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Old 04-04-2013, 07:00 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
Most heat exchanger can be taken apart , rodded out (use a proper sized dowel) and reassembled for only the cost of a gasket or O ring set.

No acid required.
This was kinda my plan too.

I think I am using the wrong terminology. What I flushed out last weekend was the fresh water tank and not the raw water H/E. What is it called? The manifold?
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:38 AM   #22
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"Rodding out" the heat exchanger only cleans, not necessarily completely, one side of the system, and risks damaging the tubes. Sometimes used as a last step once the solution has loosened things up. It does not address the other side where significant scale and growth can build up. Actually, ultrasonic cleaning is the current state of the art but you have to send it out.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:04 AM   #23
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I have seen most boaters here r & r them and have a radiator shop do an acid bath, rinse and pressure test. It isn't expensive and worth the pressure test.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:31 AM   #24
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I run a product called CLR through the outboard on my ski boat every time i get back home. Last year I stripped down the outboard and shaved the heads and to do the rings and bearings etc etc etc and the water jackets were as good as they were from day one.

Not sure if its available over there but if it is, give it a go, it's awesome! I'll absolutely be using it in AXE when it's time

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_Lime_Rust

Less savage than Hydrochloric Acid and won't eat ya block or heads.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:28 AM   #25
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Just came back from local Volvo dealer and picked up their newesy catalog. It clearly states that their eco friendly flushing fluid consists of citric acid and a neutralizer. So it could be used...
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:23 PM   #26
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If the purpose is to clean the entire coolant system then I would use one of the well known brand name products, like Volvo or Fleetguard (Cummins). Their products are designed to clean without damaging other parts, like seals, gaskets or metal parts. If using acids then there is no telling what can be damaged...

For the HE only, I would have no problem using the acids.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:19 PM   #27
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Is it ok to flush the fresh water side with regular tap water or should you use distilled or soft water? If you flush three or four time and have to use distilled or soft water it could be quite a chore hauling all that water to the boat. It would seem that you could use tap water for all the flushes with the exception of the last flush and then use soft water for that one.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:00 AM   #28
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It would seem that you could use tap water for all the flushes with the exception of the last flush and then use soft water for that one. __________________

Works for me , tho most folks choose to forget that the antifreeze should be changed out every 2 or 3 years .

And flushing is REQUIRED , at least according to the folks that mixed the antifreeze.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:26 AM   #29
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There is something to be said about zero soft water, which distilled is. It will clean without soap and there are commercial carpet cleaners who only use distilled water to clean carpets. The water that comes off from the first cleaning will be soapy and black if that is their first zero res cleaning. It takes a lot of cleaning to get clear water off it too.

We have a green machine I use to clean my boat cushions and beds with. I only use distilled water in it. You would be amazed at how clean and fresh they are after cleaning with only distilled water. I'll only spot dirty or greasy spots.

Try it with tap water and then finish with distilled, it takes a lot of distilled to clean it.

I can buy distilled water for 80-90 cents a gallon here so I stick with distilled only. It's less than a 20 to flush and fill for me, not counting the antifreeze.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:41 PM   #30
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Is this thread confusing the coolant system and the raw water cooling system?? Coolant can be flushed with acid or detergent-based cleaners...for example, Cummins/FleetGuard makes Restore (best for oily/greasy contamination) and RestorePLus (where rust/scale deposits is more the issue). Success with these requires running the engine at operating temps for up to (but not exceeding) 3 hours, then freshwater flushing and refilling with an anti-freeze/anti-corrosion coolant additive.

Fresh water flushing of the raw water side is totally different. Just flushing with fresh water and leaving the raw water system charged with fresh water when back at the dock is a BoatDiesel recommended practice if you can manage it. Annual rod'ing of heat exchangers and aftercoolers is good preventative maintenance too. But if you experience a step-up over normal operating temps, a full-system flush (preferably circulating) with one of the established products like BarnacleBuster, TracEcologic or similar could be the appropriate first step.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:02 PM   #31
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Aquabelle....in my case (Post #27) I was referring to the antifreeze coolant side, which I refer to as the fresh water side (not seawater side). But maybe that is the wrong interpretation.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:24 PM   #32
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Jerry: I understood your post correctly...and to answer your specific question, no problem at all with flushing with regular tap water so long as you final-fill with anti-freeze-treated distilled/demineralised water.
rgds

(nice looking Tolly btw !)
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