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Old 09-10-2013, 10:28 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 993guy View Post
Why don't you just use the "Quote" (Reply with Quote) button on the bottom right of the post?
Couldn't agree more! A lot of the time when I read FF's posts I don't know if he's quoting someone or making his own statement. FF, please learn how to use the quote button! It'll make your TF experience much more rewarding. (AND OURS!)
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:08 AM   #22
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I like to write "FF wrote" "..................."

I use the "Edit" function and go to "copy" or "Paste". Highlight what I want copied .. click copy (under edit) and position the curser arrow where I want the quote to start and click paste.

I can by that means be very selective about what I quote and the amount I quote.

I put this in simple terms so everybody will comprehend.

There are times where posting all of a post is appropriate though.

Opps .... thread creep.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:39 AM   #23
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Eric, you do realize you can save several steps by using quote post then highlighting what you don't wish to appear then hitting the backspace or delete buttons? Much faster, no typing, absolute clarity without any hint of ambiguity.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:56 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
OR, buy a $10 keyboard and plug it into your USB port. Using a $6 (on sale) remote keyboard for this post.
Curious, does this feature not show up on your screens?
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Eric, you do realize you can save several steps by using quote post then highlighting what you don't wish to appear then hitting the backspace or delete buttons? Much faster, no typing, absolute clarity without any hint of ambiguity.
Like this....
Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post

I can by that means be very selective about what I quote and the amount I quote.

I put this in simple terms so everybody will comprehend.

There are times where posting all of a post is appropriate though.

Opps .... thread creep.


Quote:
I put this in simple terms so everybody will comprehend.
even simpler......

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Old 09-10-2013, 02:07 PM   #26
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Spend the coin. Back to engine replacement cost? Ballpark?
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:42 PM   #27
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Wow- what a derailment!
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:30 PM   #28
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Actually there is/was a place in Crisfield ,MD that would do Cat 3208's for around 6 grand. There was some misc charges by he marina next door for holding your slip and forking the engine out...but all in all the deal of the century...and the place is/was a world renown cat rebuilder.
T & S Marine 410-968-2970

Everything Psneeld said and more. Most of their business is waterman and commercial boating. Better do it right to keep them happy! They routinely sell and ship engines to foreign countries. They are a volume no nonsense business that rebuilds Cat, Cummins, Detroit, etc. right now, not next month.

Ted
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:26 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPseudonym View Post
Eric, you do realize you can save several steps by using quote post then highlighting what you don't wish to appear then hitting the backspace or delete buttons? Much faster, no typing, absolute clarity without any hint of ambiguity.
I had attempted the same procedure that Eric is using until Flywright straitened me out. Using the "Quote" button is absolutely the best way! (IMO)
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
T & S Marine 410-968-2970

Everything Psneeld said and more. Most of their business is waterman and commercial boating. Better do it right to keep them happy! They routinely sell and ship engines to foreign countries. They are a volume no nonsense business that rebuilds Cat, Cummins, Detroit, etc. right now, not next month.

Ted
Thanks...no one believed that a good deal could exist...

Just look what the thread evolved into...go figure....
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:18 AM   #31
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The problem with an engine swop is many boats were NOT built to ever do a swop.

If the engine is under the stern deck, like on a sport fish , a change every 1000 hours is no big deal.

If like on lobster boats there is an engine hatch with a matching hatch in the overhead , no big deal getting the crane hook to work.

On boats with complex interiors and no hatches the job becomes a massive woodwork project , besides a R&R .
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:23 AM   #32
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The ER on a Mikelson Sport Fisher is accessed by electrically controlled hatches. (2) This allows you to stand up when performing maintenance or changing out an engine. Since the engines are mounted all the way aft, a cellar (storeroom) is created with an entrance at the companionway stairs for washer dryer, tool storage, etc. Although she's a sport fisher, the ladies really like the interiors. (No, I have no monetary connection with Mikelson nor have I ever owned one. )
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:37 AM   #33
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When I looked at a re-power on a boat that we ultimately didn't buy, we were looking at about $17K for a John Deere 100 HP 4 cylinder replacing a 270 HP Volvo. Working with a John Deere dealer and going through the applications on Boatdiesel.com, we found that most of the 270 HP on the Volvo was not needed and the 130 HP was better matched to the boat than the original Volvo. So in re-powering one of the things I would consider is not replacing the engine with a like model, but how much horsepower is really needed and does it make sense economically to put in an engine with that horsepower.

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Old 09-13-2013, 05:40 AM   #34
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we were looking at about $17K for a John Deere 100 HP 4 cylinde

The John Deere farm folks sell factory rebuilt engines , for modest prices , and 2 or 3 times a year there is a <sale> no core charge.

For most boats I would marinize one of these with a Twin Disc tranny and run it <forever>.

Although with my keel cooler and dry stack ,no marinization is needed.

Switching to a dry stack might fit some interiors.
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Old 09-21-2013, 03:55 PM   #35
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My last boat a CA 34 had new John Deere 4045TFM engines installed in 2006 and the original receipts that came with the boat were right around $60K.
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