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Old 07-04-2015, 11:22 AM   #1
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Ford Lehman electric fuel pump

For any one who has rigged one or researched it...searching the past threads don't have spec numbers in the...just pump models usually.

What specs do you have to meet, not exceed?

Flow requirement is pretty obvious and easy to meet...but any answers on bypass or the max pressure, etc..etc?

Thanks
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:09 PM   #2
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I have set up numerous engines with electric pumps when the mech pump failed and none was available. Rarely could I find a spec for pressure, so it was guesswork. My default guess was 5psi. This was for smaller low hp engines and gennies. It always worked.

High output engines generally run higher fuel pressure, those are different.

But pretty much anything that uses a diaphragm pump, 5psi should be ok.

Never did it on a Lehman, though.
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:23 PM   #3
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We have a Perkins 6.3544M 135hp that has been using an electric pump as its sole source of pumping fuel for 15 years. Last week I replaced the old Walbro model 6802 series electric pump that is no longer available with it new replacement a FRB 13-2 12V DC 6.0-8.0 pressure. The old pump was still working great but at 15 years I thought it was time and kept it as a spare. Here is a link to one of the many sites selling them....Walbro FRB-13 Industrial & Marine Fuel Pump from Fuel-Pumps.net
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:24 PM   #4
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Because the Lehman only uses a fraction of the flow, I am guessing most have internal bypass or on demand like the Walbro?
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:32 PM   #5
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Most either have an internal bypass, or are fully capable of operating at shutoff. But you do want to be careful spec'ing the pump so this feature is understood. I have used the square Facet pump with success, just need to verify it's gph is sufficient. It can operate at shutoff.
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:46 PM   #6
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Those Walbro pumps look excellent. I currently have SW pumps on my Lehmans. They're plumbed for use as priming/ bleeding pumps and have switches to keep them unpowered when not needed, but turning the valve to put them into "bleed" mode would allow them to be used as engine feed pumps. They also cycle off when up to pressure. I think 5 psi is typical.

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Old 07-04-2015, 01:47 PM   #7
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One of these as it is also backup for my Westerbeke

About | Motor Components, LLC | Facet Purolator
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:03 PM   #8
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I used the Facet pump in post #7 and just reciently switched to the newer squaresh pumps of the same brand.
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:38 PM   #9
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Bay Pelican has a Lehman Super 135 and we use a Walbro FRB 13-2 12V DC 6.0-8.0 pressure. Wonderful pump.
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:26 PM   #10
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How is that set up? Does the old pump stay on the engine? What circuit does it wire into, or is there a separate pump switch that is turned on to run the engine?
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:44 PM   #11
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We made up a 3/8" thick aluminum plate to cover that bolted over the old fuel pump hole. The positive feed for the new pump was taken off the ignition switch so it is energized when in the on position.

Best part is no chance of fuel leaking into the engine from a bad diaphragm and just turn the ignition switch on to prime new fuel filters.
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:09 AM   #12
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The Vetus Mitsubishi's come standard with an electric fuel pump. They are top quality and cost a fortune direct from Vetus. I expect they are much cheaper buying direct from the manufacturer. Facet "Gold Flo"

Gold Flo | Motor Components, LLC | Facet Purolator

You will never have to bleed your fuel lines again. I don't even have to pre-fill my fuel filters. Just turn on the key and let the pump do it's business.

The only negative I can see is the risk of a leaky/damaged fuel line. Rather than the engine stalling due to air in the system, the leak could go undetected longer. Keep your fuel lines in good condition.

This happened to me with an old V8 Jeep I once had. The fuel line split just upstream of the carburettor, filling the intake manifold valley with gasoline. It backfired trying to re-start it causing a fire. Luckily the radiator hose blew out and extinguished the blaze, and damage was limited to rubber components and paint on the hood.
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Old 07-05-2015, 06:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike66 View Post
How is that set up? Does the old pump stay on the engine? What circuit does it wire into, or is there a separate pump switch that is turned on to run the engine?
Bay Pelican's is set up as a back up/priming pump. There is a three way valve which selects which pump is operative. The electric pump requires a switch be thrown.

Backup great, priming wonderful. When I had a air leak in the fuel line is was able to overcome the air leak and pressurize the line with fuel.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:43 AM   #14
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For anyone using elec fuel pumps, a bit of advice: Always carry a spare. I have replaced scads of these over the years in the engine business. If a spare was on the boat it would be a 15minute fix. Otherwise it's a 2day wait for ups or drive all over looking for one.
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:49 PM   #15
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Just recently changed out the fuel pump on a Onan mdl3 15kw gen to a "square" electric pump. All good, ran great, big smiles, happy. Let it run all night, next day got a low OP shutdown. Checked the oil, it was mostly diesel. Ok, bad injector seal. Take the pump in have it done. $950 later I have a like new pump. Install said IP. All good, etc. Next day low OP shutdown. Oil is mostly diesel. Well, turns out that particular IP doesnt like to much feed pressure and the pump I used was about 5 lbs. On the brightside my gen engine is REALLY clean. I installed a return line regulator set at 3 lbs.
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:45 PM   #16
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When I was searching pumps....I think a Catalina forum was really bad mouthing the little square, inexpensive Purolater pumps.

Even the guy from Purolater said there was a very high return rate but zero for the better pumps.

Just me info...not verified past those couple tidbits.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:11 PM   #17
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I installed an electric pump as a primer, bleed assist/emergency pump 7 years ago. I located it after the tank(s) outlet but before the fuel line where it splits to the filters for the generator and engine. Priming, bleeding the system(s) or dealing with air leaks is easy. I didn't have a 3 way valve at the time so I used two ball valves. When the pump is off, it is out of the loop. I've ran the pump for about 16 hours one time when I had an air leak. I wasn't worried about locating it before the filters since it is/was not installed to replace the mechanical lift pump plus one pump can run the engine or generator. I looked for a part number but couldn't find it. And please no grief about the crappy hose clamp in the lower left.
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