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12-05-2012, 07:18 AM
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#21
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,870
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Once a boat leaves the factory, the USCG and ABYC have nothing to say about it (unless it's in commercial use). You can do anything you want to it. Best policy is to follow their standards, but there are no boat police to order you off the water if you make an unsafe modification.
That's part of the risk in buying a pre owned boat. The previous owner may have used some unsafe materials or methods in repair or modification to the boat.
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12-07-2012, 09:09 AM
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#22
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Guru
City: Cape Cod, MA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,306
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Thanks for all comments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter B
This is precisely how my tanks are set up, and it works perfectly. My filters last years and years, and I get about 1 desertspoonful of water per year out of the primary filter separator.
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Sounds like this has been done at least once b/4. Slanting the crossover lines down to the prefilter should let the water roll down to the filter and the air roll back up to the tanks. In theory. I am doing away with the top pickup tubes as planned for sure.
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06-18-2013, 11:42 AM
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#23
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Guru
City: Cape Cod, MA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,306
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Just adding a sketch of my final setup as discussed on this thread. Thanks to all. I was expecting the water to roll down to the sump nipple w/ drain and the air to roll back up to the tanks. I didn't find any water yet but I notice no air in the filters which I used to get when I ran lower than 20%.
Time will tell.
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06-18-2013, 09:23 PM
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#24
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Brooksie,
Because of my fuel feed problems last summer and evential engine shut down I'm thinking of a new system and generally I like yours. I would have gone to the bottom draw but only several years ago (on my previous boat) I had an accidental leak and the full tank of fuel wound up in the bilge. I was worried someone kick the fuel outlet w a foot or somth'in and I'd have a big dump and a bilge full of fuel.
I have sump tubes from the the top now. Never had any water or air that I know of getting into the primary fuel filter (Racor). But the sump draws fuel from a point 1" above the bottom and perhaps "crud" could roll around on the bottom of the tank for a long time w/o being pumped through the system. With your system theoretically any "crud" would promptly be run through the filters including water. The crud, sludge and water could be monitored as often as necessary and withdrawn from the filter or filters. This would keep sludge from forming because all the water and sludge material would be purged when there was only a very small amount. Basically you'd turn your fuel delivery system into a fuel polishing system.
I think I'd switch the pump and F1. Basically putting the 2 fuel connections on F1 on the pressure side to minimize the possibility of air being drawn in. Looks like I could use most of my existing system too.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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06-19-2013, 10:01 AM
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#25
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Guru
City: Cape Cod, MA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,306
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manyboats, My effort, in part, was to eliminate valves & fittings (especially st.elbows), get rid of all the 50yo copper tubing and gate valves, get the water off the bottom of my tanks where I could drain it, and allow the air (when rolling w/ low tanks) to go back up to the tanks. I did eliminate several dozen fittings and connections, and I think I have given the water and air a path to freedom as it were.
As to filling the bilge with fuel I agree but dip tubes w/o siphon breaks, will put a tank of fuel in the bilge just as easily and mine began to pick up air when the tank was low.
My electric fuel pump calls for a filter ahead of it so that is why I put it between the 30 and a 10 micron Racors.
Please explain where each hose on your existing system goes, I can't seem to understand it and I would like to.
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06-20-2013, 10:06 PM
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#26
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Hi Brooksie,
I'm getting back to this. Delay was for a number of reasons.
Hose on bottom (lower right) is the return from engine.
Next up from bottom is ball valves and return to top of tank. Port on left .. stbd on right.
The exit on top of the X fitting going to the left is the return to the fuel transfer pump out of sight to the right.
Above the transfer pump return line is a separate manifold. From it's bottom "T" ... on the right is the Wabasto supply line and on the left is the fuel supply line from the electric fuel pump and it's filters.
Above that is an X fitting and lines w valves going to the fuel sump tubes on the top of the fuel tank.
The "T" fitting on top is an air bubble collector and hose going to the transfer pump. The cap on top is to purge/bleed air and fill to insure the upper manifold if 100% full of fuel.
The Wabasto supply line on the lower right of upper manifold is going to be terminated and blocked off. I'm going to go back to using the stbd. tank drain for the Wabasto. It works better there.
The top of the stbd. fuel tank can be seen through the hole in the upper left. I mention that to establish the height of the manifolds re the fuel tanks.
I almost always I draw and return from one tank as seen in the photo.
The boat yard did most of this when I was in Alaska and I've changed very little. The hose clamps w the phillips screw heads are designed better for an even seal all around the nose.
All praise, comments and criticism is welcome in that order.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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