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Old 01-03-2014, 06:14 PM   #21
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Usually no coolant...it's dry at the neck on a Lehman. From the pic in post 15 there is no coolant holes in the Lehman flange so it should just be injected saltwater.

If you have water dripping out from just loosening the flange bolts...you may have bigger problems...the water injection is downstream and none should be back at the flange.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:12 PM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr. psneeld. As bad as my memory is I seem to recall coolant leakage when I did an injector elbow on a 120. You're absolutely correct that raw water is downstream of the flange and would signal "bigger problems".
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:43 PM   #23
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That exhaust manifold is cooled with coolant, but I don't think that elbow is. I am only willing to offer the caution about Lehman coolant, there is a bleeder valve on the top of the engine that MUST be bled after you fill the coolant up afterwards, with the engine running.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:50 PM   #24
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Greetings,
Mr. X. I concur. The manifold must be bled after filling but I don't think it's with the engine running. One of my morning ER checks is to open that valve with the expansion tank cover loosened to release any air entrapped at the upper end of the manifold. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Greetings,
Mr. X. I concur. The manifold must be bled after filling but I don't think it's with the engine running. One of my morning ER checks is to open that valve with the expansion tank cover loosened to release any air entrapped at the upper end of the manifold. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Absolutely correct...engine NOT running to use the bleed valve....

Everyone...check your manuals...too much bad info floating around the internet these days!!!!!!!
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:57 PM   #26
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Hey RT, I think you're correct. I remember paying lots of attention to the bleeder in the past but I guess I had forgotten about the running part. I also recall that I installed the American Diesel overflow tank mod which not only stopped the expansion tank from blowing coolant in the bilge, it kept the expansion tank full and removed the necessity to continuously check the bleeder.

Sorry if I can't live up to your expected level of perfection Mr. psneeld, I'll try and do better next time, or perhaps I should just send you my comments first for vetting?

I'm beginning to see why Marin only PMs when he contributes. While I couldn't remember if you would find coolant with the elbow off a Lehman, I was trying to help out someone with a problem, who was going to have a low-coolant issue. Excuse me.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:05 PM   #27
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Hey RT, I think you're correct. I remember paying lots of attention to the bleeder in the past but I guess I had forgotten about the running part. I also recall that I installed the American Diesel overflow tank mod which not only stopped the expansion tank from blowing coolant in the bilge, it kept the expansion tank full and removed the necessity to continuously check the bleeder.

Sorry if I can't live up to your expected level of perfection Mr. psneeld, I'll try and do better next time, or perhaps I should just send you my comments first for vetting?

I'm beginning to see why Marin only PMs when he contributes. While I couldn't remember if you would find coolant with the elbow off a Lehman, I was trying to help out someone with a problem, who was going to have a low-coolant issue. Excuse me.
Or you could have done like I usually do and LOOK IT UP before I post it with a link or cut and paste to support my post....the "I think its right" posts only help people when they are correct.

It only took me a few seconds to go back and look at the flange picture to see that there's no coolant holes in the one posted in the post I mentioned and I know there isn't any in the stainless one I have. Wild a**ed guesses which are so prevalent here in TF do no one any good...better to be a spectator than wrong.

I too make mistakes...that's why I tell people to check their manuals...

I just like to make fewer mistakes than most....so sure run them by me first.....
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:19 AM   #28
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Sleep well everyone, the internet is no longer in peril.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:24 AM   #29
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Actually it is...I just LOOKED IT UP......
Don’t get spun by Internet rumors.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:52 PM   #30
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hmmm...lots of good tech info now, the kind I really need...thanks all..interesting debate too...hope there is no hard feelings out there..all info I get on the forum is verified by myself before accepting advice as gospel...I think we all need to be careful with what we read from any source. That being said, I have always got great advice on TF and appreciate all comments..back to the boat tomorrow to have another go at it.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:43 AM   #31
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A temporary repair can be done with "Marine Tex" (grey) made by Travaco.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:53 AM   #32
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the quick fix wont work here. I will need a new elbow as well as a manifold...see the quarter sized hole and surrounding area...showed to a local welder and he wont even try to repair it. BTW I drained the engine prior to removing the elbow just to be safe.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:50 PM   #33
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... see the quarter sized hole ...

No
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:23 PM   #34
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Looks like the gasket is still attached, but worn through at the bottom?
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:33 PM   #35
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Tangler, re the "hole", do you mean the opening up at the top of the right hand vertical opening?
I`m not seeing gasket, maybe the remains of gasket sealant at the edges. Is the manifold off, have you given it a good clean up to clearly see what`s happening?
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:50 PM   #36
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Greetings,
Mr. T. That's one heck of a place to have a hole! Without welding, about the only way to repair that would be to bolt a patch on....To help those that can't see it, stick a pen or pencil through the hole.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:35 PM   #37
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bottom centre left...like 3/4 circle right through the manifold...the elbow might have some life left with a good cleaning but not really worth it ...RT..would you say this could be welded? I was going to continue to remove it tomorrow and try a couple of other shops for repair. I have requested availability from Bomac and AD. I know 30 years ago caste was a difficult weld but I am completely out of touch with any improvements in the tech since I was in it.. Anyone have any parts laying around?
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:37 PM   #38
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Greetings,
Mr. T. I'm the wrong person to ask about welding. The one thing I CAN say for sure is "it's broke!" I did a quick search for welding cast iron and you're absolutely correct. A lot has changed in the last 30 years. Seems there are new "sticks" available as well as new MIG techniques but I haven't got a clue what is possible.
Surely there is some expertise in Vancouver. It may take some time to find a person/firm able to do the repair and guarantee same. Keep in mind, a high tech repair may be as much as a new replacement. Whichever, I wish you the best.
One thing you may explore is a bolt or clamp on patch of some sort. VERY difficult to suggest anything without actually seeing the part in person. This is one of those "think outside the box cases".
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:25 PM   #39
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I am a welder and I would not take the job. I've tried a variety of methods without success. Ironically, 30 years ago I watched my now deceased father repair a thin cast iron intake manifold off of Ford Ferguson tractor that was broke into 3 separate pieces. I've never repeated his feat and am not ashamed to say he was a better welder than I.
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:38 AM   #40
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The elbow is a relatively inexpensive part from AD or Bomac less than $250 if memory serves. It is my understanding that the manifolds no longer exist so replacing it is going to require some digging.
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