DIY Turbo Rebuild: 3LD?

[R_p_ryan]

Is there any interest in a DIY article on rebuilding a Holset/Schwitzer 3LD turbo from a 1977 Perkins T6.354?

I just finished rebuilding mine and took a bunch of pictures during the process. I can post the pics and write-up the process. Is there a wiki or place in the forum for these types of articles? Attached is one of the pics

The process is not complex and I think anyone with experience working on engines could do it. It's about as complex as rebuilding a carburetor.

It's not the same as professional rebuild but it solved my problem which was excessive play. A pro rebuild would likely rebalance the wheels, machine some surfaces, and use a more precise bushing. I can't afford to purchase a rebuilt turbo, but I can afford the kit at $95.

For me though, the bushing from the kit fit perfectly and eliminated the play. It will be interesting to see how the turbo holds.

Thanks,
RR

 

[Gabe n Em]

Yeah, post it up here! I have 2 of the same turbos and will probably take them apart at some point. Some pictures to let me know what I'm getting into beforehand would be great

 

[R_p_ryan]

Yeah, post it up here! I have 2 of the same turbos and will probably take them apart at some point. Some pictures to let me know what I'm getting into beforehand would be great

Is there a wiki space, or should I just post a very long message?

 

[CDRCRASH]

Where did you find the kit and what other pictures do you have

 

[CPseudonym]

Is there a wiki space, or should I just post a very long message?

Just post it as a long message or series of messages. After you do so perhaps a moderator can make this thread a sticky in the engine section as I'm sure most members are not aware how attainable this project is to the somewhat skilled DIY'er.

 

[R_p_ryan]

It's really not that hard. At first I just took photos as I took it apart. Then I found the directions in the Perkins shop manual. I got the kit from China, on Aliexpress after searching for Schweitzer 3ld. The kit was like $75 and showed up within a week. Definitely within reach of a confidently DIYer. I'll put together a PDF doc with all the pictures and post it.

It was remarkable how much play was in the wheel before and after. Apparently this is also a cause of low oil pressure, as the oil will easily pass around worn bearings.

But I haven't installed it yet so I can't vouch for the rebuild. After some sea trials I'll be more (hopefully) confident recommending the process.

 

[Driftless]

R.P.:
Good for you! Ordinarily turbocharger rebuilding is something I don't touch, as the warranty is something we don't want to deal with, but for a DIY'er it's certainly worth the try.

Please let us know how it works out.

BTW: The turbo on "Rise 'n Shine" is obviously recently changed. Furthermore, when I winterized, I discovered the outlet elbow from the turbo (which goes from the turbocharger to the wet elbow) was completely rotted through, and the wet elbow was only held in place by the exhaust hose. No wonder I smelled exhaust...

J.S.

 

[DavidM]

Be careful as these rebuild kits only include bearings and seals. If the turbo housing is corroded due to sea water intrusion, installing the kit may not help a bit.


David

 

[jleonard]

Your turbo will be fine. I have rebuilt several and never had an issue.
Just make sure you prime it with oil just prior to startup.

 

[Tiffany]

Rebuild for my Holset 3LD

Is there a wiki space, or should I just post a very long message?

Hello, Do you have a PDF of your rebuild process for your turbo? I was not able to find in on the Trawlerforum site.


dougcurran@telus.net is my email. Thanks, Doug

 

[kapnd]

R.P.:

BTW: The turbo on "Rise 'n Shine" is obviously recently changed. Furthermore, when I winterized, I discovered the outlet elbow from the turbo (which goes from the turbocharger to the wet elbow) was completely rotted through, and the wet elbow was only held in place by the exhaust hose. No wonder I smelled exhaust...

J.S.

A newly replaced turbo is a red flag, especially coupled with the rotten elbow.
Everything is pointing towards raw water intrusion, through the exhaust or even from a drip above somewhere.
If the source of the problem is not corrected, you may soon be buying another turbo!
sbmar.com has some excellent advice in several articles re exhaust design geometry.

RP Ryan, I’m interested in the results and durability of your Chinese rebuild kit.
Please post your results and source/brand especially if there are problems with that.
I know many products from China are used in manufacturing, it’s just hard to figure out which products are up to par and which are not.

 

[spowell10]

Is there any interest in a DIY article on rebuilding a Holset/Schwitzer 3LD turbo from a 1977 Perkins T6.354?

I just finished rebuilding mine and took a bunch of pictures during the process. I can post the pics and write-up the process. Is there a wiki or place in the forum for these types of articles? Attached is one of the pics

The process is not complex and I think anyone with experience working on engines could do it. It's about as complex as rebuilding a carburetor.

It's not the same as professional rebuild but it solved my problem which was excessive play. A pro rebuild would likely rebalance the wheels, machine some surfaces, and use a more precise bushing. I can't afford to purchase a rebuilt turbo, but I can afford the kit at $95.

For me though, the bushing from the kit fit perfectly and eliminated the play. It will be interesting to see how the turbo holds.

Thanks,
RR

Have you still got the rebuild process, unable to find a link, someone else dismantled my turbo and now just left me with a bucket of bits��.
Thanks

 

[Gdavid]

Have you still got the rebuild process, unable to find a link, someone else dismantled my turbo and now just left me with a bucket of bits��.
Thanks

Another option, assuming your turbo is not water cooled (mine isn't) is a holster H1C or knockoff, it is a more common unit, used on the Cummins 6bt engines found in 1990's dodge pickups. The only adaptation you need to make is a v band adapter to go from 2.5" H1C hot side to the 3" exhaust can. There are adapters you can buy for this. In my opinion, the benefit of this approach is having a solid casting, the original castings rust away, weaken the flange and if that breaks off, and fills your engine room compartment with exhaust.

I have pics of my install in this thread (post 16):

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s11/spring-2022-my-old-mainship-projects-62169.html

 

[Mako]

A newly replaced turbo is a red flag, especially coupled with the rotten elbow.
Everything is pointing towards raw water intrusion, through the exhaust or even from a drip above somewhere.

Good advice and along those lines is what killed my buy of a very nice trawler a couple weeks ago. Twin Volvos, but one recently had a frozen turbo replaced and the other had a head gasket replaced. Mechanic warned me about the exorbitant costs for repair and advised that I end the purchase.

It was a nice boat, and if it had been a single I would have just repowered for a long term ownership. Oh well.

 

[jleonard]

Have you still got the rebuild process, unable to find a link, someone else dismantled my turbo and now just left me with a bucket of bits��.
Thanks

Where are you located?
You can find a breakdown diagram on the inet. There are only a few parts.
You can also use a turbo from an older Dodge/ Cummins pickup as described above. Years 1989 theu about 1997 will work with some eady plumbing changes.