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Old 03-01-2016, 03:46 PM   #1
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Doing engine oil changes

Usually I pull the dipstick and pump it out. It is slow process. I have to drop a 1/4 inch tube down into the dipstick to the bottom of the pan.

I do have engine drain plug on the engine pan.
There is about 5 inches height of engine pan to keel base.
I could put a hose fitting instead of the plug with a rubber hose and run it to a valve, then gravity would drain it into a bilge bucket.

Has anyone designed their own setup like that?
Only reason I hesitate is due to catastrophe if the rubber hose or clamp failed or I accidently opened the valve.
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:54 PM   #2
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:01 PM   #3
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Greetings,
Mr. 717. Why not install a pump?

OP-6 Oil Change Pump - Reverso | Fisheries Supply
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:13 PM   #4
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The vacuum pump tanks work pretty well in those cases. You can stick the tube in and pump up the vacuum and it will continue to suck in oil while you can go about doing other things. Just stop by once in a while and give it a couple pumps.

On my engine a 1/2" ID hose about 4' long was factory installed to the bottom of the pan. I just use a hand pump and due to it's larger ID, warm oil moves pretty fast. I did not bother adding an electric oil change pump.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:44 PM   #5
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My engine has a metal tube plumbed into the pan drain. The top of the tube is about even with the middle of the head. I connect my oil change pump to it, flip the switch and in less than a minute the oil is out.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:48 PM   #6
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Same setup on my Volvo TMD 31A Ski, draws out real fast when warm. Had a Perkins 135 that had a hand pump built into the engine for draining the oil that was a nice feature.
On the Northern Lights 5 KW generator I came up with a threaded fitting and hose barb to screw in the end of the sump drain hose so I could use the extractor pump to draw out the oil.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:05 PM   #7
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On Northern Lights 5, 6kw, I just take out the dipstick tube. Held in by one 10mm screw, sealed with an oring. Take out the tube and stick in vacuum tube. I never liked the factory drain, it leaves a lot of oil in the sump.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:19 PM   #8
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I added an oil change pump to the engines and genny. With 5 gallons in each engine it was a big help. I also used the pump in reverse to fill the engines. I added an additional valve on the pump manifold to use a separate hose to empty the transmissions as well.
Oil changes were no mess.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:32 PM   #9
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Two ways I have done this, I have somewhere a blue metal topsider pump.
I have used a AC vacuum pump and a large glass jar.

I also have a Carter rotary vane gasoline pump, wonder if that would work?
It does pump diesel. Using the Carter would make it pretty simple setup.
I use the Carter as a utility fuel pump etc...would really be ideal.

The top sider pump is a pain to use, and sometimes it does not suck and I have to to repair it just to use it. One time when I was pumping the handle the entire end came off at the top.

The AC vacuum pump works well, but you got to watch it closely. I set it up using a large pickle jar.

Just remembered, I also have a Holley red marine fuel pump. Maybe that would work.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:36 PM   #10
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I have a Groco 5 port pump set up ready to go but I may not have enough clearance under the engines oil pans for a drain to hose angle fitting. Transmissions and gen. is no problem. Did you have a clearance problem ?
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
Usually I pull the dipstick and pump it out. It is slow process. I have to drop a 1/4 inch tube down into the dipstick to the bottom of the pan.

I do have engine drain plug on the engine pan.
There is about 5 inches height of engine pan to keel base.
I could put a hose fitting instead of the plug with a rubber hose and run it to a valve, then gravity would drain it into a bilge bucket.

Has anyone designed their own setup like that?
Only reason I hesitate is due to catastrophe if the rubber hose or clamp failed or I accidently opened the valve.
I had a boat years ago that had a 4 cylinder Mercruiser I/O that had a factory system exactly like that. The hose had a metal plug on the end (no valve) and was attached to the garboard drain plug. Remove the plug and pull the hose out, remove the plug and the oil drained through the hose into whatever you put under the drain.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesK View Post
I had a boat years ago that had a 4 cylinder Mercruiser I/O that had a factory system exactly like that. The hose had a metal plug on the end (no valve) and was attached to the garboard drain plug. Remove the plug and pull the hose out, remove the plug and the oil drained through the hose into whatever you put under the drain.
That is the simplest thing to do. I will have to measure and see how high up it really is.
My idea was run the hose to the valve and mount the valve on the inboard engine stringer.
Reaching the engine drain plug might be a stretch,

I will experiment with the electric fuel pump, see if it can pump engine oil.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:10 PM   #13
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I've set up many engines with a drain hose system that I consider almost idiot proof. I'm living proof you can't make anything idiot proof, idiot resistant is the best that can be done.

As with the OP I'm concerned about leaving a valve open. I'm also concerned with hose failure or the hose fitting vibrating out of the drain plug hole. All very expensive!

I use a quality hydraulic hose from the drain pan plug to a valve then to a male hydraulic coupler.

1/2 Inch NPT Steel Hydraulic Hose Female 64168933 - MSC

The hose is secured so that it cannot rotate and back out of the drain plug hole. Quality hydraulic hose will easily withstand the heat and vibration of the engine. Properly made hydraulic hoses do not use hose clamps which are prone to failure. If I forget to close the valve the worst thing that happens is the hydraulic fitting may weep a tiny bit.

On the suction end of the oil change pump is a female hydraulic fitting to match the male and another length of hose to the pump. This hose does not have to be anything special as it is not left attached to a running engine.

The oldest setup I have done has been in service for 21 yrs without a failure.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:15 PM   #14
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Having a hose from the oil pan is standard on thousands of boats I would guess...


My current boat, my last boat...many commercial boats I have run...


There is no pressure involved...just how scary can it be? Hook to a pump or gravity drain....no big deal.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Having a hose from the oil pan is standard on thousands of boats I would guess...


My current boat, my last boat...many commercial boats I have run...


There is no pressure involved...just how scary can it be? Hook to a pump or gravity drain....no big deal.
For me the scary part would be a hose failure while running. Hydraulic hoses are good. Also I have used the screw together AN fittings and stainless braid hoses with engine oils.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
For me the scary part would be a hose failure while running. Hydraulic hoses are good. Also I have used the screw together AN fittings and stainless braid hoses with engine oils.
Seems like there are so many scary things here on TF that the real world of recreational and commercial boating that I live in just don't seem to bother most captains with a handful of experience.

Wonder why here everything is so scary?

There are a bazzilion other things to worry about other than 10 inches of hose you can keep a close eye on and if you do lose oil pressure...throttle back and shut down if you must...doesn't mean you cooked an engine unless you are asleep at the wheel.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:47 PM   #17
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Scary = lack of training and expierence. Just my two cents.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:48 PM   #18
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Engine alarms are a wonderful thing for a low oil pressure situation.


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Old 03-01-2016, 09:14 PM   #19
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Volvo's dipstick tubes (at least on my 63L) go all the way to the bottom of the pan. I was informed by Dick Vosbury to just clamp a hose around the top of dipstick tube, hook up a pump, and you'll get almost all the oil out that is possible.

Not sure if other diesels are like this, but it might be something to look into.

(**and HiDHo Bill, I was just telling Bess how much I am going to miss the hand pump on our old Perkins.)
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:15 PM   #20
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I have tried the TopSider can and have found the same problem, I spend more time repairing it than using it.

This last year I ordered a hand pump from Jabsco

It came with various size hoses and I was able to slip the end of one of the hose over the dip stick tube and pump out the oil into a container. It was much faster than any of the Topsider type units I have tried and less of a mess. Cost me about $53 through Amazon and well worth it.

Fortunately, all the trawlers I am looking at have a "reverso" system installed. Sounds decadent.
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