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Old 01-14-2015, 10:34 AM   #21
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oil use can be increased by running angle. My dipsticks were mismarked with the full maker spec oil level they used oil until they got to the level they liked due to the install angle they oil use went way down.


I suggest letting it go down and see if it still continues to use oil.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:11 PM   #22
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Xbank wrote;
"Now I would tie her tight to the dock and run it under load to warm it up, then run it at wot in gear for 5 minutes while I monitor with my infra-red heat gun."

WOT tied to the "dock" is very overloaded IMO. I can't get anywhere near rated rpm tied to the float. And I'm not over propped. If a boat was overpropped it would be even worse. To run 5 min at WOT one needs to be at rated rpm. I think your'e advice is very good except that it should be done at rated rpm.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:54 PM   #23
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Running the boat at WOT , loaded in gear, tied to the dock is BAD advice.
.There will be a huge strain on the cleats, the lines, and the dock tie point.
If anything gives way the boat will surge ahead smashing into something, another boat or the dock. There will almost guaranteed be damage.

WOT in gear under load should be done out in the harbour. That may mean you need a helper to run the boat while you do your tests.

Running at the dock , tied, under low load just above idle is another matter. Even then you may be surprised how hard the boat pulls on those lines so do not leave and be ready to kill it.
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:42 PM   #24
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Driftless said-
Trouble is, those shops are going out of business - the availability of inexpensive replacements over the internet is killing them.

That's a great point. There is a shop in Baton Rouge I have used since last century 😊, Kents Diesel. Ronald Kent had worked for the bigger shops back when they were open, but has been solo now for about 10 years and in business about 20. He is a great choice for most any old school diesel fuel systems. I can provide contact info if anyone is interested.


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Old 01-14-2015, 09:51 PM   #25
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This engine produces about 80 HP. Not a Diamond Series Cummins. Do you really think it will rip the marina apart? Has your marina ever weathered a storm? Tie some knots? Put some extra ropes on it? Put the bow against something?

WOT should equal rated rpm. If it doesn't, go to rated rpm. I've never had a boat that wouldn't get rated RPM at wot, but YMMV. Anyway, you don't think that I am suggesting that you just jam the power lever wide open and stand back, do you?

You can't go charging around at full throttle with someone in the engine room. Just tie it to the dock. Or a piling, or an immovable object, like Obama.

The idea is to push the engine to its rated rpm and horsepower to see if it is in good enough condition to achieve its ratings. If it has been damaged by overheating or poor cooling or whatever,the weakness will show and then you fix it. None of us run our engines flat out because we are too fussed with hurting them or burning too much fuel or making too much noise or smoke, but they were designed, in this case, to make 80 hp, at about 2400 rpm? (That's a guess for you with manuals). I'll bet that this engine hasn't had to make 80 horsepower for, well, ever. They are designed for wot, not some theoretical percentage of it.

The alternative is to do nothing, it will fail if it is planning to, probably at an inopportune time, like crossing a bar. Or rip it apart and rebuild it. Throw money at it before you know what it needs.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:07 PM   #26
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Good point about the oil, all marinized Lehmans came with the original dipstick. Then they were tilted at that angle they all sit at to drive the boat. That resulted in chronic overfilling of the oil, which the engine doesn't like. Burying a journal in oil results in thrashing the oil until it blows out of the breather or if you are unlucky, a seal. This continues until the level of oil in the engine reaches the correct level and the consumption stops. The solution to all Lehman dipstick issues is to do an oil change and measure the proper amount of oil that the manual demands, then wait a little while and re-mark the dipstick with a file or similar. You will now reduce your oil consumption, unless your engine really is worn out, which is very unlikely.

One other bit of Lehman trivia, that oil leak that appears to be coming from the head or the pan or the rear seal? Dollars to doughnuts it's actually coming out of the lift pump gasket. Really. If you doubt me, go and look closely at yours, or just change it anyway as it's probably due, then be amazed at the clean oil diapers. The oil migrates all over the block and congregates in seams and such, then it drips off, looking for all the world like a leak from wherever it gathers. The pump/block mounting point is very flimsy. You'll see it when you take your pump off. You do have a spare pump, right? They are cheap at about $80 but can ruin your fun.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:15 PM   #27
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If you have Lehmans which continually send coolant out the overflow (and/or the cap itself) after you have the level right, try changing the caps. I suspected mine were original and spring weak, 30years+, bought new ones from AD (ridiculously low psi, 4 from memory), problem solved. We check but rarely need to add coolant.
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:29 AM   #28
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Too right, the caps are probably ancient. A really good mod is the American Diesel coolant overflow kit. It comes with a new neck and a bottle and hose so you can do away with the coolant that usually ends up in the bilge, it all goes back into the engine. Cheap, if I remember correctly.
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Old 01-15-2015, 04:28 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftless View Post
Johan:

...
Those old Fords tended to use lube oil - a Lehman 6 (120 hp, if memory serves...) used a quart in a 24 hour day. I re-ringed 'er and it still used a quart a day. It also leaked a lot. Just made 'er hard to love.

