FL 120 mounts

[Dixie Life]

Well I've put it off as long as I can; it's time to replace the bad wood and mounts on the engine. I'm gonna tackle the job myself; afraid to even ask what a yard would charge. So, all advice will be greatly appreciated.
The plan is to use a chain hoist to lift the engine just enough to remove/replace the wood and install new mounts. Not sure yet what size/type of beam to hang the hoist on. So if any of you have done this on your own (probably a dozen of you guys) gave me some direction. Thanks

 

[psneeld]

When I did my Cat 3208s in my sportfish....which are a lot heavier...

I used 4x6 lumber spanning the engine hatches....and used long galvanized full eye (welded shut) bolts up through the beams with shackles on the bottom to the engine lifting eyes. using a little grease on the nuts holding the eye bolts in place...I could raise the engines with one finger using a box end wrench on the eye bolt nuts.

You only need to raise the engine a few inches...if that.

Many people I have heard just replace one at a time and don't even bother supporting the engine any other way...I might use a little shoring below...but with a Lehman...when I do it I may just go replace the one at a time route and don't worry about the torque for the couple hrs it takes to do the work.

 

[TONTOROSS]

What about using a West system epoxy, starting about 1" frm the bottom?

 

[Capt.Bill11]

You can just jack up one end at a time and slip a board or two under the eng./trans and change two mounts at a time them jack up the other end and change those mounts.

If you go the beam and chain fall route, I found buying a cheap small DC winch at HD to do the lifting worked great.

 

[meridian]

I vote for a small bottle jack. That's how I adjusted my shaft alignment.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I've done this before one at a time.

I ran up two corner mounts as far as they would go. Then I lowered another corner raising the corner not mentioned yet. With my engine and mounts (both Yanmar) I was able to raise one corner as per above, remove the old mount and install a new one. By manipulating the mounts as described above I was able to replace all four mounts.

 

[Brooksie]

Agree that small bottle jack, plenty of various size blocks, and long arms, is the best way, no hoist needed.
Get the good shear type mounts like the ones from PYI, they are worth it, I am very happy with mine.

When you say replace wood, do you mean engine bed wood? Picture

 

[LarryM]

When I recently changed the engine mounts and aligned the shaft in my boat, I rigged a 4x4 beam diagonally across the pilothouse supported by vertical 4x4 posts wedged into the corners. I used shelf brackets to secure the beam to the posts. It was then very easy to use an inexpensive winch and the lifting bracket on the engine. Quick and safe. I suspect saw horses could be used too if they were heavy enough.

 

[Dixie Life]

Yes, the wood the mounts are bolted to is rotting away. Even though the stringers are encased in fiberglass, in the mount area the top of the stringer is only exposed wood. The mounts are lag bolted directly to the wood. I'll try to get some pics this weekend.

 

[Brooksie]

The engine beds are cross bolted to the stringers? You may have to lift the engine higher to get at those bolts.

 

[Dixie Life]

I'm not sure what you are saying. The engine and the mounts are sitting on; what I call stringers that run fore and aft. The mounts are lag bolted down into the stringers.

 

[Dixie Life]

I'm not following you. The engine and the mounts are sitting on; what I call; stringers that run fore and aft. The mounts are bolted down into the stringers.