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Old 02-11-2014, 11:54 AM   #1
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fresh water flushing system for Yanmar 300hp diesel

I am looking for suggestions for installing a fresh water flushing system for my Yanmar diesel. Any thoughts ?
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:01 PM   #2
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I have seen a T just after the sea strainer used, it can be used for flushing with fresh or salt away (which is what this owner did) make sure you have enough pressure to keep up with the pump. An idea and not a bad one, instead of hooking up your hose put the flush side in a five gallon bucket so you can observe and make sure the supply side is keeping up with demand. In addition you can use the t side as an emergency bilge pump.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:04 PM   #3
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Simlar to groco sea strainer t - Google Search
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:26 PM   #4
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This is what I did for a fresh water flush. I installed a Tee in the hose between the sea strainer and the engine water pump. When I'm done with a cruise I hook up a water hose to the Tee. I keep the valve off while hooking up the water hose and turn the water on to about half pressure. The engine is still running. I open up the valve and then close the seacock. I now have fresh water going into the engine. I let it run about 5 minutes and then turn the engine off and disconnect.
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:22 PM   #5
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I've seen a number of good posts within boatdiesel.com on this, I think the key with all these idea's is design it so it's easy to use, if you are going through all kinds of girations for it to work there is a good likelyhood you won't be doing it as much.
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:12 PM   #6
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My method is very simple.

I disconnect my hose that is attached to my sea water intake valve, Kingston valve or whatever. Get a 5 gal bucket (clean) and put in low and close enough to the hose so it will easily reach the bottom of the bucket. Get one or more buckets w fresh water in them to replenish the water pumped out while the engine is running. Start the engine and pour water into the suction bucket until the water is gone. Repeat if necessary. Not necessary for me as I have a small engine. Open and close the sea water inlet valve as necessary.

If you unhook the sea water inlet hose now and then (or often) it should be easy to remove. Good place to double clamp.
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:41 PM   #7
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??

Quote:
Originally Posted by windmist View Post
This is what I did for a fresh water flush. I installed a Tee in the hose between the sea strainer and the engine water pump. When I'm done with a cruise I hook up a water hose to the Tee. I keep the valve off while hooking up the water hose and turn the water on to about half pressure. The engine is still running. I open up the valve and then close the seacock. I now have fresh water going into the engine. I let it run about 5 minutes and then turn the engine off and disconnect.
Who's T did you use? and what other items such as the fitting above the T? I too am getting ready to install similar set up and thought this was slick. I have three motors to flush and would like to make sure it's easy - something like a quick disconnect so I can transfer from each engine to flush would be slick.
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:40 PM   #8
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Yes I would say simple as well, but certainly not easy like flipping a valve handle and turning on a hose, but everyone has their own methods of skinning a cat.
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My method is very simple.

I disconnect my hose that is attached to my sea water intake valve, Kingston valve or whatever. Get a 5 gal bucket (clean) and put in low and close enough to the hose so it will easily reach the bottom of the bucket. Get one or more buckets w fresh water in them to replenish the water pumped out while the engine is running. Start the engine and pour water into the suction bucket until the water is gone. Repeat if necessary. Not necessary for me as I have a small engine. Open and close the sea water inlet valve as necessary.

If you unhook the sea water inlet hose now and then (or often) it should be easy to remove. Good place to double clamp.
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bshillam View Post
Who's T did you use? and what other items such as the fitting above the T? I too am getting ready to install similar set up and thought this was slick. I have three motors to flush and would like to make sure it's easy - something like a quick disconnect so I can transfer from each engine to flush would be slick.
I got all my parts from Fisheries Supply. Do you have their catalog? They do have an on-line catalog as well. I also made up a short connecting hose that goes between the Tee and the water hose. It has female fittings on each end and a shut off valve.

A friend of mine has a flush system that connects his engine and generator together for flushing. As I recall, he just switches a valve to flush one engine or the other. Three engines could get complicated.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:58 PM   #10
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in many cases the easiest thing is to just remove the top of the sea strainer and let the fresh water hose fill it up ...start the engine with just enough flow going in to remain constant with what the engine is sucking out.
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:26 AM   #11
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I will have a valve installed in the lid of my water strainer, the pressurised fresh water hose is permanently attached to this valve: Make sure the water pump for the fresh water system is turned on. While the engine is running at idle, open the fresh water valve, close the strainer sea cock, run the engine for a few minutes, then shut down the engine and close the fresh water valve.
The lid on the strainer is transparent so it is possible to see if the strainer is full of water or not...
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:39 AM   #12
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I will have a valve installed in the lid of my water strainer, the pressurised fresh water hose is permanently attached to this valve: Make sure the water pump for the fresh water system is turned on. While the engine is running at idle, open the fresh water valve, close the strainer sea cock, run the engine for a few minutes, then shut down the engine and close the fresh water valve. The lid on the strainer is transparent so it is possible to see if the strainer is full of water or not...
When you do this there are two things you need to always do otherwise you risk creating bigger problems than you are trying to solve. 1) Shut off the fw feed supply BEFORE you shut down the engine. 2 Always re-open the saltwater through hull.

Obviously your engine shutdown switches and valves need to be within arms length for the shutdown phase. Stopping the engine first will collapse the fw feed hose preventing the overfilling of the exhaust system thus preventing the potential hydro locking of the engine. Re-opening the sw through hull may seem obvious but stuff does seem to happen and people sometimes forget.

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Old 02-12-2014, 11:45 AM   #13
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There are many methods and reasons to freashwater flush (or not) your engine(s)...as long as you know your system and have taken the proper safeguards...unless you are doing exactly like someone else...their method or checklist may not really apply to your method.

Pretty much if you don't hydrolock your engine or forget to open the seacock...whatever method or complicated system you want to employ will be fine.
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:09 PM   #14
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I have 315 Yanmar's and at idle the water fill rate in a bucket to the suction rate on the engine are equal. As stated on boatdiesel/Tony Athen's, just leave the through hull open, any excess will be go out the bottom and no worries of timing valves etc.
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:25 PM   #15
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I had a machine shop drill holes in the top of the strainer caps and install a ball valve. I connected about 4 ft of sanitation hose with a female garden hose connector on the end to the ball valve. I had to use sanitation hose because the engine would suck so much water it would collapse a regular garden hose.

When I flush my Cummins 330 6BT's I connect the fresh water to the white sanitation hose and turn on the fresh water, I start the engines, open the valve on top of the strainer, close the raw water intake valve (sea cock) , and run the engine for about 10-15 minutes at idle only.

When done if the admirals around she shuts down the engine and I simultaneously shut off the water at the ball valve on top of the strainer. If she's not around, I shut down the engine at the helm and quick like a bunny run down to the ER and shut off the ball valve, maybe 10 seconds.

I leave the sea cock closed. Opening it is on my engine start checklist.

Been doing this way for 3 years, hope it's right.
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:40 PM   #16
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Does anyone believe the exhaust elbow will last longer with a 5 min flush?

The heat exchanger for engine and tranny with FW cooling could care less , if its a quality item.

So the question is why bother?
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:42 PM   #17
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Does anyone believe the exhaust elbow will last longer with a 5 min flush?

The heat exchanger for engine and tranny with FW cooling could care less , if its a quality item.

So the question is why bother?
Ditto...inferred ealier..thanks for the supportive thinking...
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:49 PM   #18
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But it makes me feel good!
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:51 PM   #19
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But it makes me feel good!
Nothing better than that until your wife finds out....
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:34 PM   #20
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Nothing better than that until your wife finds out....
Hopefully she won't cut the wrong hose!
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