"Freeze Spray"

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Brooksie

Guru
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
1,310
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Island Seeker
Vessel Make
Willard 36 Sedan
Anyone, any experience with "freeze spray" rusted bolt remover? vs: liquids?
 
Never heard of it how does it work doesn't sound right to me.
 
used it on a circulation pump bolt. Worked like a champ
 
Makes perfect sense to me.
 
Sure why not? Heating nuts is an old trick so chilling bolts is similar.
Long time ago to remove a stuck head bolt I used dry ice on the bolt. It worked, or at least I got it off.
 
Thanks for replies. Yes, that's the stuff. I was once told that heating the bolt (which I have done many times) expands it, crushing the rust, and as it cools it can be removed. I don't know if this is correct b/c I usually find it turns easy while still hotist. Anyway cooling should be less damaging to everything involved.
 
The stuffs worthless unless its a small bolt. 1/4" and up it doesnt help because there is too much temp transfer to the surrounding metal.

I snapped a bolt for the elbow off in the exhaust manifold and finally got it out with a propane torch and a pair of vice grips (after squaring the bolt end with a grinder) and a hammer to create sharp impacts to break up the corrosion. I tried 2 cans to no avail.
 
I hope the TFer replacing his exhaust elbow is following this thread.
 
Didnt know there was one. I'd be happy to pass it along. Anyone have a guess on the thread title?
It`s "rotten exhaust outlet", I put a post on it he should get.
 
Thanks for replies. Yes, that's the stuff. I was once told that heating the bolt (which I have done many times) expands it, crushing the rust, and as it cools it can be removed. I don't know if this is correct b/c I usually find it turns easy while still hotist. Anyway cooling should be less damaging to everything involved.

The process I've been shown is to SLOWLY heat the bolt- the surrounding manifold/ etc. shouldn't actually get very warm. Then let it cool for a while. Heating both the threads and surrounding area will usually work for a turn or so- but there is a good risk of galling the threads and damaging them. :thumb:
 
Often all it takes is a couple of counter-intuitive measures: a gentle tap or two with a hammer, then tighten the bolt before going counter clockwise. Have to admit I have not tried the freeze stuff, sounds slick.
 
Often all it takes is a couple of counter-intuitive measures: a gentle tap or two with a hammer, then tighten the bolt before going counter clockwise.

I'm not at all a mechanic (or even mechanically inclined), but did watch a good mechanic in a boatyard work on an old Westerbeke that had rusted bolts. He squirted penetrating oil on them, gave gentle taps with a hammer, and then went off and did other stuff. Every now and then he would come back and repeat that process. Finally he took a wrench to it, and just went back and forth, loosening it just a tad, tightening it just a tad, but always the loosening would be a little more than the tightening. A lot of squealing from the bolts, but they all came out intact. I was impressed.
 
I'm not at all a mechanic (or even mechanically inclined), but did watch a good mechanic in a boatyard work on an old Westerbeke that had rusted bolts. He squirted penetrating oil on them, gave gentle taps with a hammer, and then went off and did other stuff. Every now and then he would come back and repeat that process. Finally he took a wrench to it, and just went back and forth, loosening it just a tad, tightening it just a tad, but always the loosening would be a little more than the tightening. A lot of squealing from the bolts, but they all came out intact. I was impressed.
True John, there is an "art" to it, which is why I would not tackle a job like that, too much can go wrong removing old bolts in that situation.
 
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