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Old 08-13-2014, 09:01 PM   #21
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When I started putting everything back after getting it to run the tach lead was either shorted or bad. Let me regress here for a bit. The engines were in my 38' 1956 Chesapeake Deadrise. I had put in 2 complete 228 mercruisers, used take outs, and all I had hooked up were oil pressure and temp gauges. No tachs, but all the wire for them were there. My port tach wire was shorted somewhere in the harness. Try removing the wire, it's usually an extra wire on the coil, for the tach and run the engine see what happens. Mine was between the coil and the plug for the wiring harness that goes into your dash. I hope you find it because I sure pulled my hair out finding it.Larry
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:02 PM   #22
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A bad tach or grounded tach lead can definitely screw one of these things up.

Describe in detail what the engine does when you go from idle, put in gear, then slowly advance throttle.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
A bad tach or grounded tach lead can definitely screw one of these things up.

Describe in detail what the engine does when you go from idle, put in gear, then slowly advance throttle.
It runs great in idle. I put it in gear and it hooks up perfectly. Then I slowly increase the throttle. It barely gets up to 1800 RPM (if that) and wants to die. I try feathering the throttle, which staves off the dying for a second or two, but then she dies. I can start it right back up almost immediately; but then it just repeats this behavior. Last time we had it out, after dying about a dozen times, we could not get it to start at all and had to be towed back in.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:44 PM   #24
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Yes! It starts right up and runs beautifully in neutral. I can run it up and back from idle to 4,000 RPM with no sign of trouble. It only misbehaves in gear.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:48 PM   #25
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As I stated, we replaced 18' of marine grade fuel line (tank to valves...valves to engine) thinking the line was bad. I have heard the theory of trash getting sucked up against the fuel pick up too. If so, what can one do about that?
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:49 PM   #26
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We replaced the mechanical pump with a new electric pump (blocking off the old pump mount).
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:51 PM   #27
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Check for strength of spark coming out of coil tower while cranking. Or with engine idling, pull coil wire out of coil tower and see how far it can jump before engine stalls. Spark should jump at least 3/8" and engine still idle fine.

Focusing on spark right now as cylinder pressure goes up (add throttle) it requires more volts to jump the gap at the plugs. Weak spark will easily cause it to die under load.

Could still be fuel, but checking spark is cheap and easy. Just don't get bit!!!
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusCan View Post
It sounds like a fuel issue, but it sounds as if you've addressed most components there.
What about the fuel shut off solenoid valve. Is it fully opening?
I am not familiar with that. Where would I find that? We do have manual valves for switching between tanks. But this sounds different.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:00 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonfish View Post
Todd - the only part of the fuel system you haven't addressed that I think might constrict supply is the tank's vent line. If that were plugged could it cause the problem? I don't think so, but worth checking...
How do I check that? Someone suggested trying to run with the gas cap open (which would then act like a vent). It appears we have two vents for each saddle tank; which can be unscrewed from the outside of the hull. Should I do that? I certainly don't want any "blockage to fall back into the tank.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:01 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by KEVMAR View Post
there may be a screen/filter in the pickup fuel line in your tank....maybe check that
Kevin G
Thank Kevin. How would I access that?
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:02 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by capt jerry View Post
try changing the spark plugs,they might be crabbing out under a load????
That would be a cheap fix if that is the problem. I will change them this weekend. Thank you!
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:25 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
Check for strength of spark coming out of coil tower while cranking. Or with engine idling, pull coil wire out of coil tower and see how far it can jump before engine stalls. Spark should jump at least 3/8" and engine still idle fine.

Focusing on spark right now as cylinder pressure goes up (add throttle) it requires more volts to jump the gap at the plugs. Weak spark will easily cause it to die under load.

Could still be fuel, but checking spark is cheap and easy. Just don't get bit!!!
It is beginning to sound like it may be an electrical issue. #1 Change Plugs #2 Replace coil #3 replace sparkplug wires? Sound reasonable?
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conall63 View Post
Get rid of points and install electronic ignition....you'll love it.

