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Old 03-17-2017, 07:04 AM   #1
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High hour Lehmans

So I hear that Lehmans are very capable of reaching 10-15 thousand hours before a rebuild if they are well maintained. I would like to hear from members that have high hours on their Lehmans and what type of repairs they have made other than normal maintenance.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:27 AM   #2
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Mine just passed 2600 hrs on a rebuild.
repaired alternator and starter (but they could have been used on former engine, though a slight coolant leak is what did in the starter I think)
2 injector pipes have failed.
injectors replaced
oil coolers replaced
heat exchanger hand cleaned.
Various hoses replaced
alternator belt replaced
alternator upgrade this year and bracket bolt broke requiring drilling out
Hregular replacement of water pump impellers

At about 2800 hr this summer

Will pull head to correct a possible head gasket issue, check cylinders.
Possibly rebuild injector pump.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:32 AM   #3
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Mine just passed 2600 hrs on a rebuild.
repaired alternator and starter (but they could have been used on former engine, though a slight coolant leak is what did in the starter I think)
2 injector pipes have failed.
injectors replaced
oil coolers replaced
heat exchanger hand cleaned.
Various hoses replaced
alternator belt replaced
alternator upgrade this year and bracket bolt broke requiring drilling out
Hregular replacement of water pump impellers

At about 2800 hr this summer


Good info. How many hours before the rebuild.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:35 AM   #4
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Have no idea....previous owner with not a clue.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:58 AM   #5
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We rebuilt our FL SP135 last fall with 8400 hours. We had the engine out to replace the fuel tanks. That was the only reason. We added about 1 qt of oil every 200 hours. Oil analysis came back perfect.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:26 AM   #6
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I am at about 4400 hours on the original.
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Old 03-17-2017, 01:55 PM   #7
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Purchased my FL SP135 with 5197 hours very detailed log back to 3853 hours no known rebuild. Currently 6092 hours, no engine repairs needed. Only new parts Alternator and starter and scheduled maintenance. No change in performance.
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:19 PM   #8
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I would think a high hour engine that had'nt overheated and that has good compression on all cylinders should be a good indication that it received good maintenance.

How frequent is the rear cylinder overheating problem? Must not be a frequent occurance as there's not much said about it. But it does come up. Perhaps it happens when an engine sits for long periods.
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:32 PM   #9
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Bleeding the water jacket as per the owner's manual is very important to prevent overheating.
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
...How frequent is the rear cylinder overheating problem? Must not be a frequent occurance as there's not much said about it. But it does come up. Perhaps it happens when an engine sits for long periods.
The issue is/was only with the Dover FL 120s not the Dorset FL 135s.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:10 PM   #11
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About 5000hrs on my two 135's. No issues. Other than normal maintenance items, both Velvet Drives overhauled at 4500-4800 hrs, 1 starter and 1 alternator rebuild. Oil analysis on both engines has been coming back perfect.

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Old 03-17-2017, 07:36 PM   #12
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..Will pull head to correct a possible head gasket issue, check cylinders..
You could try a re-torque of the head studs. We did,I think it helped my old 120s. Mechanic was nervous and researched it first,and torqued to the lower of the range. But, a no no for 135s, according to a previous thread.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:39 PM   #13
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You could try a re-torque of the head studs. We did,I think it helped my old 120s. Mechanic was nervous and researched it first,and torqued to the lower of the range. But, a no no for 135s, according to a previous thread.
Thanks....will debate whether to try that or just bite the bullet when moored for 6 months till next long trip.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:49 PM   #14
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i always understand Lehmans overhaul point is around 8000 hours under good maintenance...
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:04 PM   #15
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Interesting Bruce, I understood that the 135s needed retorqueing at some hourly interval but the 120s didn't? I actually did retorque my 120 cylinder head before I readjusted the valves. My understanding is that stretch bolts do not need retorqueing, they would need to be replaced. I also did not think that Lehmans had stretch bolts...?

My advice to high-time Lehman owners is to follow the owner's manual, complete all of the required maintenance requirements and run the bag off them. They will run fine for a long time and then they blow, although it's rare, even with an overheat (fatal to a Lehman) that it will quit dead and leave you stranded.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:13 PM   #16
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...I understood that the 135s needed retorqueing at some hourly interval but the 120s didn't?...
Do you have any sold info? We have about 100 hours on our rebuild and we were told specifically not to re-torque our 135.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:15 PM   #17
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Interesting Bruce, I understood that the 135s needed retorqueing at some hourly interval but the 120s didn't? I actually did retorque my 120 cylinder head before I readjusted the valves. My understanding is that stretch bolts do not need retorqueing, they would need to be replaced. I also did not think that Lehmans had stretch bolts...?....
.
My nervous mechanic found an instruction to retorque a 120 before valve adjusting, that made us comfortable doing it.
I`m sure there is a thread on this which said never retorque a 135. I`m guessing a stud could snap,that`s no fun. But if you had the head off a 135 you have to retorque. Surely you don`t need to change the studs if you pull a 135 head? Maybe you do.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:40 PM   #18
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Sorry Larry and Bruce, I do not have access to my 120 owner's manual but the GB site does, you could get downloads from them for free.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:51 PM   #19
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We have about 100 hours on our rebuild and we were told specifically not to re-torque our 135.
See post 17 Larry. Don`t do it.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:04 PM   #20
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I have heard it both ways...torque...don't torque.

There are threads that go back with good advice from SkiNC and RickB.

If you don't know what kinds of bolts were used...you just have to roll the dice.

Larry, Bomac should be able to tell you for sure.

The consensus seems to be if you don't know what kind of bolts you have, and no problems, don't retorque. If you do have some kind of problem...like I might...you have some options.

1. Retorque
2. Pull bolts one by one and replace with a known quantity,
3. Pull the whole head, inspect everything, new gasket and used known quantity bolts.

Even American Diesel is a bit back and forth on the subject through the years.
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