Help!

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Tolly40

Tolly40

Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Salpare Bay Marina
Vessel Name
Jadoo Shikari (Mystery Hunter)
Vessel Make
Tollycraft Tri-Cabin 40
We own a Tollycraft with twin 454 Crusader engines (330hp). Recently we started having problems with our starboard engine. It starts and runs fine...until we put it in gear under load; then it doesn't want to run. We suspected a fuel issue and replaced all of the following: fuel, fuel line, fuel pump, all filters, and carburetor. It still wants to die under load. We also replaced the points, condenser and rotor in the distributor. I dove under the boat, thinking the propeller shaft bearings were hanging up, but the propeller spins freely. We are very frustrated as to why this is happening and are open to any suggestions. Thank you!
 
Sounds like a fuel restriction. Could be a deteriorated rubber fuel line that the inside is collapsing. Do your engines feed fuel from a common feed or each off a different tank? Could also be trash in the tank getting sucked up against the filter screen at the connector. Just my thoughts. I spent some time running down a similar problem of 454 Crusaders.
 
Weak fuel pump.
 
It sounds like a fuel issue, but it sounds as if you've addressed most components there.
What about the fuel shut off solenoid valve. Is it fully opening?
 
Todd - the only part of the fuel system you haven't addressed that I think might constrict supply is the tank's vent line. If that were plugged could it cause the problem? I don't think so, but worth checking...
 
there may be a screen/filter in the pickup fuel line in your tank....maybe check that
Kevin G
 
Tolly40 said:
We own a Tollycraft with twin 454 Crusader engines (330hp). Recently we started having problems with our starboard engine. It starts and runs fine...until we put it in gear under load; then it doesn't want to run. We suspected a fuel issue and replaced all of the following: fuel, fuel line, fuel pump, all filters, and carburetor. It still wants to die under load. We also replaced the points, condenser and rotor in the distributor. I dove under the boat, thinking the propeller shaft bearings were hanging up, but the propeller spins freely. We are very frustrated as to why this is happening and are open to any suggestions. Thank you!
Click to expand...

try changing the spark plugs,they might be crabbing out under a load????
 
Ignition dwell and timing at spec?
How SOON after putting in gear does it die?
Does it just shut off like you turned off the key or slow down and sputter to a stop?
Any black smoke at the exhaust?
The good news is just about any competent marine mechanic can diagnose an old school 454 fairly quickly.
 
Get rid of points and install electronic ignition....you'll love it.

Conall
 
I have a 1978 Chev Big 10 Silverado truck with a 454 and Rochester 4 barrel Carb - opps, no help for a Crusader - which I also had in an old Chris Craft 26'. But I would go with the electronic ignition, all the way :)
 
Points to electronic is a pretty low cost upgrade with some kits able to modify the distributor. I'd install a new distributor as an old distributor has enough slop in it to cause one grief. A few thousandths here and a few thousandths there, is where the gremlin lurks....the devils in the detail.

I installed Mallory equipment on my 1977 Carver and was hands down the best upgrade I did on that engine. Once you go electronic, you can darn near take ignition out of the problem solving equation.

Conall
 
A fuel constriction sounds like the most reasonable explanation -- as distributor problems won't necessarily be restricted to whether the engine is under load. When the engine is under load, it uses more fuel, thus being more subject to failing if there was a fuel flow restriction.

The screen strainer at the fuel pick-up might be your culprit. You need to identify and eliminate sources of constriction systematically to trace the problem. As for the strainer in the tank, one thing you can do is run a line from a small tank (make sure it is approved for marine use) and connect it to the fuel intake port. Start your engine, place it in gear, and slowly increase throttle. You can most likely do this in your slip as long as your boat is well secured with dock lines and that your dock and cleats are in good shape.

If that doesn't eliminate the problem, look for any in-line strainers that might exist between your fuel tank and the fuel intake port. While it is not a normal practice for Crusader to supply or install these, they could have been placed there by the previous owner.

Also, check your fuel/water separator (if you have one). If there is water in there, it could cause a flow restriction.

Hope this helps.
 
