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Old 02-28-2011, 02:52 PM   #61
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Gonzo

How many hours does it take to "plug" your polishing filter (is this a 30u filter)? By "plug," I mean the vacuum rises to about 2/3 into the yellow zone on the racor gauge?**By timing the plug "period," you'll get a good feel for progress.*

As previous posters have said - Don't sweat year old fuel and forget about cleaning your tank.*My guess is you'll have*your fuel clean (enough) after about 3 tank turnovers.
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:51 PM   #62
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Sunchaser, depending on the piping the pump Gonzo has will pull neg 20 psi with a clean filter, but the concept is valid, it just needs to be a relative measurement.* When you fire it up with a clean filter, that is the baseline measurement.

Gonzo, a sump drain is just a valve at the bottom of the tank, used to drain off settled contaminants.* They may not be there, and if not, the polisher will serve much the same function.
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:01 PM   #63
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Gonzo,* If you have a drain plug or valve at the low point in your tanks, this worked for me in the past.

Drain the tank by pumping all fuel to the other tank(you have to have room).

Open the plug and drain off the rest. (probably discard).

Then leave the plug open with a container under it for a few hours, extra* sludge will continue to ooze out for a while.

Once it stops you can close the plug.

You may not have to open the inspection ports if you polish out what is left.


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Old 02-28-2011, 04:46 PM   #64
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

"Really, my only concern about pulling off the inspection/cleaning hatches (round and about 15" across with about 20 bolts) myself is getting them sealed back up so I don't drip 300 gallons of fuel into my bilge."

Are these hatches on the top of the tanks? If so sealing them is a piece of cake.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:56 PM   #65
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

*If you go back and look at some of the installation pics, you'll see that my tank output valves are AT the very bottom edge, bottom corner, lowest point on the tank. (lower left of picture below... that clamp on the left end of the hose it it) One of the projects planned for this whole install was to eventually replace the gated valves that are currently there (requiring a lot of turs to open and close in cramped conditions) with lever ball valves. However, I needed a fuel management system to be able to do that. SOooooo, once my fuel level is low enough (next month I hope), I will move the fuel to one tank, pull off the valve, and see if I can de-ooze the tank as described.

**Currently, the gauge reads about -10 when polishing.

***Inspection hatches are on the SIDE of the tank. So resealing seems critical
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:32 PM   #66
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

"I guess I could pull them off and clean them, but pay someone with liability insurance to seal them back up for me. "


I have an agreement with all mechanics -
"I don't turn wrenches & they don't clean tanks".

While we do carry Liability Insurance we limit our exposure to just cleaning tanks. In this process we may cut holes on tanks, make plates, drill & tap holes in order to gain entry to a tank but in this case I would request the owner to hire an outside source to open up the tank.

Those covers can be a can of worms or a cake walk.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:07 PM   #67
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Why not?
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:03 PM   #68
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

You have the man holes.
Removing them and replacing them so that they seal is not difficult.
It is all in the preparation.
Once you have MTd the tank, remove the door/doors, clean tank (dispose of sludge and old fuel at disposal point in marina or yard).
Clean the surface of the door and the corresponding area on the tank. Use a scraper or file end ground flat to remove old gasket a bit of emery clothe to finnish.
Make new gaskets using oilite or suitable gasket material, clean threads and run nuts down so that you know they are good.
If using good gasket material and surfaces are V clean no gasket goo or similar is required, a light smear of copper kote or similar grease , put back door and sequentially
tighten nuts so that door is tight, if you get a slight leak nip up the nuts again.
If you want to be very cautious do one tank at a time and be able to transfer the fuel back from the tank being done.

and Jack's your cross dressing aunt as opposed to Bob's your uncle.

Benn
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:09 PM   #69
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The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Quote:
Tidahapah wrote:

and Jack's your cross dressing aunt as opposed to Bob's your uncle.

