Hose clamps

[BelleAurore]

This topic is but one reason this forum is so great... A bit off topic, but as part of my maintenance (and safety) routine I keep a Clamp-Aid on every hose clamp. Last thing I need at or away from the dock is a slashed wrist from a hose clamp end. Then I realized that by changing every clamp cover to a different color each year I would be forced to put my hands on every clamp on the boat. Clamp-Aids come in lots of colors and I buy by the 100 count bag.

 

[BelleAurore]

Whenever I'm down there for whatever reason, the driver is there for me to check clamps. Sometime before we go full time cruising in July, all those clamps will be the same. Some may be difficult to get to, but it sure is reassuring that when I get into that cramped spot, I'll no longer be cussing up a storm because I need another fricken tool.

I too keep nut drivers at the redy. However, I think we all know that stretch is what holds any fastener tight. My question is; what is too tight or not tight enough? Not tight enough they can vibrate loose. Too tight and you take the chance of premature failure.


Are you ever concerned that tightening a loose clamp is because it was not tighten sufficiently to begin with, or has over tightening caused the clamp to stretch beyond its metalic elastic range resulting in a clamp that is permanently weakened and will never stay "tight enough?"

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. BA. You raise an excellent point. What is the "Goldilocks" setting for hose clamps? The vast majority of failure situations I have had are rust related with just a few being "stripped" sections on the band.

 

[healhustler]

Greetings,
Mr. BA. You raise an excellent point. What is the "Goldilocks" setting for hose clamps? The vast majority of failure situations I have had are rust related with just a few being "stripped" sections on the band.

Yeah, but you both have a point. I've stripped out both the cheap kind and the quality kind for the hell of it, just to see what they would take. I'm not going to keep a torque wrench handy, but if the clamp is high quality, I typically tighten it to feel and then back off just a bit. I find the quality clamps stay tighter over time, but it probably represents the lack of stretch vs. the cheapo. I pay particular attention to below waterline AND any hot water line due to the consistent expansion/contraction of the fitting.

 

[HopCar]

Hose clamp manufacturers publish torque recomendations for how tight to make them but I've never seen anyone actually use a torque wrench to install hose clamps.

 

[BelleAurore]

This conversation is compelling me to investigate torque settings (I read somewhere 30-40 inch pounds). I can torque a few then check how this feels with my nut driver. Hopefully my memory muscle will work better than my regular memory...

 

[CPseudonym]

Plumbers use T-handle designed torque wrenches installing No-Hub cast iron waste pipe. 60 inch pounds is the standard. The tool is available anywhere cast iron pipe and fittings are sold, typically plumbing wholesale houses.

Even more popular are nut drivers in a cordless impact driver drill. Standard battery drills with a clutch where used by plumbers on large jobs for this task until discovering that the impact drills could not strip the hose clamps no matter how long you left it on the clamp. Eventually the clamp will cut completely through the rubber but it will not strip.

 

[BelleAurore]

Now this has really helped me. I'm heading to plumbing supply. Over torque is my biggest concern cuz of stripping clamp and cutting hose. I never left a clamp too loose.

 

[psneeld]

Too tight and you are damaging the hose...the clamps themselves are tough to damage as long as you are just using a nut driver/screwdriver....but I have been finding lately a lot of clamps will let the screw back out instead of loosening....even some of the "better clamps"

Because this is such a tough crowd...maybe this will help...

