Help! Hydrolock!

[cardude01]

Well I've really done it this time. I was reflushing my engine this time with BB, and everything was going fine but I did something stupid and must have filled the water muffler up. When I tired to crank it locked.

I removed the injectors and sure enough there is water in the cylinders. I cranked it over by hand and sucked the water out of each cylinder with a shop vac. Probably still some drops in there.

Now what? Did I destroy it? Should I put some oil or diesel in the cylinder?

The water was in there about an hour before I could get it out. It was actually fresh water.

?

 

[cardude01]

Took the exhaust hose off the mixing elbow to suck the water out of the muffler and found this also. It's still running a bit hot. Well, it's not running at all now actually. ?

 

[cardude01]

Hydrolock. What now?

Well I've really done it this time. I was reflushing my engine this time with BB, and everything was going fine but I did something stupid and must have filled the water muffler up. When I tired to crank it locked.



I removed the injectors and sure enough there is water in the cylinders. I cranked it over by hand and sucked the water out of each cylinder with a shop vac. Probably still some drops in there.



Now what? Did I destroy it? Should I put some oil or diesel in the cylinder?

Do I attempt to reinstall injectors and run it?

Also found a bad exhaust hose when I was sucking the water out of the muffler. Maybe that's causing some of my overheat?

 

[janice142]

Cardude... I'm a big believer in replacing hoses (all of them) when one goes. Or, as with Seaweed, upon purchase. Two of the visually fine hoses on Beast were collapsed inside.

As for the water -- wait. One of the experts will be here soon. (at least it's fresh)

And I'd push fuel through (you do have an electronic fuel pump inline, eh?)

The electronic versions ($50 or less) will also allow you to bleed the injectors painlessly. Fuel will be pulled through by the mechanical pump on your engine -- doesn't hurt a thing, just handy to have.

I'd pump/push fuel though
and dump oil/replace same

And wait for the experts to get here!

A fresh water rinse is a good idea. I will be setting that up on Seaweed soon. It does make a difference in longevity (empirical evidence versus hard data!)

Good luck.

 

[River Cruiser]

Put a little oil in each cylinder and crank it over to spread the oil around the cylinders, put a rag over the injector holes to catch the oil that'll shoot out. Replace the injectors, bleed the fuel system and start the engine run it under load around 1200 rpm for a couple of hours. Have everything you need to drain the oil and when you shut it down drain the crankcase. Change the filter fill with new oil and you should be good to go. Good luck


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[cardude01]

Ok. Thanks.

Is there a special way to bleed the lines at the injectors once I get everything put back together?

Never done this before.

 

[River Cruiser]

I'am not familiar with what injection system Yanmar uses, if it's a Nippon Denso like my Hino it most likely has a manual pump. Crack the nuts on the high pressure lines at the injectors and operate the pump, when you get fuel thru a line tighten that nut, do this till all injectors have fuel and all nuts tight. With a little cranking it should fire up.


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[what_barnacles]

spray (or pour) some seafoam (or oil) into the cylinders that flooded, drench them. The last thing you want is rust in the cylinders.

drench them in the sense of flooding them as you spin the motor over. Get everything coated with oil until you can fire it all back up.

 

[cardude01]

Got it back together and it running for now. Guess I didn't kill it?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. cd. If she's running now, you'll be fine. Just keep an eye on the oil for milkiness. I would be VERY surprised if you did any damage at all.

 

[cardude01]

Thanks RT!

I will change the oil. It doesn't look milky but when I turned it over with the injectors out it sprayed water everywhere and got on top of the head.

The silver lining with all this flailing around is I think I might have found the problem with my overheat at higher RPM.

I took the exhaust hose off to suck all the water out of the muffler and found this. Hose is collapsed inside. Won't that cause an overheat?

 

[Deckape]

engine hose

Yep that will doit,water can't get out ,so it backs up into the head .,into the cyninders. If you have a lift muffler , close sea cock when turning over engine and you don't want to start it, so you are not filling the muffler with water as it needs exhaust to pump water out . If engine doesn't turn over quickly or is hard starting this can happen. Put some marvel mystery oil in the oil to help with the moisture after a couple of oil/filter changes. Good luck.

 

[RT Firefly]

Yup.

 

[River Cruiser]

I worked with a mechanic who lost a eye while cranking over a Cat while looking down a injector hole. The precup seal had failed and coolant leaked into the cylinder, the coolant squirted out with enough pressure to destroy his eyeball. Always be careful cranking a engine after putting oil in cylinders, I cover them with shop towels.


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[healhustler]

Cardude, except for myself, you've got the darndest learning curve I ever saw. Keep going and you'll out grow us all. For what it's worth, water injection does have its place in diesel performance, but that's in tractor-pulling, not boating.

 

[cardude01]

I worked with a mechanic who lost a eye while cranking over a Cat while looking down a injector hole. The precup seal had failed and coolant leaked into the cylinder, the coolant squirted out with enough pressure to destroy his eyeball. Always be careful cranking a engine after putting oil in cylinders, I cover them with shop towels.


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Yikes!

When I first spun it over after pulling the injectors water absolutely shot everywhere. I was really surprised how aggressively it came out. Drenched my little engine compartment. On the ceiling. Everywhere. I was glad I got the water out, but damn. ?

After putting the oil in I did learn to put a rag over the hole before cranking.

 

[cardude01]

Cardude, except for myself, you've got the darndest learning curve I ever saw. Keep going and you'll out learn us all. For what it's worth, us old tractor-pullers use water-injection on purpose. Quite possibly, the first time may have been by accident.