Benn
Speaking of Auntie Jack, when we lived in Oz that was our favorite TV show.* Remember it?** A 300 pound cross dresser with hair buns, a moustache, wearing a boxing glove and a dress?* Australia TV at its best.

*


-- Edited by Delfin on Monday 28th of February 2011 10:09:53 PM
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:09 PM   #70
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Aunty Jack re runs still get a good laugh from some of us but the kiddies don't seem to get it (kiddies any one under about 45)

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Old 03-01-2011, 05:55 AM   #71
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Thanks Benn... From what I can see, there is a lot of "goo" as sealer on there now. If I had to guess, I'd say these were added after the boat was manufactured. I am only hypothesizing however. Like I said, it may be a month before I know the tanks are low enough to transfer fuel, so I will take a close look and maybe post a few pics here of what I find. I wonder if I could beg/borrow/steal a scope to look down in there before I goto all the effort?

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Old 03-01-2011, 07:54 AM   #72
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Gonzo

There is no need to clean to tanks - yet, if ever. Once you have polished your fuel for 3 tank turnarounds, assess how frequently your polishing filters are plugging to the point they need replacement. Since you don't see any major water in your bowls, you are in great shape already IMHO.
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:54 PM   #73
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Now I can't remember what your tanks are made of.
If they are steel then I would definately open them for inspection as there may well be large scale plates hanging about (rust)
This won't come out whilst polishing but may break up later and clog your outlets.
One reason to physically check your tanks every few years or so.

There is nothing more reassuring than a good eye ball inspection.

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Old 03-02-2011, 05:15 AM   #74
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

Actually, I have managed to borrow a fiber optic endoscope from a person at work. It may not be ideal for the job as it is a very small FOV, but I am going to play with it and see what happens. Advantage of working at a tech company.
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:04 AM   #75
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RE: The Fuel System Upgrade Project: Episode II

I love this set up, I'm going to copy it on my CHB. I just finished cutting out my tanks this past weekend and the stuff inside was SCARY!! My system is currently plumbed with both tanks (NO VALVES) feeding into a T then into a small primer fuel pump ( I think it always runs) into an old 200 Racor then into the engine mechanical pump, filters and fuel injection pump. Any reason I can't leave that alone but place this system in line? Also, I was a little confused on your set up, where does the engine return line go?

Regardless, already got my Grainger and Mcmaster-Carr catalogs and can't wait to fit it all up.

I'm going to reuse my 200 Racor as the polishing filter and purchase 2 new 500 for the fuel tank feeds. Any help, ideas or warnings you can give (that aren't already in this thread) I would greatly appreciate it!

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Old 05-01-2015, 03:17 PM   #76
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If the pump does not already have grommets on the mounting flanges you might want to add that too, since that is where your noise is going into the plywood sounding board.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:09 PM   #77
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Dude... Four year-old thread... boat is sold :-)
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:48 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.B View Post
Good-bye o-ye' plywood... I bid greeting to thy King's Starboard!

Final mock-up pics. Not totally happy with the hold-downs for the manifolds yet, but these will do for now and they can easily be swapped out when I do find what I like. Besides... I need to get crackin' on getting Skinny Dippin' running so we can a) get boating b) know that what I have spent so much time,effort, and money on... works! c) move on to other projects d) get boating

I am headed over to my dad's house today to round-over the edges and cut a couple of monkey-grip handles into it.
Hate to bring up an old thread, but I am impressed with the design and just at the point of installing a new fuel system on my boat. One question? It seems to me that the polishing filter has the fuel entering thru the outlet and the fuel exiting the filter thru the inlet. Does this matter?
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:27 AM   #79
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Yes it matters.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:15 AM   #80
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Yes.

Most filters have a grille to support the pleated filter material and prevent it from being collapsed by the pressure of the oil / fuel going through it. As the filter gets more contaminated, the pressure rises and would be likely to blow out the pleats and cover the 'return' port if the fuel was going the wrong direction.
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