BoatUS on hose clamps

Install ‘em Right: An informal survey of boat owners here at BoatU.S. headquarters on how tight hose clamps should be caused a lot of head scratching. How do you know if your clamps are tight enough without being overtightened? Clamp manufacturers have tables with torque specifications, but how many boaters have an inch/pound torque wrench in their pocket protector? Craig Senovich, an engineer at Tridon, did an informal test for Seaworthy to find out how much torque an average person could muster on a hose clamp. Craig gathered a few co-workers, and using a sophisticated measuring device, invited everyone to crank their hardest on a hose clamp using a nut driver (similar to a screwdriver, but less likely to slip). The average person could produce about 37 inch/pounds (interestingly, using gloves nearly doubled that figure). That number happens to be very close to the specifications for a clamp in the 5/8- to 1 1/2-inch range. Craig then put a 6-inch ratchet on the clamp. Though he easily could have kept turning, he stopped at 381 inch/pounds so he wouldn’t damage the testing equipment. Lesson: Use a screw or nut driver and don’t be afraid to hand-tighten unless you’re built like a linebacker— then you’ll need to use a proper torque wrench.

Most good hose barb/hose connections really don't even need clamps...unless under a lot of pressure...

I know they are a special application....push loks go over 200 psi without clamps. many things in an engine room barely need clamps if the barbs are new, not a lot of pressure or vibration.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Thanks for posting that excerpt Mr. psneeld. I usually give gear clamps about a 1/2 grunt effort which is the torque "value" for my purposes. The odd time, if I happen to have a nut driver in my hands, I will give a "snug up" on clamps. I've never found any thus far that seemed loose enough to give me any concern. Hmmmm.....maybe time to put "Check ALL gear clamps" on my To Do list. Aw Rats!
I absolutely DESPISE using a slot screwdriver on almost anything....The Devil's invention....only good for opening paint/varnish cans.

 

[Delfin]

It doesn't work in all situations because some clamps are located where you have very limited working room, but where you can get the Clamptite tool in position, it seems you you can make a clamp that will certainly outlast the hose its attached to. 316 stainless, even pressure all around, any size you want, works on everything from water lines to high pressure hydraulic - lots of advantages, with the primary disadvantage that it takes 5 times longer to put it on and you need an arc of working room to make it all happen.

ClampTite is the perfect tool for making custom clamps | AKcooltools

 

[timjet]

It doesn't work in all situations because some clamps are located where you have very limited working room, but where you can get the Clamptite tool in position, it seems you you can make a clamp that will certainly outlast the hose its attached to. 316 stainless, even pressure all around, any size you want, works on everything from water lines to high pressure hydraulic - lots of advantages, with the primary disadvantage that it takes 5 times longer to put it on and you need an arc of working room to make it all happen.

ClampTite is the perfect tool for making custom clamps | AKcooltools

Would you damage the hose when you tried to remove the wire clamp?

 

[Delfin]

Would you damage the hose when you tried to remove the wire clamp?

No, you just clip it with a pair of wire cutters, and it's off.

 

[jeffnick]

TORQUE WRENCH FOR HOSE CLAMPS - Amazon.com

 

[healhustler]

TORQUE WRENCH FOR HOSE CLAMPS - Amazon.com

Hey...that's a pretty neat little gadget if it works. I might ask for that as a belated stocking stuffer.

 

[CPseudonym]

Hey...that's a pretty neat little gadget if it works. I might ask for that as a belated stocking stuffer.

It works fine, ask any plumber anywhere with cast iron experience. It is sized for 5/16" nuts(industry standard) and 60 inch pounds torque.

There is another one for a different style called "Husky Bands"
(trade name) that accommodates 3/8" nuts and is set at 70 inch pounds IIRC.

They ratchet and have a distinctive click when value is reached. They are size specific so you can not change sockets.

 

[caltexflanc]

Engine manufacturers will have torque values for most on-engine clamps in their service manuals.

 

[SomeSailor]

It doesn't work in all situations because some clamps are located where you have very limited working room, but where you can get the Clamptite tool in position, it seems you you can make a clamp that will certainly outlast the hose its attached to. 316 stainless, even pressure all around, any size you want, works on everything from water lines to high pressure hydraulic - lots of advantages, with the primary disadvantage that it takes 5 times longer to put it on and you need an arc of working room to make it all happen.

Where it works, it works well. I've had one for the past 5-6 years.