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Old 09-07-2013, 01:09 PM   #21
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Good point, I have pulled and opened all the compartments. I have founds some strange things. Still have to pull a few more drawers and look around. Haven't found any gas cans yet. The earlier Tollys had engines in the back. The 81 and up Tollys had them strait under the cabin floor. Not in the cockpit. I am not sure why they moved them. Maybe to get away from the v drive platform and move to a straight? I am going to seal the floor better though -

All great suggestions. By the time I am done with the tank repair, minor here and there repairs (that I want the shop to do) and the gel coat repair I'll be well over $10k on that bill.....welcome to boating!
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:43 PM   #22
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B reak O ut A nother T housand
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Old 09-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #23
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B reak O ut A nother T housand
I think they should change the name to BOMT....Break Out Many Thousands!!!!.....BOAT is so outdated!!!
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:30 PM   #24
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Greetings,
Mr. b. Just for fun, hold off on sealing the floor until all the other work is done. IF the gas smell is still there, you've got more work ahead of you (I suspect it won't be there but...). No sense eliminating a known "telltale" (smell of gas through the hatch) just in case.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:10 PM   #25
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BTW - As has been eluded in posts on this and in other threads... "The Nose Knows!

As long as your olfactory nerves and sences are working well... There is no other "Gasoline Fume" detector better than your nose. IMHO

So - Here is how I handle things re gas fumes in my bilge compartment, i.e. engine and fuel tank areas:

1. Run blower ten minutes before starting engines or activating any other ignition source in bilge... that includes even within just a couple hours shut down after running engines

2. As blower begins running place nose near an air-exit vent on boat's side and carefully smell for fumes... My Tolly makes that simple due to vent locations

3. When filling tanks always open at least one engine hatch during fill up and after filling bend deeply into engine compartment for a deep breath. Then close hatch and turn on blower for appropriate length of time.

I believe that if you keep all items for gasoline storage, transfer, and burn in engines in good shape... and... by adhering to #'s 1-3 safety measures that the chances for explosion are virtually eliminated.

Of course a real good vapor detector (if per chance a sudden, unexpected big gas leak happens while underway) is also a very good item to have ready and waiting for warning actions.

Happy Tollycraft Boating Daze!
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:49 PM   #26
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No vapor detector. I am also thinking that the floor boards literately on top of the engines are allowing those vapors from the carbs to enter the cabin as there is some sloppy boards there. Maybe some weather striping of some type to better seal the engine room access boards? The just sit against the floor grid with carpet wrapped around. Some thin weather stripping on all the surfaces should better seal that. I am thinking there is some additional work I can do to the floor boards to better seal them from the cabin.
If there are gasoline fumes in the bilge/ER reaching the cabin above, you surely want to know. Additional sealing may hide their presence compromising safety. Follow your intention to find and fix the source, and fit a detector.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:56 PM   #27
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Mr. K Post #24...
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:39 PM   #28
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Mr. K Post #24...
Indeed, great minds etc, no idea how I missed yours before posting.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:54 PM   #29
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I hope there is no miss understanding, all lines, and both tanks will be replaced as well as an active fume detector will be installed. No chances with my life or my loved ones. I am just thinking of better sealing the ER from cabin.
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:08 AM   #30
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Buying a project boat will lead to the unforeseen appearing time and time again. As previously suggested once all the tanks and engine gear are removed you will have a great opportunity to make it right, especially the potentially gas saturated ER wood which is abundant on Tollies. What material were the old tanks and what for new again?

Yesterday I was on a very nice 1989 Tolly 40 sport fisher. DD 400 hp 6 53s with no smell, major oil drips or fuel leaks. The PO was very careful and attentive. But it will need new engines in a few years too, at a lot more cost than the gassers you will put in.

Many good boats have V drives, just be sure those have been gone through too. Enjoy, many of us have been in your shoes wondering what we got into with this old boat.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:40 AM   #31
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Lube oil in gas engines tends to have that sweet sickly fume smell to it also. I don't know what it is about gas fumes and exhaust that is different than diesel but I can tolerate the diesel odors much better.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:59 AM   #32
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As long as you are into this project you may wish to review your engine/fuel compartment ventilation system. Hard to believe but more than half the gasoline fueled powerboats I survey (including many at the Toronto Boat Show every year) Have fresh air intake ducts connected to the same plenums as blower output ducts !

