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Old 09-26-2015, 01:07 PM   #21
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If I'm following all this correctly, you have an EXHAUST overheat alarm, so the problem is presumably there and you can ignore all the ENGINE overheating suggestions of corrective action.

If you replaced the exhaust elbow, then its probably not a blockage.

But it also sounds like you have not touched the exhaust temp sensor, and that is the most likely culprit at this point. Your bypass test was for the pressure sensor (not sure which one), not the temp sensor. I would replace the temp sensor and re-test.
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:46 PM   #22
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If it were me, I would remove the wires from the exhaust temperature switch, jumper them together, and run the unit loaded while monitoring the exhaust riser temperature and hose with an infrared thermometer to prove or disprove the temperature switch is causing the shutdown. I'm making an assumption that it actually is a switch and not a variable resistor (analog) sensor. A schematic drawing will tell.
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Old 09-26-2015, 04:37 PM   #23
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I have a high exhaust temp switch ordered as a last resort (probably should have been at top of the list) and will replace that next time I'm at the boat. It's the most difficult item to get to of course.
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Old 09-26-2015, 04:52 PM   #24
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GentlePeople,
Some semantic clarification if I may.

It seems the works sensor and thermostat are used to mean the same thing.
They are not.

A sensor does just that it "senses" ie Volts, Ohms, degrees, PSI, or other Analogs and are not readily bypassed unless you know how it "senses." (Voltage, current, resistance etc.)

A thermostat or alarm input contact is a two position, Binary device. Open, closed, alarm, normal, high, low etc. These devices are easily bypassed, jumpered or lifted from the circuit.

Be careful they may have 120 VAC on them. With a Volt meter on AC measuring across the contact if you read zero volts the contact is closed. It may or may not be in alarm depending on the control panel or input panel.

28 Year controls person.
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