

I've tried this at the dock only and it work great although slow.
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:40 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bay Pelican View Post
If the windlass can only be operated when the motor is running is there some safety mechanism that allows the operator to drop the anchor when the motor quits in shallow water?
We have a clutch on the side. The star handle in the above photo. In fact we lower the anchor most of the time using it vs. the electric reversing foot peddle (which is an option) because of how slow the windlass is. The retrieval and deployment speed is my only complaint with this windlass.
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Old 09-23-2014, 02:38 PM   #44
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Whatever your back up plan is, try it at the dock or in calm conditions rather than wait to test under duress. This kind of thing always seems to happen at the worst time, so know what to expect. If you are relying on a manual over ride on the windlass itself, then have a plan if for some reason that doesn't work, like a gear box failure or other non-electrical or hydraulic issue. After a few tests the ultimate back up plan may be "get out the bolt cutters/hack saw/ Sawzall !"

I love all chain rodes, but boy is it tedious manually hauling up 200 feet of it, and then of course, that anchor.

PS: Larry, always admired those Lighthouse units.
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:37 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
How do I power my windlass??? I AM the windlass. Muscle power.
Let me guess, you posed for the artist that drew the label on the boxes of arm and hammer baking soda?
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:19 PM   #46
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The Muir horizontal windlass has a manual retrieve handle, slow as, but it works. Muir recommend removing the pawl it uses,to eliminate any risk of engagement during normal powered retrieve. Our windlass free falls, so no problem paying out without power.
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:49 PM   #47
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Twice in the last five years I have boarded boats at anchor that were dragging and used the windlass without being able to start the engine. While generally the owner will start the engine before using the windlass a third party trying to save the boat may not have a key to the inside.
Wouldn't matter on any of my boats.
With the failure of the switch the windless can drop or retrieve the anchor by itself ..it happened on my previous boat while all were ashore. I always shot off the anchor switch after shut down
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:39 PM   #48
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Ted

Your vessel is a beauty, what is its history and where in CR do you moor it?

Berthed at Brown's Bay Marina, just north of Seymour Narrows and Campbell River, BC.

She was built as a coastal patrol/combat vessel for the Canadian navy.
was then a tow boat for two companies before being refit as pleasure vessel.
I have been told the conversion (about 1961) was designed by Monk.
She seems to draw lots of attention.
Thanks
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:10 PM   #49
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:04 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by jstauffer View Post
My question is, should the anchor windless be powered from the house batteries, start battery or a battery of it's own.
Don't know that there's a "should" in the answer. All three options can work. Pick the one that makes the most sense for your boat's electrical system.

FWIW, our Lofrans Tigres runs off the original windlass' wiring, which is from the house battery bank via a separate breaker which we leave off unless we're going to use the windlass.

As others have written, we always have both engines running when we retrieve the anchor.
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