Fuel tank replacement job

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Great work Dave. You are a wealth of information, thanks for the pic. We are heading back to Solomon’s in a couple of weeks, hope to see you there.
 
Great work Dave. You are a wealth of information, thanks for the pic. We are heading back to Solomon’s in a couple of weeks, hope to see you there.

We should be around. Going to pickup tanks tomorrow. The second half of the fun starts soon.
 
Good. Did you post the cost for the tanks? If not can you?
 
Good. Did you post the cost for the tanks? If not can you?

Two 77 gal tanks $1738 total. SP Tanks in NJ. Promised 10 bus day turn around and did it in 9.
 
What gauge aluminum did you get? Are you picking them up or having them shipped? My tanks are 210 gallons each and I don’t want to go any smaller when I replace mine.
 
What gauge aluminum did you get? Are you picking them up or having them shipped? My tanks are 210 gallons each and I don’t want to go any smaller when I replace mine.

Picked up tanks at SP Marine Services in Barnegat NJ https://www.spmarineservices.com/marine-fuel-tank-repair.php. I am very pleased with the quality of the work they did. The tanks are 3/16" 5052 Al. Darren at SP recommended the upgrade from 1/8". The tanks were ready in less than 10 business days as promised. That is something I rarely experience with boat work. Darren provided lots of good advice before I ordered the tanks and I got alot more information today when I visited the shop. The tanks are 77 gal each. I lost 21 gallons of capacity.

Next step is to bed Kingsboard to the tanks with 5200 at all contact points. Unfortunately I have to do some of that in the boat. If I would do it at home the tanks would not go through the port side door. We are only talking about 1/4" poly, I don't have any margin.
 

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Thanks for the info. Good luck with the install.
 
Dave, I'm a little confused. Is every blue cap / plug an inlet, outlet, return line, vent? I see the 2 where the tanks connect, 2 vents, 1 filler, 1 return, and about 6 more. Care to explain the surplus.

I see 2 strips of aluminum that appears to connect the tanks. Are they separated for placement and then locked together once in place?

Ted
 
Dave, I'm a little confused. Is every blue cap / plug an inlet, outlet, return line, vent? I see the 2 where the tanks connect, 2 vents, 1 filler, 1 return, and about 6 more. Care to explain the surplus.

I see 2 strips of aluminum that appears to connect the tanks. Are they separated for placement and then locked together once in place?

Ted
Was thinking the same, noticed the number of fitting not the same on both tanks?

L
 
Dave if you want to adhere Starboard to the tanks, I suggest you use Sudbury’s adhesive sealant. It will stick to Starboard much better than 5200. Be aware that Sudbury sets quickly.
 
Dave, I'm a little confused. Is every blue cap / plug an inlet, outlet, return line, vent? I see the 2 where the tanks connect, 2 vents, 1 filler, 1 return, and about 6 more. Care to explain the surplus.

I see 2 strips of aluminum that appears to connect the tanks. Are they separated for placement and then locked together once in place?

Ted

The aft/right tank has the fill and vent on the top. It also has two pickup tubes, engine and genny. The fittings at the bottom are a xconn to the port tank and a low point drain.
The fwd/left tank has a vent and one fuel return on top. The front of the tank has two sight glass connections and a low point drain at the bottom.
The 1 1/2" cross ties bung is at the bottom. The tabs will tie the tanks together when they are installed. I will drill holes once tanks are set. There should be 1" between the tanks.
 
Dave if you want to adhere Starboard to the tanks, I suggest you use Sudbury’s adhesive sealant. It will stick to Starboard much better than 5200. Be aware that Sudbury sets quickly.

Thanks, I will do some homework on Sudbury. My plan with the 5200 was to use fast set to bed the Starboard. I read that you should flame treat the Starboard before bedding.
 
The King Starboard web site has directions for adhesive usage including flaming the starboard. They recommend a couple of adhesives but I think they are intending on joining two pieces of starboard rather than glueing starboard to a tank. The Sudbury Elastomeric does stick to HDPE. I used to own a Triumph boat that was rotomolded out of plastic. The Elastomeric caulk was the only thing that would stick to it.
 
Just my two penn'orth.
The tanks are beautiful bit of work, they look real classy, well done.
When I fitted my fuel tanks, they were fitted with the back of the tanks (port & stbd) against the hull.
I did all the usual bedding etc then once they were set up I used expanding foam between the rear of the tank and the hull.
It cuts down condensation and noise as well as keeping them firmly fixed in place.
 
Just my two penn'orth.
The tanks are beautiful bit of work, they look real classy, well done.
When I fitted my fuel tanks, they were fitted with the back of the tanks (port & stbd) against the hull.
I did all the usual bedding etc then once they were set up I used expanding foam between the rear of the tank and the hull.
It cuts down condensation and noise as well as keeping them firmly fixed in place.

