Exhaust hose removal

[Nomad Willy]

I need to remove an 18" (approx) exhaust hose that spans the distance between the top of the riser off the engine manifold and the lift muffler. It's a very stiff hose 2 1/2" ID and about a year ago I was going to replace it but couldn't make it move on either end. Aborted the replacement.

Now I want to remove it to insert a flex pipe section. It looks like the installation was made using some kind of white goop. I think my only option is through mechanical means and whatever the goop was/is has been baked on there for almost 10 years. Any ideas?

 

[HopCar]

Eric since you're going to replace it, just cut it. I use a Dremel tool to slit the hose length wise, then start prying with a screw driver. You might have to heat it to break the goop free, I'm thinking heat gun.

 

[DHeckrotte]

Saw it out. Then go after the bits remaining adhered to the barbs; you should be able to abuse it into submission. Failing that, cut the bit remaining longitudinally using your Dremel; don't damage the barbs.

 

[stanfromhell]

If the hose has a wire spiral it can be cut with a good pair of side cutters. i cut my hose with a few passes of a good sharp lino knife I bought at Home Depot

 

[bnoft]

I used a Dremel tool to cut thru the wire reinforcement.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Thank you much guys,

Oh yes I'm going to cut it.
The problem is that the hose ID is really stuck to the 2 1/2" pipe, SS at the riser and FG at the lift pump. Actually at the lift pump it's a 90 degree FG L. And HopCar I initially thought of heat but it is rubber. That will make lots of smoke but that's prolly what I'll have to do. If the L comes loose first at the lift muff I'll just get another L.

The very rigid hose has sent the vibration directly to the lift muffler and it's loose on it's base. Need to fix that too.

Another thought is to cut the hose w a hack saw at the riser and after I remove the start batt (easy) I could just remove the lift muff w the hose, L and all. Deal w it out of the engine compartment.

No ideas as to what the white goop is? It was installed in a yard but the guys the did the repower. Professionally done that is. Hope it's not 5200.

Dheckroot,
Where do you think there will be barbs? I like your "abuse it into submission" suggestion. Get physical w it .... Got it. Already done that but will need to up the anti and/or apply heat. Worst case scenario is buying a new L and lift muff. When I get it appart it may come to that anyway. Less than 1000hrs on it so it's hard to imagine the muff needs replacement.

 

[sdowney717]

I use white teflon pipe dope on the rubber hoses so they do not get stuck and never seen it harden. Get it from HDepot.
RectorSeal T Plus 2 4 oz. Teflon Pipe-Thread Sealant-23631 - The Home Depot

 

[bayview]

it probably is 5200 and it seems to have worked well. A wire wheel on the end of a drill will remove much of the goop after you cut off the hose. A little research should tell you if 5200 sticks to cured 5200. If so I would use it again without perfect cleaning of the joints.

 

[sdowney717]

it probably is 5200 and it seems to have worked well. A wire wheel on the end of a drill will remove much of the goop after you cut off the hose. A little research should tell you if 5200 sticks to cured 5200. If so I would use it again without perfect cleaning of the joints.

5200 does stick well to cured 5200.
But using 5200 makes it very hard to take anything apart again.
For exhaust hose all you need is a hose clamp and one for a backup.

 

[DHeckrotte]

Eric, I used barbs as a quick lazy way to write about the fittings. They really don't have barbs, like a fishhook or a fence, but they have variously aggressive annular corrugations or even teeth to help retain the hose on the fitting.

 

[Bacchus]

Thank you much guys,

No ideas as to what the white goop is? It was installed in a yard but the guys the did the repower. Professionally done that is.
Hope it's not 5200.

If it is 5200 some heat will help break that loose... a heat gun should be a little easier to control vs torch

 

[Nomad Willy]

Thanks all,
I have a good heat gun but it would seem I'd need to heat the entire joint all the way around before it will move. Perhaps the reason I failed to break it loose last time is that both ends are attached and the hose is so stiff end A kept end B from rotating. So I'll cut the riser end and work on the muffler end w/o the riser end attached .. preventing radial movement. Or as I said before I'll take the whole muff and pipe out.

I'll clean it up best I can and put the new hose on .. w the clamps. Gotta get it appart so I can tell National Marine Exhaust how long to make the flex unit. Don't know how much pipe is inside the hose. Need to do the VHF antenna first though.

Thanks again all. Will report in several days.