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Old 09-06-2016, 03:49 PM   #21
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I have used Sea Foam mostly as a carb cleaner , when I'm too lazy to remove and soak the carb.

An RV gas noisemaker or a yard tractor can be started on starting fluid , and if it will keep running the sea foam in fuel may clean it up for another season after a long run..

Diesel fuel is delivered with some water regardless of the source.

Unless a very slow fill with a Baja funnel is done , it will be in any diesel tank.

Bug killer is to keep the bug poop from collecting while sitting, the tiny water is removed by most filters.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:07 PM   #22
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I think a biocide makes some sense. Best is to get any water out of the bottom of the tank, but if that is not practical, the biocide will limit the gunk that grows over the winter. Maybe some "stabil" for diesel, it works on gas pretty well to prevent degradation over storage periods. But not really needed on diesel, that stuff lasts for years by itself.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:21 PM   #23
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Most of the time, nothing special needs to be done. Especially if you keep your tanks full and have a good primary filter. If you don't have a vacuum gauge between the primary and lift pump, add one. It will warn you about the filter becoming full.
There are two basic fuel conditioners. One causes water to be absorbed into the diesel to be burned. The other helps extract the water so your primary can separate it out. Some also make the fuel burn better helping cold weather starts and economy. Water can damage fuel and engine components because it rapidly expands (16x or more) as it turns to steam.
I use an Archoil product that costs about 8/gallon in the smallest size but gives me a 10%+ mileage boost in Detroit mains at 1800 rpm.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
Most of the time, nothing special needs to be done. Especially if you keep your tanks full and have a good primary filter. If you don't have a vacuum gauge between the primary and lift pump, add one. It will warn you about the filter becoming full.
There are two basic fuel conditioners. One causes water to be absorbed into the diesel to be burned. The other helps extract the water so your primary can separate it out. Some also make the fuel burn better helping cold weather starts and economy. Water can damage fuel and engine components because it rapidly expands (16x or more) as it turns to steam.
I use an Archoil product that costs about 8/gallon in the smallest size but gives me a 10%+ mileage boost in Detroit mains at 1800 rpm.

sorry totally 100% impossible if you believe the world is round .It could be possible if the world was flat
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:28 PM   #25
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USE THE BOAT.

Why fuel it up if you aren't going to burn the fuel?

It's like calling the local dairy and asking them to deliver 200 gallons of milk to the house when you only planning on using a pint a week, and then worrying about the milk going bad.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:51 PM   #26
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USE THE BOAT.

Why fuel it up if you aren't going to burn the fuel?

It's like calling the local dairy and asking them to deliver 200 gallons of milk to the house when you only planning on using a pint a week, and then worrying about the milk going bad.



199 gallons of cheese gets me excited
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:55 AM   #27
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ctbarbarian, I very seldom get a chuckle our of answers, but your initial sentence was damn funny!

I used two tanks worth of fuel this year from two busy marinas and had more than our share of rough water to mix it up, no water or sediment found in the bowl and no rust on the top of the fuel filters. I'm going with full tanks and without any additives again this winter in the wet PNW.
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