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Old 11-23-2013, 06:22 PM   #1
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Honda eu2000i failure

I have a Honda eu2000i generator that I've used on my boat for the past several years. In 214 hrs of operation, it has always performed flawlessly. Last time I was out fishing, it ran fine on day one, then when I started it on day 2, it ran for 5 seconds after start with a pronounced slapping noise before falling dead silent.

I brought it to a friend's shop since he has experience in small engine repair and the equipment to do it right. Upon opening the case, we immediately found the culprit. A bolt on the connecting rod end sheared, causing the second bolt to bend and the rod end separated from the crankshaft. There was no damage to the case, crank, timing belt, piston or cylinder.

Here's a shot of the connecting rod end sitting in the case. The bolt on the right is the one that sheared, it's other half still in the connecting rod. The bolt on the left had about a 30 degree bend in it.



I found a local small engine repair shop that could get us the connecting rod in town the next day for $56, so we placed the order. After a few speed bumps like a sheared exhaust manifold bolt (bolt drilled out and replaced, hole retapped) and a sheared woodruff key (replaced), the engine was rebuilt and started right up. I'm running it at home now to reseat the rings and then check for leaks.

I learned a lot about the proper reassembly of 4-stroke engines from my buddy. Having a Honda maintenance manual was invaluable. I can't imagine ever doing it right without that information at our fingertips. The toughest part of the job was figuring out and reassembling all the engine shrouds, covers and trim pieces.

Now I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this time it lasts much longer than 200 hrs.
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:22 PM   #2
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Look at how clean that is! I bet it was just a bad bolt. I doubt Honda magnafluxs bolts.
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:50 PM   #3
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We have one of these as our gen set. While we are on the subject, it is wise to have a very small regular screw driver, one of those you pen in your shirt pocket size, stuck near the carburetor. If you are not using the Honda for spells, it warrants draining the carburetor which is located with a clear small plastic hose. With the corn in the gas now, fuel varnishes up in a short time. These small engines systems can not stand any varnish.
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:57 PM   #4
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We have one of these as our gen set. While we are on the subject, it is wise to have a very small regular screw driver, one of those you pen in your shirt pocket size, stuck near the carburetor. If you are not using the Honda for spells, it warrants draining the carburetor which is located with a clear small plastic hose. With the corn in the gas now, fuel varnishes up in a short time. These small engines systems can not stand any varnish.
Al Ketchikan

I always ran mine dry if it was not going to be used for a while.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:11 PM   #5
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Our company has several of the eu2000 units. They are all over 10 years old. I didnt put hour meters on them, but I would guess they get about 150 hrs a year on them. Dead nuts reliable. Just the other day I was remarking to someone else what a great investment they have been.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:05 AM   #6
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Been sitting around thinking a bit. How do you run a 2000 Honda dry? I don't use a fuel shut off,Cause I am not aware of one. I close the choke, turn the elect. switch, open the gas tank cap and pull the cord. When I stop, I turn off the elect switch, close the choke for next time start, and normally leave the gas cap vent open. Hence my offering that to store the unit, drain the carburetor, only takes unscrewing the front cover, loosen the screw inside the plastic drain tube and close, re tighten the front cover and be done. If there is a different method I am for learning the process-
Just asking.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:01 AM   #7
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Al, there are two systems on the Honda that turn it off.

1. Ignition shutoff that happens instantly when the shut off switch is turned off. This is also the system which shuts down the unit if the oil level is too low.

2. A fuel shut off which cuts the carb fuel supply to shut down.

If you open the large access panel, you'll find a small connector which provides power for the electrical shutdown. If you disconnect this connector, it disables the electrical shutdown. Now you can twist the shut off knob and the engine will still run for 2 minutes or so until the fuel is burned out of the carb.

After this, be sure to reconnect the connector so your low oil sensor will continue to operate.

There are youtube videos to demonstrate this.
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:45 AM   #8
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Wow! I have a friend that has run his 2000 on various boats and on his job site for over 10 years with no issues. He recently sold his boat with it and immediately purchased a new one.
I also have one but have no where near the hours that others have but it has been extremely trouble free. It gets used on the boat occasionally and for hurricane power outages.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Been sitting around thinking a bit. How do you run a 2000 Honda dry? I don't use a fuel shut off,Cause I am not aware of one. I close the choke, turn the elect. switch, open the gas tank cap and pull the cord. When I stop, I turn off the elect switch, close the choke for next time start, and normally leave the gas cap vent open. Hence my offering that to store the unit, drain the carburetor, only takes unscrewing the front cover, loosen the screw inside the plastic drain tube and close, re tighten the front cover and be done. If there is a different method I am for learning the process-
Just asking.
Al
We found that ours would run for about 4hrs on a full tank. Coincidently it took about 4hrs to charge the batteries. We would simply let it run til' it ran out of gas. Nothing left in the carb or lines to varnish or phase separate (ethanol). Never had a problem.
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:20 AM   #10
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In case anyone's interested, I have read elsewhere of propane conversions for these... as well as for the Yamaha equivalents...

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Old 11-24-2013, 02:59 PM   #11
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FlyWright- Okay, I found a video:

Now I understand. This is a really a neat trick. I am going to disconnect that connection on my unit and leave it disconnected during the off season like now!
Yes, understand the need to reconnect for low oil pressure reasons and will remain aware.

Al
Thanks for the tip.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:14 PM   #12
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the other option I often use is just pour the gas out of the tank and restart till it shuts down....if you put a heavy load on it (heat gun running) it goes pretty fast.

no disassembly required...
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:37 PM   #13
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the other option I often use is just pour the gas out of the tank and restart till it shuts down....if you put a heavy load on it (heat gun running) it goes pretty fast.

no disassembly required...
That's another option but it can be awkward tipping the 50+ pound generator over and getting all the gas into a gasoline can without spilling some. To access the plug, there's only one screw to loosen to remove the same panel used to check the oil. It's as easy as opening your car hood... takes about 10-15 seconds...not what I'd call disassembly.

One can turn off the eco throttle and the engine immediately revs to high rpm without a load.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:47 PM   #14
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FlyWright- Okay, I found a video:

Thanks for the tip.
Al
That's it, Al. Good video!
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:08 PM   #15
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I have started taking one more step with the larger generator (Kawasaki) we have at home after it was surging upon the last start up. Even though I emptied the large plastic tank and drained the carb bowl. Upon removing the bowl, I still had a build up of varnish at the bottom of the bowl and partially blocking the jet. After I finished with the generator I drained tank and bowl. Then removed bowl and cleaned out small remainder. I think this will help.
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Old 11-24-2013, 05:14 PM   #16
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Would all this good info be equally applicable to the Yahama EF2000iS inverter/generator? Or is that a different kettle of fish altogether?
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Old 11-24-2013, 05:41 PM   #17
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Would all this good info be equally applicable to the Yahama EF2000iS inverter/generator? Or is that a different kettle of fish altogether?
I don't know, John. I've never used a Yamaha, so I can't compare them. I believe all small engines benefit from emptying the carb of fuel. If that's not possible, run it regularly.

My Honda gets used almost all months of the year, but if I expect it to sit for a while, I'll empty the carb as shown in the video above. If it'd just going to be a few weeks, I don't worry about it and have never had a problem with it. OTOH, my Honda outboard carb always gets run dry before hoisting the dinghy aboard. It's impressive how long the engine can run on just that little carb fuel!
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