Doing engine oil changes

[dannc]

If one can access the drain plug and there is a space to run a hose to a lower point, a drain valve will work. I have been using a valve from Fumoto USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves on my truck for around 10 years with no problems. The drain valve simply replaces the old drain plug. In my case, the added benefit is that I did not have to keep a supply of washers to put on the drain plug after every oil change. If one did not use a new washer the drain plug would drip.

The value has to be moved in two directions to open so it is very unlikely to open by accident. Having said that, I put a zip tie on mine to further reduce the chance of the valve opening.

I have NOT put on on my tractor since it climbs over stuff that could smack the valve and break it off. Not likely but not going to risk it either. If there was a chance the valve could get hit by something rolling under the engine I might not use the drain valve.

Later,
Dan

 

[kulas44]

I'm guessing if the drain valve on a boat gets knocked off by hitting something we got bigger problems ahead

 

[psneeld]

most boat main engines and generators do not have a valve installed...just a hose from the bottom of the drain pan to a level higher than the oil with a cap installed.

No need to be more complicated unless you are fearful of a hose, not under pressure leaking.

 

[Ski in NC]

most boat main engines and generators do not have a valve installed...just a hose from the bottom of the drain pan to a level higher than the oil with a cap installed.

No need to be more complicated unless you are fearful of a hose, not under pressure leaking.

Yep, no point in having a valve. Just a hose getting away from under the pan, and a cap sealing the hose unless changing oil.

If you have an oil change system, that should have valves on the manifold.

 

[timjet]

I removed the Air-Sep's from my engines and rerouted the hyd hoses used by the air-sep's that pump bypass gunk back into the oil pan to a oil change pump. I attached ball valves to each hose end, no manifold.
I also use the pump to change tranny oil.

 

[ranger58sb]

I do have engine drain plug on the engine pan.
There is about 5 inches height of engine pan to keel base.
I could put a hose fitting instead of the plug with a rubber hose and run it to a valve, then gravity would drain it into a bilge bucket.

Greetings,
Mr. 717. Why not install a pump?

OP-6 Oil Change Pump - Reverso | Fisheries Supply

Best solution since sliced bread. Ours is a multi-port Oil X-Changer (both engines, both gears, genset), but any brand probably equally useful.

I remember struggling with our single diesel back in the '90s...

Given warm engines and genset, and enough empty 5-gallon buckets, I can now drain all 5 in about 20 minutes. Refilling is a bit more leisurely, but only because of juggling the supply buckets of fresh oil and getting the levels right.

-Chris

 

[FF]

Refilling is a bit more leisurely, but only because of juggling the supply buckets of fresh oil and getting the levels right.

Sit the 5 gal pail on the engine and use a rattle syphon to move the oil.

Not fast but effortless!

 

[Shoalwaters]

Another vote for Fumoto's Qwik-Valve. It solves most all the installation problems and worries about accidental opening. Below is a link to a write-up I did some time ago.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s6/engine-oil-drain-valve-7187.html

 

[Bay Pelican]

Bay Pelican has a home made drain system. Hoses from each of the main, wing engine, genset and both transmissions to a home made manifold (1/2" brass tees) with ball valves on the manifold end of each hose. All of this is connected to a Depco small pump. Takes a couple of minutes to empty 14 quarts from the main.

Love the system.

 

[ranger58sb]

Refilling is a bit more leisurely, but only because of juggling the supply buckets of fresh oil and getting the levels right.

Sit the 5 gal pail on the engine and use a rattle syphon to move the oil.
Not fast but effortless!

Only have about 5" headroom above engines, unless I remove the saloon hatches... which in turn means moving a sleep-sofa...

Using the pump to fill is much easier.

-Chris

 

[Insequent]

I re-positioned and tidied up the oil change pump system the PO installed. Both engines and both gearboxes.

Hoses to a manifold with valves on each hose, also a valve between manifold and pump. It works really well.

 

[Shoalwaters]

Nice clean install - like it.

 

[RCook]

Greetings,
Mr. 717. Why not install a pump?

OP-6 Oil Change Pump - Reverso | Fisheries Supply

Reverso OP-4 (older version than the OP-6) is what we replaced with a Reverso 312 gear pump. The gear pump is way, way better. Not only much more powerful suction, and thus faster, especially if the oil is not good and warm - but also avoids replacing the rubber impeller, which I had to do every 2-3 summers with the OP-4.

 

[Pgitug]

I re-positioned and tidied up the oil change pump system the PO installed. Both engines and both gearboxes.

Hoses to a manifold with valves on each hose, also a valve between manifold and pump. It works really well.

Clean installation and physically down low for a better pump out. Looks great?

 

[cappy208]

Fumoto.com


Look up your engine. Order. About $30.00. Gravity works well, and I always add another quart as the original oil is finishing draining out to 'flush' the last sediment solids out. The only thing to use these is you must have enough working room around the bottom/side of the engine. I use half gallon milk jug to move the oil out of the engine pan area to a larger container. I keep the last gallon oil jug to start putting old oil into. They have two models, one with a simple hose barb (not the permanent type) to shove a hose onto for draining, the other type has threads for installing a permanent hose on. The 1/4 turn valve has a positive detent so it can't be inadvertently knocked open. The even sell a plastic safety clip to completely prevent the valve from being opened accidentally.

In retrospect, it would depend how much you want to spend on an entire 'oil change system' or just want an easier way to get oil out. For me the 'once a year' oil change does not warrant the extra money or time to invest in a stand alone oil change pump and piping. (But I only put on a couple dozen hours a year.) Maybe if I used the boat hundreds or a thousand hours a year it would be more cost effective.