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Old 03-05-2013, 01:54 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Gooper zinc?
That should be Grouper Anode. I went back and changed.

thanks
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:03 PM   #22
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Most engine are wired/connect to the zinc loop with a fairly big wire. I know my Perkins gen set is. If not and/or you are still concerned you can hang of zinc Grouper with a clip and hang it over the side.
How is that going to protect the internal parts of the engine cooling loop?
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:06 PM   #23
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Greetings,
You're a BAD man Mr. Rick B.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:43 PM   #24
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You're a BAD man Mr. Rick B.
Just wondering is all ...
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:21 PM   #25
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I agree that zincs should be fitted per the manufacturer's instructions, though I remain confused why some engine require anodes and some do not. While our Cummins and Westerbeke both have zincs, the Yanmar 56HP wing engine has no zincs. It took several phone calls to convince me that there really is no zinc required. Supposedly the engine and its attached Saildrive (SD50) do not require zincs because of some internal Yanmar magic coating or "special" alloys. Beats me!!
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:47 PM   #26
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That should be Grouper Anode. I went back and changed.

thanks
Phil: I had one of those darned things attached to my rudder arm when I was worried about the condition of my 5" rudder zink (the only one I have). I could never see any signs of deterioration and I was always having to clean the slime off the thing. Several times I left it on while underway. After making sure everything was bonded, I finally threw it to the fishes.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #27
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We use a zinc on a heavy cable hung about six feet underwater off the side of our boat. The other end is clamped to one of the rudder bars and thus the boat's bonding system in the lazarette.

This is a common and recommended practice in our marina because of the almost constant presence of a thick layer of fresh or brackish water on top of the salt water at the head of the bay. On boats like ours the transom zincs are almost always in this layer of fresh water.

We use old transom zincs on the cable and they go away and stay clean (no slime or algae) just like the zincs on the boat. Makes a great and easy check to make sure conditions in the water and on the boat have not changed. My wife made a big fabric "STOP ZINC" stop sign that we hang on the shifters whenever the zinc is down as a reminder to pull it up before getting underway.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:08 PM   #28
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Lehman 120 has a zink on the heat exchanger.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:19 PM   #29
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Greetings,
As well as heat exchanger I've got zincs in the oil and transmission coolers as well (Lehman).
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:28 PM   #30
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There are no pencil zincs in exchangers on my Perkins 135's
That's odd.... My 1979 Perkins 6.354's both have pencil zincs in the heat exchangers...and they are 135 NA's...
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:41 PM   #31
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That's odd.... My 1979 Perkins 6.354's both have pencil zincs in the heat exchangers...and they are 135 NA's...
Mine too. Vintage 1986.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:17 PM   #32
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That's odd.... My 1979 Perkins 6.354's both have pencil zincs in the heat exchangers...and they are 135 NA's...
What's odd about that? At this point in time he may not have any pencil zincs left!
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:43 PM   #33
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That's odd.... My 1979 Perkins 6.354's both have pencil zincs in the heat exchangers...and they are 135 NA's...
I just had my manicooler on the port engine ceramic coated, Greenwater marine exhaust who did the work will as part of their service add zincs. I chose not to have them added to mine. But anytime a heat exchanger is serviced adding zincs may be a option.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #34
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Greetings,
Mr. RC. Please tell me more about the ceramic coating of your cooler. I'm assuming your water cooled exhaust manifold. If not, what? Advantages? Cost? Reason?
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:14 PM   #35
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Greetings,
Mr. RC. Please tell me more about the ceramic coating of your cooler. I'm assuming your water cooled exhaust manifold. If not, what? Advantages? Cost? Reason?
The weak spot on the marinization of the Hino diesels is the aluminium exhaust manifold / heat exchanger (manicooler). The engine is mounted with the front higher than the flywheel end & anything in the antifreeze that settles out lays on the #6 exhaust runner. This material will over time corrode the runner & allow antifreeze to enter the combustion chamber when the engine is not running, which leads to expensive repairs. Changing the antifreeze every other year helps prevent this. Having the manicooler ceramic coated will prevent this from ever happening. The cost of the manicooler at $10,000.00 is what makes this a wise preventative maintenance practice. There is a aftermarket supplier now but the cost is still $4,500.00. I plan on pulling the SB side & have it done this fall. You have to remove the manicooler to get the tubing bundle out to clean & test so that is a good time to send it off for the coating.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:36 PM   #36
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Greetings,
Thank you. WOW $10K!
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:22 AM   #37
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Would it be accurate to sum this up by saying that if the manufacturer calls for anodes on the engine or cooling system components, you should install and maintain them and if the manufacturer does not call for anodes, you don't need them?
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:00 PM   #38
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1972 Perkins 6.354s Zincs on raw water side of the heat exchangers. Had to replace heat exchangers due to PO's neglect on the zincs.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:39 PM   #39
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I have a question, my Westerbeke 8BTD gen has pencil anodes in the heat exchanger. Last fall while doing winter layup I tried to buy a replacement for freshwater & the parts dept. couldn't find any from the distributor. Saltwater were available but she couldn't locate a source for freshwater. Has anyone else encountered this, if so what did you do?
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:04 PM   #40
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Try this website:
Pencil Zinc replacement Aluminum Pencil Anodes, Navalloy, Secure Core,
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