Take a look at Safe Gasoline Engine Compartment Ventilation
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:44 AM   #33
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One thing about gas smell,once your leak is repaired. Small amounts of chlorine in water will take the gas smell out. Gas has an odor that lingers even though the gas is gone. Chlorine oxidizes the smell. It works wonders

I filled my bilge with water an added a pint of chlorine. Let it set for an hour washed it out and the smell is gone
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:48 AM   #34
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Lube oil in gas engines tends to have that sweet sickly fume smell to it also. I don't know what it is about gas fumes and exhaust that is different than diesel but I can tolerate the diesel odors much better.
Humph

Over decades...Having closely looked at for personal survey, been aboard, and owned plenty of boats, gas and diesel... I've found that it is not the type of fuel but rather the condition and cleanliness of engines, fuel tanks, bilge areas, and fuel transfer systems that connote whether a particular craft stinks form fuel it uses or lubes it requires.

In regard to operating exhaust smells, inside/outside the boat: Interior exhaust line condition as well as exterior airflow directions (bringing exhaust from outside to inside boat cavities/portions via windows/doors) as well as engine brand, condition, rpm used, and engine model determines odors at hand.

In other words:

Well kept boats of any type fuel and engine smell fine.

Poorly kept boats simply stink.
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:48 PM   #35
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Buying a project boat will lead to the unforeseen appearing time and time again. As previously suggested once all the tanks and engine gear are removed you will have a great opportunity to make it right, especially the potentially gas saturated ER wood which is abundant on Tollies. What material were the old tanks and what for new again?

Yesterday I was on a very nice 1989 Tolly 40 sport fisher. DD 400 hp 6 53s with no smell, major oil drips or fuel leaks. The PO was very careful and attentive. But it will need new engines in a few years too, at a lot more cost than the gassers you will put in.

Many good boats have V drives, just be sure those have been gone through too. Enjoy, many of us have been in your shoes wondering what we got into with this old boat.
sc - I'm very interested to learn more, in regard to this qoute from your post: "... especially the potentially gas saturated ER wood which is abundant on Tollies.

Please, do tell - How many gas or diesel boats (Tolly included) have you experienced with fuel (gas/diesel included) ER saturated wood?

To saturate wood with any type fuel means to either immerse said wood for a continued period of time into the fuel... or to spray said wood for a very long period of time with the fuel... to the point where the wood is often dripping wet with fuel and therefore absorbs it.

IMHO Any boat that has gasoline or diesel fuel saturated ER wood should be well avoided. PO either had a sudden calamity happen or was a complete slob in care for his craft. Also, it seems to me that if ER wood became saturated with gasoline that a BIG BOOM would have previously occurred.

Having been aboard many boats of both fuel types Ive never seen an ER with fuel (gas or diesel) saturated wood... that includes Tollycraft.

How many Tolly have you been aboard that had gasoline saturated ER wood?? Just Wondering!
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #36
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The way I read sunchasers post is, there is a lot of wood on tollies.
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:04 PM   #37
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The way I read sunchasers post is, there is a lot of wood on tollies.
Little wood very near engines: Plywood floors and joists are wood as well as reinforced painted plywood base for fuel tanks. A few painted floor posts. Reinforced painted ply for genset base. Ply under-floor bulk head. Stringers have no wood but rather are constructed via closed-cell foam used as a rigid form for extremely well constructed and thick FRP hand woven into Tolly's 1" + thick FRP bottom and transom - no rot ever there!

Interior rooms above floor have much really nice wood. Exterior has virtually none... at least on our year and model Tollycraft... all railing is SS, and we like it! Some other Tolly models have exterior wood... Teak hand rails and the like!
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:35 PM   #38
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The way I read sunchasers post is, there is a lot of wood on tollies.
Yes, that is how I intended. Lots of wood in Tolly ERs, not a knock just how it is.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:01 AM   #39
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First, what bshillam said X 2. I'd also inspect fuel lines throughout - they don't last forever and they can weep rather than leak when they deteriorate.
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:53 PM   #40
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Holes in the starboard tank = fumes through the ER and salon. Guess this was a good Decision on my part to replace and not use a bandaid! Still not sure about port. That comes out Monday.
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