Conall
Are you referring to an MSD distributor?
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astral Blue View Post
A fuel constriction sounds like the most reasonable explanation -- as distributor problems won't necessarily be restricted to whether the engine is under load. When the engine is under load, it uses more fuel, thus being more subject to failing if there was a fuel flow restriction.

The screen strainer at the fuel pick-up might be your culprit. You need to identify and eliminate sources of constriction systematically to trace the problem. As for the strainer in the tank, one thing you can do is run a line from a small tank (make sure it is approved for marine use) and connect it to the fuel intake port. Start your engine, place it in gear, and slowly increase throttle. You can most likely do this in your slip as long as your boat is well secured with dock lines and that your dock and cleats are in good shape.

If that doesn't eliminate the problem, look for any in-line strainers that might exist between your fuel tank and the fuel intake port. While it is not a normal practice for Crusader to supply or install these, they could have been placed there by the previous owner.

Also, check your fuel/water separator (if you have one). If there is water in there, it could cause a flow restriction.

Hope this helps.
Thank you for your advice. I like the idea of drawing from an auxiliary tank to eliminate the fuel pick up screen in the tank.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:50 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tolly40 View Post
It is beginning to sound like it may be an electrical issue. #1 Change Plugs #2 Replace coil #3 replace sparkplug wires? Sound reasonable?
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Are you referring to an MSD distributor?
Plugs,plug wires,points/condenser,distributor cap,ignition rotor under distributor cap,and then coil if that doesn't make a difference.You can free rev to 4000rpm isn't a sign of a dead or dying coil.

Pertronix makes a kit that replaces points.Depending on the kit,you may have to remove the distributor.Either way,the ignition timing will need to be tuned to get the most of upgrade.I have done Pertronix kits on some sterndrive boats,cars,and trucks.They are extremely good and maintenance free once installed.I noticed a slight increase in fuel economy and all of my ignition parts lasted a little longer too.

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Old 08-13-2014, 10:53 PM   #36
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Another thing,has the valve lash been checked and adjusted?I had an old Honda motorcycle that acted in a similar way and it turned out to be a couple of the valves were out of adjustment.Maybe the lifters have bleed down if it has hydraulic lifters.I know this is grasping at straws but it's all I can do without having my hands on the engine.
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:11 PM   #37
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Somewhere near the tank there should be an anti siphon device. it is a check valve with a spring behind the check ball. It prevents the tank from siphoning itself into the bilge in the event of a leak. they do go bad sometimes. they shut off the fuel supply unless there is adequate suction crated by the fuel pump. it could be restricting fuel flow to a trickle.
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Old 08-14-2014, 02:04 PM   #38
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I remember reading this on the Tollycraft Classified site Tolly Classified - Special Information

Quote:
Poor Engine Performance - If your Tollycraft is having poor engine performance it might be a good idea to check out the following: From as early as 1970 and as late as 1986, the fuel pick up tube had a small screen at the end . (See photo #1) It is possible for this screen to become plugged with contaminates in the fuel and cause poor engine performance or even shut down the engine.
Photo #1


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We have heard of some cases where a motor is running well and suddenly looses power and in some cases stops only to be restarted an hour or so later and run fine. This could be caused by the contaminates being washed away from the screen by the motion of the fuel in the tank. It is possible a competent mechanic could misread the engine symptoms as a bad carburetor, bad spark plugs or even bad fuel. To alleviate the problem simply remove the screen. (See photo #2) Most Tollys do not have a provision for removing the fuel pick up tube. If you suspect this could be a problem with your vessel, we suggest you take it to a competent repair yard or marine mechanic.
Photo #2



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Old 08-14-2014, 04:14 PM   #39
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If it was me, before I started to tear into the ignition system, I too would hook up an external gas tank, say like a 6 gal outboard tank, and see how the engine behaves running on that.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:21 PM   #40
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I believe there may also be a screen at the fuel line connection point on the carburetor. Something to check.
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