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Old 04-30-2018, 02:24 PM   #1
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Fuel tank selector valve.

Can anyone recognize the make of this fuel selector valve. It seems the valve stem has worked its way out of the valve body about 3/4” and the handle no longer turns.
What it used to look like:
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What it looks like now:

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I had detached the mount to get a better look at the valve. Googling “Reverso” and fuel tank selector valve brings no luck. With the tanks shut off, I wonder if the the nut on the valve body can be backed off and the stem pushed back into place. Any thoughts on this? Possible replacement? Clearances are an issue in this location so fancy manifolds may be problematic.

Thanks Jim
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:33 PM   #2
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Jim: It looks like a Groco bronze fuel valve?
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:57 PM   #3
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I have a similar one on my boat and the stem also looks long that way. Mine is working fine but is hard to move, I mean not hard like I need a wrench but harder than an usual valve.

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Old 04-30-2018, 03:14 PM   #4
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It looks like a Groco 6 port fuel selector valve like this one: https://www.groco.net/products/valve...-6-port-series

It has two three way valves ganged on one body. The front valve selects tank for the fuel supply for the engine and the smaller one behind selects the return.

Amazon has them for $152- https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-FUEL-VA...selector+valve

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Old 04-30-2018, 03:35 PM   #5
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Thanks guys. Thats exactly what it is. I will phone Groco. Their technical department was very helpful in the past.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:32 AM   #6
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From Groco: “On reviewing the photos this might not be a GROCO fuel valve.
Our handles are stamped GROCO Stevensville MD on one side
But most of these type valves should come apart.”
heading up Johnstone Strait and it’s snotty!
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Old 05-01-2018, 01:11 PM   #7
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I think you will find it is an Anderson Brass Six Port Valve. Try them at 1.800.476.9876.

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Old 05-02-2018, 06:40 AM   #8
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Man... talk about a single point of failure. There is a lot going on in a small space there and it doesn’t look very easy to get to. Good luck.
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:22 AM   #9
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Here is the website for Reverso Reverso Fuel Polishing Systems, Diesel Filtration, Transfer Pumps and Oil Change Systems
They are in Ft. Lauderdale.
Like LarryM, I think the valve was made by Anderson Brass. Reverso makes oil and fuel transfer pumps. They probably made the valve mount and label.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:00 PM   #10
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Fuel tank selector valve.

Here’s the update. I talked to Ron at Anderson Brass. After considerable discussion and review of the photos, he said they used to sell a 6-Port valve to Reverso with full 360degree rotation. The item is SP2381CMTP-2. It’s a slightly different in its configuration so the sign will have to be changed.

Also, the valve is not serviceable. Once the valve seat gets scored, it needs to be replaced. I have a contact for Canada as Anderson does not sell directly to the public.

Edit: I also talked to Reverso: it’s a FVA-8-6, and they have discontinued the item. So I still have to source it from Anderson.
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:45 PM   #11
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JD, did you try Martin Marine? They have all kinds of weird stuff like that...
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:44 PM   #12
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I’m bumping this thread again. I have obtained the replacement valve. If anyone has some advice for approaching replacing this valve, dealing with fuel lines etc, any suggestions are appreciated. I’ve got lots of absorbent pads, flat disposable containers. I also have some SAE caps and plugs for the hose fittings. Not sure what thread type the valve is. Other than the obvious, such as closing all valves, prior and after the valve, that’s about all I know. The photos at the top of the thread show what I’m dealing with.

After thinking this through, I realize that I have valves at each tank for the supply and return lines. I probably could have replace the valve with a couple of “Ts”.

Also, I wonder if the valve has seized due to water ingress and possible corrosion.
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:16 AM   #13
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"Also, I wonder if the valve has seized due to water ingress and possible corrosion."

That would take a lot of water , over a long time.

I would guess the packing has seized to the shaft, simply loosening the packing nut may allow the valve to be exercised.

Good luck.
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
"Also, I wonder if the valve has seized due to water ingress and possible corrosion."

That would take a lot of water , over a long time.

I would guess the packing has seized to the shaft, simply loosening the packing nut may allow the valve to be exercised.

Good luck.

I have the new valve and can view inside the ports. It’s brass on brass and is quite stiff to work. I asked Ron at Anderson if I could loosen off the nut to get some movement and he said it only have fuel coming out. He said that would not solve the issue.

The tight spaces make me nervous. I wonder if the hoses (cause they’re more like hoses rather than lines) will need to be removed at the tank so they can be spun while threading them on the valve.

Jim
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:12 AM   #15
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JD, I would spend some time looking at the system and see if you can replace that agglomeration of brass with a series of ball valves (although that valve did last you 30 years or so). Ball valves are readily available and somewhere like New Line Hose can make you some very nice, serviceable fuel hoses with swivels on the end like hydraulic hoses, while you wait usually, then you will have a nice modern system without the doubts of this old valve.

If you tape the end of a shop vac to the tank filler and let it run, you will be able to unscrew the hoses with minimal fuel loss. Just a bit fiddly and you "may" need to partially, not totally, block the tank vents.

Actually, looking at those existing fuel hoses you appear to have swivels already.
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:30 AM   #16
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Xsbank: all hoses are new, circa 2010, I believe when the fuel tanks were replaced. I’m not certain about the age of the valve. Anderson no longer supplies them for Reverso. There are ball valves at the tank, both supply and return lines. So the valve in question is redundant. BTW, I paid $400 USD for this valve plus taxes on top of that.
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Old 06-02-2018, 06:51 AM   #17
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"I wonder if the hoses (cause they’re more like hoses rather than lines) will need to be removed at the tank so they can be spun while threading them on the valve."

This is a good point for anyone having hoses made up.

Hyd , fuel or propane be sure to specify a swivel on BOTH ends .

Makes R&R much simpler at almost no cost.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:59 AM   #18
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If you tape the end of a shop vac to the tank filler and let it run, you will be able to unscrew the hoses with minimal fuel loss. Just a bit fiddly and you "may" need to partially, not totally, block the tank vents.

X,

I was going to suggest that but did not want to deal with the naysayers. I used that method on a home oil tank with complete success.

Rob
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Old 06-02-2018, 11:30 AM   #19
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I feel your pain JD, just spent over $600 for a hydraulic controller for my anchor windlass. But boy does it work a treat!

If you have ball valves at the tanks you are almost there. You will lose minimal fuel when you change out but if you use the shop vac leave the valves open and even the line will not drip. Have fun! I am in the middle of refurbishing my bunk room into a stateroom with a real bed and will spend today making small pieces of plywood out of big ones.
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:48 AM   #20
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"It’s brass on brass and is quite stiff to work. I asked Ron at Anderson if I could loosen off the nut to get some movement and he said it only have fuel coming out. He said that would not solve the issue."

The reason the fuel selector is hard to move is the parts are on a taper , and well machines.

Only a slight pressure is required to sieze a good taper , ask any lathe operator.

By loosening the packing nut and giving the shaft a slight tap to the shaft , the taper should release.

IF you do R&R the valve , take it apart to see if there actually was anything wrong with it.

I would bet a dollar to a donut hole its fine, was just well built.
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