My tanks will sit on ribs that stand off the hull a few inches. From what I have read, the tanks should breath. You don't want moisture to collect and stay in contact with the tank.
 
I was more interested in stopping condensation on the interior walls to prevent diesel bug.
So far I've had no problems with any moisture when I do my monthly check.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.
 
I was more interested in stopping condensation on the interior walls to prevent diesel bug.
So far I've had no problems with any moisture when I do my monthly check.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.

Not questioning your method, it makes sense.
 
Put the Starboard on today with 5200. I hope it works and I don't get an "I told you so" from Hopcar about the sealant choice.
I degreased the AL with acetone, sanded with 220 and degreased again with acetone.
For the Starboard it was sanded with 120 grit, cleaned with acetone and then flame treated with a propane torch. The back of the Starboard is completely covered with Fastset 5200, pressed onto the tanks and then a bead of 5200 was ran around the outside edges. Fingers crossed:whistling:
 

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Petit Protect Epoxy Primer

Dave:

I might be adding to your work, but wish to point out something I just learned from one of the most well-respected fiberglass shops on the west coast of Florida.

They strongly recommended that they prime our aluminum tanks with the epoxy primer shown in this photo below. They said it would add at minimum 5 years to the life of our tanks, and more likely 10 years. So, we had them do it. Our tanks are also being installed on support ribs. Our tanks are for gasoline, not diesel.

Cheers,
Pea
 

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Dave:

I might be adding to your work, but wish to point out something I just learned from one of the most well-respected fiberglass shops on the west coast of Florida.

They strongly recommended that they prime our aluminum tanks with the epoxy primer shown in this photo below. They said it would add at minimum 5 years to the life of our tanks, and more likely 10 years. So, we had them do it. Our tanks are also being installed on support ribs. Our tanks are for gasoline, not diesel.

Cheers,
Pea

I was offered the epoxy coating option and chose not to. All installations and conditions are different. My ER is very dry. The tanks will have lots of air space on all sides. Al oxidizes, forms a protective layer and then stops if kept dry. My concern with coating is that they chip, scratch and micro crack over time. Old coatings can get moisture under it and then corrosion cells continue.
This is all based on what I have read. I really don't know what I am talking about although I have minor training in materials.
 
That is the problem with foaming a tank in. The aluminum corrodes underneath the foam and you cannot see it happening.
 
Put the Starboard on today with 5200. I hope it works and I don't get an "I told you so" from Hopcar about the sealant choice.
I degreased the AL with acetone, sanded with 220 and degreased again with acetone.
For the Starboard it was sanded with 120 grit, cleaned with acetone and then flame treated with a propane torch. The back of the Starboard is completely covered with Fastset 5200, pressed onto the tanks and then a bead of 5200 was ran around the outside edges. Fingers crossed:whistling:

I think you’ll be fine. You didn’t mention you were going to flame treat the Starboard. The reason I suggested the Sudbury is that it will adhere to Starboard without flame treating.
 
"That is the problem with foaming a tank in. The aluminum corrodes underneath the foam and you cannot see it happening."

Not a problem with plastic boxes for fuel..Although the install process is different.
 
Yesterday the tanks would not go through the door. The mockup went threw the door easily. The mockup probably weighed 10 lbs. The tanks are about 85 lbs. we could not tilt the tanks high enough over the rail to slide in. Two strong guys could have but the boss and I just didn't have the ass to "git er done". So, we removed the railing and they slid right in. We got the tanks set, bolted together, cross tie hose and fill hose on today. All the hard work and potential surprises are done. It is all pretty straight forward from here. Tanks will get bolted in place and plumbing hooked up next.
 

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There is always a way to make it fit... Looking good.
 
This job is in the books!

Wrapped up today. Finished installing the holding tank and replacing all the hoses. I was able to improve two of the hose runs due to the flexibility of the now style hose. The Saniflex hoses are pricey but nice to work with. Forty-three feet was $600.
Someone asked for a tank cost breakdown. I got away with $2200 with doing all the work myself. I know someone with the same boat who had this done by a yard and it cost him $9500 three years ago.

(2) 77gal 3/16” 5052 AL tanks$1874


Fuel Hoses (2) $97


1 ½” fuel hose $14.75


2” Fuel fill hose $37.59


Valves and fittings $30


Neoprene $75


3M 5200 $41.54


Sawzall blades $35


Total $2204.88


If the port tank leaks I will probably do it myself. It a lot of work but the satisfaction factor was high for me. Its good to have the boat back, time to cruise!
 

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Very nice. The port side will be easier because you’ve already figured out all the tricks.
 
Great job, I hope ours will last a few more years.
 

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