Boy does this sound familiar. Back in the late 80's I had a boat with twin mercruiser 228s. I could start the motors and as soon as I tried to give it the gas from idle one would die. Pulled my hair out. After all the fiddling with every piece of the fuel and Ignition circuits I finally started with the basics. What do you need to make an engine run. Pulled off all the wire and put back only what the engine needed to run. Guess what, it ran perfect. After replacing all the wiring and then checking each wire as I put them back on found a grounded tach lead. My hair has grown back now and I hope this helps you with your problem. Start with the basics. Larry
 
Are you telling me that a grounded tach wire turned out to be the culprit?

RSVP ASAP!

Thank you - Todd
 
When I started putting everything back after getting it to run the tach lead was either shorted or bad. Let me regress here for a bit. The engines were in my 38' 1956 Chesapeake Deadrise. I had put in 2 complete 228 mercruisers, used take outs, and all I had hooked up were oil pressure and temp gauges. No tachs, but all the wire for them were there. My port tach wire was shorted somewhere in the harness. Try removing the wire, it's usually an extra wire on the coil, for the tach and run the engine see what happens. Mine was between the coil and the plug for the wiring harness that goes into your dash. I hope you find it because I sure pulled my hair out finding it.Larry
 
Last edited:
A bad tach or grounded tach lead can definitely screw one of these things up.

Describe in detail what the engine does when you go from idle, put in gear, then slowly advance throttle.
 
Ski in NC said:
A bad tach or grounded tach lead can definitely screw one of these things up.

Describe in detail what the engine does when you go from idle, put in gear, then slowly advance throttle.
Click to expand...
It runs great in idle. I put it in gear and it hooks up perfectly. Then I slowly increase the throttle. It barely gets up to 1800 RPM (if that) and wants to die. I try feathering the throttle, which staves off the dying for a second or two, but then she dies. I can start it right back up almost immediately; but then it just repeats this behavior. Last time we had it out, after dying about a dozen times, we could not get it to start at all and had to be towed back in.
 
Yes! It starts right up and runs beautifully in neutral. I can run it up and back from idle to 4,000 RPM with no sign of trouble. It only misbehaves in gear.
 
As I stated, we replaced 18' of marine grade fuel line (tank to valves...valves to engine) thinking the line was bad. I have heard the theory of trash getting sucked up against the fuel pick up too. If so, what can one do about that?
 
We replaced the mechanical pump with a new electric pump (blocking off the old pump mount).
 
Check for strength of spark coming out of coil tower while cranking. Or with engine idling, pull coil wire out of coil tower and see how far it can jump before engine stalls. Spark should jump at least 3/8" and engine still idle fine.

Focusing on spark right now as cylinder pressure goes up (add throttle) it requires more volts to jump the gap at the plugs. Weak spark will easily cause it to die under load.

Could still be fuel, but checking spark is cheap and easy. Just don't get bit!!!
 
AusCan said:
It sounds like a fuel issue, but it sounds as if you've addressed most components there.
What about the fuel shut off solenoid valve. Is it fully opening?
Click to expand...
I am not familiar with that. Where would I find that? We do have manual valves for switching between tanks. But this sounds different.
 
Moonfish said:
Todd - the only part of the fuel system you haven't addressed that I think might constrict supply is the tank's vent line. If that were plugged could it cause the problem? I don't think so, but worth checking...
Click to expand...
How do I check that? Someone suggested trying to run with the gas cap open (which would then act like a vent). It appears we have two vents for each saddle tank; which can be unscrewed from the outside of the hull. Should I do that? I certainly don't want any "blockage to fall back into the tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

RLKramer
Sluggish outboard starting up
Replies
1
Views
390
SteveK
SteveK
Pau Hana
Generator woes- low compression across all cylinders
Replies
23
Views
3K
Symphony
Symphony
P
FL135 question
Replies
6
Views
490
BruceK
BruceK
LeoKa
Perkins 3.1 delayed start
Replies
6
Views
514
TowLou
TowLou
J
Singing prop? Cutless bearing?
Replies
8
Views
980
lwarden
lwarden

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom