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Old 08-12-2013, 10:26 PM   #21
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...my vent line is laid out with about a 2 foot rise from the transom vent, which is well above the water line, to the top of the engine room, before dropping into the top of the fuel tank.
Correction: Make that a 1 ft rise...
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:16 AM   #22
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I discovered the series of plastic mesh screens in the fuel vent had degraded over the years and had disappeared. These screens are designed to allow air to flow but to restrict water from entering the vent line.

Water goes thru screening reasonably well,

my assumption is the screen is to stop insects from nesting and plugging the vent .
Bingo!
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:23 PM   #23
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Did any water get into the bilge. Someone else was referring to O rings at the fuel fill If those go and you have steel fuel tanks it can rust through the top.

A Tollycraft in the slip next to me had a water leak on to the top of an engine. It rusted through the valve cover and filled the oil pan with water. The water pushed the oil out through the dip stick tube. filled the bilge with oil and ruined the engine.

Took a while to figure that one out no idea why the motor was full of water.
I pushed on a rust spot on the valve cover and my finger went right through.

Ah Ha.

Water gets in.

SD
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:27 PM   #24
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Did any water get into the bilge. Someone else was referring to O rings at the fuel fill If those go and you have steel fuel tanks it can rust through the top.

A Tollycraft in the slip next to me had a water leak on to the top of an engine. It rusted through the valve cover and filled the oil pan with water. The water pushed the oil out through the dip stick tube. filled the bilge with oil and ruined the engine.

Took a while to figure that one out no idea why the motor was full of water.
I pushed on a rust spot on the valve cover and my finger went right through.

Ah Ha.

Water gets in.

SD
SD - Great to hear from ya! All going well I hope.

Just gotta ask - Was the Tolly owner not checking his ER at all for span of several years / a decade?? Takes a loooong time to have a drip rust through valve cover to the extent of oil overflow you mention. Know I'm a bit anal retentive bout keeping any of my rigs in real good mechanical condition... and I'm never aboard any boat without at very least a complete visual scan of ER and other locations with machinery. But at very least a boat owner should know if the valve covers are rusting through – Geeezz!

BTW: What year and model Tolly – single or twin... gas or diesel??

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Old 08-13-2013, 03:09 PM   #25
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A 32' Tolly twin gassers. Owned by a lady who's husband died about 5 years ago. She does not know boats. I don't think she was able to operate it. She has been trying to sell it. The last time the boat was used was about 3 years ago. Her son came up from Florida and they took it out for a day trip.

The leak also filled the bilge and shorten out the charger and electrical system. A sad story and a sad boat. I was just trying th help her get the boat running.

We pumped 5 gallons of water out of the starboard engine before I found the leak.
I pulled the spark plugs and was able to turn it over with a wrench on the crank. Lots of water in the cylinders. The port engine would crank after wacking the starter with a hammer. It would not start. A clean, pretty boat except for the ER.

I think both motors are toast.

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Old 08-13-2013, 04:50 PM   #26
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A 32' Tolly twin gassers. Owned by a lady who's husband died about 5 years ago. She does not know boats. I don't think she was able to operate it. She has been trying to sell it. The last time the boat was used was about 3 years ago. Her son came up from Florida and they took it out for a day trip.

The leak also filled the bilge and shorten out the charger and electrical system. A sad story and a sad boat. I was just trying th help her get the boat running.

We pumped 5 gallons of water out of the starboard engine before I found the leak.
I pulled the spark plugs and was able to turn it over with a wrench on the crank. Lots of water in the cylinders. The port engine would crank after wacking the starter with a hammer. It would not start. A clean, pretty boat except for the ER.

I think both motors are toast.

SD
That's way too bad and very unfortunate for the gal. Also a shame to have a good Tolly die slowly. I'm not familiar with 32' Tolly's. Far as I know they went... 30 to 34 to 36 to 37... at least since the 60's . Before that?? Visit this this link and see if you can pick her out. Punch on the year under “Model Selection” and the boats for that year’s photos come up.

http://www.tolly-classified.com/class3.html

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Old 08-13-2013, 06:39 PM   #27
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Per, send pics of the new bow pulpit and rollers. No snubber, huh? Were you at Catalina when it happened?
no i was anchored off the coast near pt fermin, it was upon departure/retraction of the gear it happened but yeah def a good reason to keep your snubber attached until the tackle if off the bottom if that is possible..
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:37 PM   #28
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Did any water get into the bilge. Someone else was referring to O rings at the fuel fill If those go and you have steel fuel tanks it can rust through the top.

SD
Hey, 'Dude! Nice to see you treading these waters again! My best to the Admiral.

Nope...no water got in the bilge. My 8 year old aluminum tanks have air space all around them and are dry as a bone in the Sahara desert at high noon. My tank access is very good and the tank top was the first place I looked after seeing water in the Racor.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:41 PM   #29
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no i was anchored off the coast near pt fermin, it was upon departure/retraction of the gear it happened but yeah def a good reason to keep your snubber attached until the tackle if off the bottom if that is possible..
That's a tough situation having to retrieve the chain rode during rough conditions with a stuck anchor. I've thought about it, maybe even a nightmare or two, but never encountered it first hand. Glad the stout nose of your Californian was up to the task. Show us her new bow bling when you get the chance.

Hey, now that I think about it, weren't you going to shorten your pulpit to meet the marina length requirements? I know you moved to another marina, but did you shorten it before the move?
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:43 PM   #30
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They could have been replacement caps, Bruce. The filler neck flange is bronze. SS caps are on their way.
A search on compatibility suggests s/s and bronze are ok together.Guess you knew that or would not be doing it, I`ll mention it anyway.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:03 PM   #31
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Thanks for watching my back, Bruce! Seahorse II also sent me a PM about this. I appreciate the word of caution.

Yes, I looked into it and determined the same. They reside adjacent to each other on the table of galvanic compatibility, indicating that they are compatible or the least dissimilar. Here's a table I used:

Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

A few months back, I replaced the bronze phillips-head screws on my impeller pump with SS knurled allen-head screws. This makes changing the pump much easier. At that time, I researched this and decided to add a coat of dielectric grease to the screws as I inserted them as an extra layer of protection. I'm not sure if this would be beneficial or advisable in the case of the fuel caps.

The most corrosive environment is in salt water. The problem diminishes greatly in dry environments.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:50 PM   #32
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Thanks for watching my back, Bruce! Seahorse II also sent me a PM about this. I appreciate the word of caution.

Yes, I looked into it and determined the same. They reside adjacent to each other on the table of galvanic compatibility, indicating that they are compatible or the least dissimilar. Here's a table I used:

Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

A few months back, I replaced the bronze phillips-head screws on my impeller pump with SS knurled allen-head screws. This makes changing the pump much easier. At that time, I researched this and decided to add a coat of dielectric grease to the screws as I inserted them as an extra layer of protection. I'm not sure if this would be beneficial or advisable in the case of the fuel caps.

The most corrosive environment is in salt water. The problem diminishes greatly in dry environments.
On screw caps to my bronze, chromed deck fills (similar to these SS fills: http://www.iboats.com/Seadog-Stainless-Steel-Deck-Fills/dm/cart_id.902056373--session_id.754091757--view_id.685916 ) I keep good condition "O" rings and at every fuel fill liberally rub white grease around each "O" ring for water infiltration protraction.

I also put in correct amount of Soltron to gallons added. Have not had a drop of water or schmeg in filters for years! Before using Soltron – problems happened http://www.soltron.com/

PS: I buy Soltron at NAPA stores... Really inexpensive way to keep gas and diesel in great condition.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:04 AM   #33
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Thanks for the tip, Art. I'll pay more attention to the caps and o-rings from now on.

Not to start a new fuel additive, but I use Biobor-JF in my diesel.

Until now, this boat has not had a water or fuel contamination issue with its 8-year new fuel system. I have dual racors per side and have never changed the filters dated 2006 until now. There has never been a reason to drain or change them. I'll feel much better after having the tanks scrubbed.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:20 AM   #34
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Yup, got SS caps:

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Old 08-14-2013, 12:51 AM   #35
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Thanks for the tip, Art. I'll pay more attention to the caps and o-rings from now on.

Not to start a new fuel additive, but I use Biobor-JF in my diesel.

Until now, this boat has not had a water or fuel contamination issue with its 8-year new fuel system. I have dual racors per side and have never changed the filters dated 2006 until now. There has never been a reason to drain or change them. I'll feel much better after having the tanks scrubbed.
Hey Al - I looked into Biobar - sounds good. Must be if till now you are still running 2006 filters .
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:06 AM   #36
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How did you separate the water from the fuel and what did you do with the gallons of fuel?
Thanks
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:53 AM   #37
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Stainlees shaft...bronze propeller....

Some people swear by additives, some people swear at them. Usually the people that have good results either use them religiously or never.

Most of the time I find the people who use them religiously would have never had a problem anyway because of the way they use their boat...usually like the one that don't use additives.

Not saying that all are bad...just seriously doubt one is majic as everyone would copy it....and they don't.

Usually there's another issue than "just having fuel aboard" that requires additives if at all...usually length of time, fuel system peculiarities or issues, tank temps, filtration, amount of fuel return from engine, etc, etc, etc.....
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:22 AM   #38
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Yup, got SS caps:

Mark: I'm quite surprised that the wrench slots on your fuel caps are not in alignment when tightened! Is that a quality issue?
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:45 AM   #39
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Mark: I'm quite surprised that the wrench slots on your fuel caps are not in alignment when tightened! Is that a quality issue?
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:18 PM   #40
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Make sure your engines don't have fuel coolers on them. I doubt any of the small Perkins do. But if you have 3208s, they might. I just went through a water issue in one tank only and was stumped until I found it was the fuel cooler....Cummins 330B. It trashed 2 injectors and I am still battling getting the fuel totally clean. I replaced all injectors to be on the safe side. I had the fuel polished before I solved the problem and then had to have it polished again. This was a relatively costly issue but I am lucky it didn't trash the whole engine. I have a picture that I will post showing water coming out of a FUEL line!!!!
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