Testing injectors is best done at a fuel injection shop. You may be amazed at the improvement in performance - easier starting and less smoke. Just drop 'em off and "test and service as necessary" then smile at the thought of thousands of hours of steaming in your future. Trouble is, those shops are going out of business - the availability of inexpensive replacements over the internet is killing them.

I say: "Keep calm and cruise on".

Good Luck!

JS


Great Advice John,

Thank you.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:39 AM   #30
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Greetings,
An inexpensive alternative to the AD overflow kit is a remote translucent vessel connected to the overflow. One can easily see anything that is spewed out the expansion tank and the spewage is contained in the bottle to be put back in the expansion tank as necessary.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:51 AM   #31
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RT,
I figured my boat came with the AD recovery bottle already installed. Is this the translucent tank you speak of??Click image for larger version

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Old 01-15-2015, 10:04 AM   #32
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That looks like it. Th AD kit consists of a plastic recovery bottle and metal holder, a replacement header tank neck insert and cap (the stock neck and cap won't allow coolant to be pulled back into the header tank), the necessary plastic tubing and the installation instructions.

We bought a pair of these kits soon after buying the boat. To date I've been too lazy to install them as our extended overflow tubes into a pair of plastic bottles in the sump pans that we pour periodically back into the header tanks works just fine....
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:13 AM   #33
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Greetings,
Mr. F. That is indeed a translucent tank similar to what I was suggesting and it may well be the AD "kit" overflow tank but as I understand it, with the AD adaption, the existing expansion tank (ET) neck insert is replaced with an AD supplied insert (new one hast to be epoxied in after OEM is removed) and the ET automatically refills on engine cool down. It's hard to tell IF you have an AD "kit".
What I did with a previous Lehman was run the existing overflow tube into a tank similar to what you pictured. The OEM ET insert did NOT allow backflow from the translucent tank into the ET on cooling and the ET had to be manually refilled from the translucent tank BUT it was VERY cheap, kept any overflow out of the bilge and allowed me to monitor fluid levels.
Aw rats, Mr. Marin was too fast for me...Dad-gummed fast professional keying skills...
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:10 PM   #34
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Thanks for the follow up gentlemen- mine does siphon back when cool.
I think it was on this thread earlier a post mentioning that without a recovery bottle that sometimes the tank gets filled repeatedly and heats/expands- and gets refilled again. Thus resulting in a "loss" of coolant😊. And it would sure seem so...


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Old 01-15-2015, 06:44 PM   #35
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You guys with plastic coolant bottles- Best way to know it is working is to see level rise as engine heats up, and go back down with engine cooling down.

Many of these recovery bottles don't work due to bad or wrong cap, plugged ports, bottle mounted too low, or leaks anywhere.

Seeing the level move with temp swing tells you all is well.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:03 PM   #36
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If you follow the directions you get with the kit, easy and they work. You get a new cap in the kit.

If the system is not closed, you will also lose coolant by evaporation too as water is 50% of the coolant.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:51 PM   #37
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The expansion tank on the engine has plenty of room for normal function. I think the remote expansion is to insure that the cooland in the engine has no air in it. If you use the remote tank and operate it such that the tank has some coolant in it when the engine is cold the expansion tank on the engine will be 100% full of water always and therefore there will be no air in the system. I'm not very clear about the airless system advantage. I think it has something to do w oxidation in the presence of air. One may get the same benifit from changing their coolant a bit more often.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:01 PM   #38
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Yep, corrosion inhibitors in coolant scavenge dissolved oxygen. The remote bottle limits how much O2 gets into engine coolant inventory with each thermal cycle. It is worth having one if engine has suitable plumbing.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:31 PM   #39
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Greetings,
"... The remote bottle limits how much O2 gets into..." Yup, got one of them installed in my brain. Good thing it only works intermittently.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:57 PM   #40
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Here's a cool fact- one purpose of a radiator cap is to raise the pressure in the cooling system. This raises the boiling temperature above 212 F.

Another example is a pressure cooker. Once water starts to boil the temperature doesn't increase. By adding pressure you can increase the temp beyond 212 which helps it to cook faster.


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