Sigh. Yes. Steep learning curve. Seems more like a vertical line than a sloping curve to me.

I guess I am learning, but I sure tend to screw up quite a bit in the process.

I remember water injection back in the old days on gas engines to try to stop detonation.

I sure hope no water got into the turbo. Wouldn't that possibly wreck the bearings?

 

[sunchaser]

CD

Why were you doing BB flush in the first place?

 

[cardude01]

CD

Why were you doing BB flush in the first place?

Well, what happened was......

I've been having some nagging overheating issues over about 2400 RPM. Did a Rydlyme flush a few weeks back and got lots of crud out. The temps seemed better when I first ran it but then they started creeping up again the next time I ran it. So I'm like, WTF???

I bought the BB mainly to do the genny and AC flush, but didn't get much out of those so figured I would run it through the main also since the solution was still "active" and I thought maybe BB would get something the Rydlyme didn't. I didn't get much fizzing action at all with the BB so I said the hell with it.

Now I did the Rydlyme flush with no problem a few weeks ago, but I guess I was distracted today. After I was done flushing with the BB I flushed the engine out with fresh water, but for some reason I had hooked the exhaust elbow loop of my "bilge pump bucket system" flush back to the elbow, turned the pump on, and basically filled the entire exhaust with water. It was just a total bonehead move on my part, and I can't even blame it on drinking beer this time. It didn't dawn on me what I had done until I tried to start the main and it was locked up.

Took me about 5 hours to get the water out and running again.

However, the silver lining is I found a collapsed exhaust hose near the exhaust elbow, so maybe that's been part of my nagging overheat problem. I'm hoping so anyway. Need to get some exhaust hose now and see what else I can screw up.

 

[Wxx3]

thanks for sharing.

Looks like from beginning to end, it only cost you a few hours. Would have taken me weeks as I dithered around.

But the lesson here is also why do things the engine wasn't meant to do, like flushing it. You are just increasing the chance of having something bad happen as you found out.

 

[FlyWright]

Glad you found and are rectifying the problem with the hose, CD. Close call! We've all done bonehead moves in the process of learning...well, at least. I have. It's the recovery and lessons learned that count most.

I suspect with that exhaust hose restriction, you might have had a backup of water pressure that filled your ex manifold and sent the BB mix directly into the cylinders. Under engine operation, the exhaust gas and water pressure overcame the restriction to keep the cylinders clear. Without the engine running, there was no resistance to the reverse flow.

 

[cardude01]

Glad you found and are rectifying the problem with the hose, CD. Close call! We've all done bonehead moves in the process of learning...well, at least. I have. It's the recovery and lessons learned that count most.

I suspect with that exhaust hose restriction, you might have had a backup of water pressure that filled your ex manifold and sent the BB mix directly into the cylinders. Under engine operation, the exhaust gas and water pressure overcame the restriction to keep the cylinders clear. Without the engine running, there was no resistance to the reverse flow.

That makes sense.

These exhaust hoses are a bitch to get on! It's only about a 2' section and it has a slight S bend to it. Finally got it on there but it wasn't all the way up on the exhaust elbow, but I clamped it and crossed my fingers. Started it up and of course it's dripping.

Trying to figure out how to get the hose to bend like an S. ?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. 01. "Trying to figure out how to get the hose to bend like an S." How about putting in a couple of elbows. You could do most of your fighting on the bench then your finals on the engine...

 

[cardude01]

I'm trying to bend an S with a hair dryer and some tension using a line now. It's getting better but not sure it will bend enough.

I might have to resort to the elbow method. Probably needs to be some special elbow material right?

Sheesh...

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. 01. With all due respect, I don't think you're going to get too far with a hair dryer. Even a Head Mistress heavy duty, industrial, blow the roof off a barn model. I suspect this exhaust hose is after the water cooling injection point in which case, a fiberglass elbow should work just fine.
Exhaust Fittings | Fiberglass | Marine | Basic Power

 

[what_barnacles]

mine has a fiberglass 45 degree elbow. 18" of hose from the manifold/elbow then the fiberglass elbow, and another 3 or 4 feet of hose to the muffler.

 

[LarryM]

CD,

In a situation like yours, Trident 252V Series Blue Corra-Sil Marine Wet Exhaust Hose is my favorite solution. It is very flexible, has a very high temperature rating, but it is crazy expensive! Use high quality SS T-bolt clamps and you will never have to worry about it again. The added flexibility helps to isolate that bouncing Yanmar from the muffler too.

IMO adding additional couplers and clamps just increases complication and potential points of failure.

 

[janice142]

I'm trying to bend an S with a hair dryer and some tension using a line now. It's getting better but not sure it will bend enough.

I might have to resort to the elbow method. Probably needs to be some special elbow material right?

Another Idea: put your exhaust hose outside and let the sun help you. It will get h-o-t even just sitting on a seawall. Then (don't burn yourself) try shoving it on. I've seen that work with large diameter exhaust hoses.

 

[cardude01]

I finally got it warm enough to bend. Took forever. Put some T bolt clamps on it. No leaks. I'm beat.

Boating is hard...

 

[cardude01]

CD,

In a situation like yours, Trident 252V Series Blue Corra-Sil Marine Wet Exhaust Hose is my favorite solution. It is very flexible, has a very high temperature rating, but it is crazy expensive! Use high quality SS T-bolt clamps and you will never have to worry about it again. The added flexibility helps to isolate that bouncing Yanmar from the muffler too.

IMO adding additional couplers and clamps just increases complication and potential points of failure.

I would have gladly paid for that flexible hose but it wasn't available around here.