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Old 04-06-2016, 08:07 AM   #21
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All motor oils are thick when cold and thin when hot. There is a viscosity vs temp chart for each, with the plot for multi vis oils a bit flatter than single vis.

Anyone with Detroits has probably experienced trying to pour a cold jug of 40wt into an engine in the winter. The stuff barely comes out of the jug.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:23 AM   #22
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:37 AM   #23
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Gosh, Australia or FL cold could be Canada warm. Also, on my engines the engine mounted hand pump works much better to get out the last few liters with warm oil that the pump won't suck out.
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Old 04-06-2016, 10:39 AM   #24
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Tried once after engine was running for 5-10 minutes only. Took me almost one hour to suck the 13 liter 15-W40 via the dip stick with my hand vacuum pump.
Made that experience I do it since then hot (engine at least one hour under load) ...



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Old 04-06-2016, 10:49 AM   #25
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I have a hose connected to the drain plug and an "oil x changer" pump that doesn't mind cold thick oil.
Years ago when I had to go thru the dipstick it had to be really hot.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:23 PM   #26
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Hot! Hot! Hot!
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:10 PM   #27
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Hello Cal sailors

My original cal cruising 46 hull no 5 came with a Perkins 4.236 engine

For years I could only do max of 14 to 1600 RPM on cruising (6-7 knots)

After much trouble turns out the injectors where clogged or partially clogged

And the marine growth build up in the heatexchanger impeded cruising at higher RPM

cuz of over Heating


NOW that I've got all that resolved, the boat wants to fly

Now I can do 2200 to 2400 RPM in a heartbeat and cruise at 8.5 to 8.7 knots

And water gushes out in the back exhaust like Niagara Falls

What I have discovered now is,

After a 4 hrs trip to Catalina island, (from Marina del Rey ) a mere 28 nautical

Miles away, my engine oil is LOW and requires a top off 1 to 1.5 quarts of oil!

ITS BURNING OIL at much higher rpm

The engine runs smoothly, no overheating no black or blue smoke, good sound

I do see a slight white fog coming out of the exhaust but that may

Be from the coldness of the water and the fact the exhaust spends 1/3 of time

Underwater while cruising

But this oil loss is really annoying and worrisome

The engines runs so well though

The engine hours barely reads 1250 hrs

Had the injector pump and injectors rebuilt last year

The oil and antifreeze is clean, no cross contamination, no visible leak anywhere

Any advise?

I have not tried running at just 15-1600 to see if this persists

Would appreciate any thoughts




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Old 08-28-2016, 09:48 PM   #28
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Engine oil cooler oil leak?
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:12 PM   #29
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Perkins 4.236 consuming oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
Engine oil cooler oil leak?
How do I diagnose an oil cooler leak?




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Old 08-28-2016, 10:16 PM   #30
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I`m no mechanic, but if you pull the oil cooler you may be able to determine if oil is leaking into the water. Maybe a pressure test by a radiator repairer.
Hopefully someone more mechanical contributes to your issue.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:24 PM   #31
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I will ask and look into this

Thanks for your insight


Edwin
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:01 PM   #32
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Changing cold oil leaves much of the dirt in the oil pan and passages. I've seen oil pans that only held 1/3 of the oil because of particle buildup. The owner was oblivious.
I have a centrifuge and plumbed my engines to drain via a gear pump. Occasionally I drain the engine oil after running and centrifuge it. My plan is to greatly extend the engine life. When I have the oil tested, it comes back as almost new oil. I haven't actually changed oil in 5 years.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwmama View Post
I will ask and look into this

Thanks for your insight


Edwin

Take it to a shop and have them clean it and pressure test it.
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:38 AM   #34
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Change over to single viscosity oil if you now use multi weight.

If the oil burn expense is still too high a Viscosity thickner like Howes (at a truck stop) might help.

My guess would be the low power operation in the past may have stuck the oil scraper ring. If so lots of high power use with an immediate hot oil change might help.

It takes both heat and time for the detergents you paid for in the oil to work, so give the engine both.

The most modern oils have far better detergents to make up for the built in inefficiencies for the Air Police so a higher grade of detergent oil might help.

A bunch of oil changes back to back (25hours) might cost as much as just dumping in a quart every so often?

If the past light loading burnished the cylinder bores a compression check will show it.
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:53 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
Changing cold oil leaves much of the dirt in the oil pan and passages. I've seen oil pans that only held 1/3 of the oil because of particle buildup. The owner was oblivious.
I have a centrifuge and plumbed my engines to drain via a gear pump. Occasionally I drain the engine oil after running and centrifuge it. My plan is to greatly extend the engine life. When I have the oil tested, it comes back as almost new oil. I haven't actually changed oil in 5 years.
I read some posts on RV forums by guys running big diesels tons of miles that take the same approach. They do an oil test every 5k-7.5k miles, and only change oil when the test indicates it's required. Some engines take 40+qts of oil, and if you run a lot of miles (hours for us) that expense can add up quickly.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:32 AM   #36
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Depending on installation level engines may use oil until they get to the proper level for the installation angle. Dip sticks are not always calibrated properly for the install and factory capacity is for a flat install. You may want to try letting the oil go down a bit and see if it continues to go lower or stops using at that level.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:44 AM   #37
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OIL does not wear out , but the additive package does get consumed.

It is there for a reason.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:52 AM   #38
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SeaFoam may unstick the rings.

I don't see how anybody can justify changing oil cold. Just lazy perhaps. Like Al Johnson says .. Hot Hot Hot.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:31 AM   #39
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Eric try wrestling a 1 quart big hot oil filter from the outside of an engine and you may reconsider.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:43 AM   #40
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I pump mine out hot after an extended cruise as I feel it's more likely to have any particulate suspend in the oil and it's easier on the pump. Change the filter the next day when it's cool and pour in the new oil.

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