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Old 04-25-2016, 01:57 PM   #21
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As an aside to this (hijack?) I just helped my BIL change oil and filters in his NEW motorhome. It has a 6.7 liter Cummins electronic diesel engine. The engine manual stated "fill the fuel filter with clean diesel OR OIL". So, my suggestion, on numerous occasions, to fill the fuel filter with new ATF seems plausible. Even if you've never heard of anyone doing that. The main thing is that it is CLEAN.
yeah.... likely it would work out just fine but it would make me nervous. On my Cummins, supposedly it is self priming. The procedure is to key on the engine for 30 seconds, and then off. Repeat this 5 times and the new filter should be filled and bled. I will know once I actually try it out.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:06 PM   #22
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The Genset has a primary that is a Racor with a spin on cartridge. Not sure of the size but it is likely a 220 with a metal rather than plastic bottom. It has a drain plug at the bottom. I will have to look to see if it has any type of a bleed screw on the top. I think the fuel level in the tank is higher than the top of the filter, so it may gravity fill as long as my fuel level in the tank is high enough.

I think they are a lower than the fuel level in the tanks as well. If I open the fuel supply line with the T handle cracked a bit, will those filters fill with gravity?

One silly question for y'all. When you drain a little fuel out of the bottom of your primary fuel filter to check for water or debris, what do you do with that nasty bit of diesel that is now sitting in your cup or bottle?
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I believe most of these types have bleeder - look for a plug w/ a screw driver slot & o-ring (Pic)
Also if it's a 220 I believe these have a priming pump built in -
see the 220/225 diagram or the 250 photo (note bleeder is removed) which I believe is similar to the 220/225

mine doesn't but mine gravity fills reasonably well same w/ the 500T / 900T as you mentioned - I loosen T - crack the inlet valve & fill via gravity... pretty easy & neat once you get the routine figured out for your situation

I usually use the drained diesel to start a campfire at our marina / park - alternate is to take home & add to the waste oil container I give to my local garage for winter heating

As others have mentioned just be cautious w/ self priming when cranking - keep it short or close cooling water inlet while purging / cranking.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:23 PM   #23
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Dhays, look in your engine service manual and let me know what it says about filling the primary (first in the line the tank) just for my info, as I dont have one available to me. The primary on my BILs motorhome was a Racor filter. Thanks
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:42 PM   #24
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Dhays, look in your engine service manual and let me know what it says about filling the primary (first in the line the tank) just for my info, as I dont have one available to me. The primary on my BILs motorhome was a Racor filter. Thanks
The service manual for the genset doesn't say anything about the primary. The service manual for the cummins main says NOT to prefill any of the filters.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:44 PM   #25
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Don, I will have to look closely. I didn't crawl into that corner this last weekend. I believe there is a screw on the top, but I don't think there is a pump. It would be nice if there was.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:55 PM   #26
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One silly question for y'all. When you drain a little fuel out of the bottom of your primary fuel filter to check for water or debris, what do you do with that nasty bit of diesel that is now sitting in your cup or bottle?
Not silly at all. I keep a 2L bottle in the ER for that purpose. When full (takes a while) I return the contents to the earth , from whence they came. The drainage is initially collected in a white cardboard type disposable coffee cup, so I can see what I drained, then poured into the 2L bottle. Hold the bottle to the light and check for water.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:59 PM   #27
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Changing the Racors on the dual filter set-up I have, I check bowl for water or crud, so far after 2 years nothing but fuel in there. I take lid off filter to be changed, pull out filter slowly, insert new, change gasket spin top back on. Lever on filters is on non changed filter. I then start engine, idle up to 800-900 rpm, then switch to just changed filter, if engine stumbles or loses rpm the I quickly change lever to other filter. After a few times all is good. Filter on front of engine, I spin off old spin on new, lubed o-ring. I either loosen bleeder plug or leave filter loose. I have someone on bridge turn on key, wait for pump to fill filter and start to dibble out, have them shut off key, tighten bleeder or filter, then restart, and check for leaks. I can fill Racors with my transfer pump, but as yet have not needed to.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:28 PM   #28
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Changing the Racors on the dual filter set-up I have, I check bowl for water or crud, so far after 2 years nothing but fuel in there. I take lid off filter to be changed, pull out filter slowly, insert new, change gasket spin top back on. Lever on filters is on non changed filter. I then start engine, idle up to 800-900 rpm, then switch to just changed filter, if engine stumbles or loses rpm the I quickly change lever to other filter. After a few times all is good. Filter on front of engine, I spin off old spin on new, lubed o-ring. I either loosen bleeder plug or leave filter loose. I have someone on bridge turn on key, wait for pump to fill filter and start to dibble out, have them shut off key, tighten bleeder or filter, then restart, and check for leaks. I can fill Racors with my transfer pump, but as yet have not needed to.
Thanks. Time to find a sturdy bottle for dirty diesel. I don't recall which engine you have in Rogue. Is it the QSB?
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:43 PM   #29
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Qsb

QSB 330hp w/ electronic Morse controls and 6 kw Northern Lights genset.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:04 PM   #30
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QSB 330hp w/ electronic Morse controls and 6 kw Northern Lights genset.
Same as me then. I just have the 380hp version of that engine. Same engine, different ECU.
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:38 PM   #31
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I fill my fuel filters with Lucas injector cleaner. Does a quick cleanup on the injectors and doesn't have the odor of diesel fuel. It is a bit spendy tho.
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:57 PM   #32
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Not a bad idea Deano. I've seen mechs use Seafoam, its also kinda spendy. But,,, either would be more likely to be CLEAN if poured from a new bottle than diesel from any source. The thing is, when you put the diesel into the filter some of the unfiltered fuel goes straight to the injectors and fuel pump. It may never cause a problem. In the few hundred (havent kept count, WAG) times that I've used ATF it has never caused a problem.
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