Cutlass bearing fitment

[She-Kon]

I have a question about cutlass bearings. Never owned a boat with this thing before. About to dry fit the bearing carrier to the transom. What kind of fit does the cutlass have in relation to the bearing carrier? Interference fit? Does it have to be pressed in?

There's no way I can press this in by hand.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Press fit. Freeze it first.

You can make a tool out of threaded rod, nuts, a pipe cap and big washers to push it in place.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Once it's in back out the set screws and drill a slight dimple into the bearing case for the set screw to set in.

Use a bit of Loctie or sealant on the threads of the set screw as well.

 

[She-Kon]

Hi Cap'n Bill

Got some all thread and some huge fender washers.

So what I'm getting is it is supposed to be a tight fit? I guess I'll see how much it takes to get it in. Hopefully "I" won't be the one to have to take it out!

 

[Heron]

Once it's in back out the set screws and drill a slight dimple into the bearing case for the set screw to set in.

Use a bit of Loctie or sealant on the threads of the set screw as well.

Yes...definitely do this. When my boat was out over the winter I discovered the cutlass bearing was rotating in the tube along with the shaft and probably had been for some time.. Some dimples and new pointy set screws did the trick.

 

[O C Diver]

The yard I use has a 20 ton press that does the job nicely. While there are different ways to do it, the yard generally pulls the bearing holder, takes it to the shop, cuts the bearing out, presses in a new one, and then reinstalls it on the boat.

Ted

 

[Pack Mule]

I just saw this done last weekend on a 45ft Californian . The yard boss had a special tool that was used to push the old one out and pull the new one in . It had a couple plates and threaded rods and spacers .

 

[FF]

"The yard boss had a special tool that was used to push the old one out and pull the new one in . It had a couple plates and threaded rods and spacers ."

Really EZ to roll your own.

 

[jleonard]

Press fit. Freeze it first.

You can make a tool out of threaded rod, nuts, a pipe cap and big washers to push it in place.

Yes, I made a tool with threaded rod, washers and plywood. Same principle.
File a nice chamfer on the lead end and that will help.

And don't forget the drill spot and set screws.

 

[bayview]

press fit but since you have it out I''bet that if you put it into the freezer overnight and even warm the munt it will go much easier.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Heron,
I ususlly mark the cutlass OD marking through the set screw holes holding the cutlass in place. Then remove, make fairly deep "dimples" and reinstall in same position.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Heron,
I ususlly mark the cutlass OD marking through the set screw holes holding the cutlass in place. Then remove, make fairly deep "dimples" and reinstall in same position.

Your bearings must slide in and out real easily.

With pretty much all of them I've done I'd hate to have to pull them out and reinsert them just to mark them. Not to mention getting the dimple/hole alignment right.

 

[psneeld]

Your bearings must slide in and out real easily.

With pretty much all of them I've done I'd hate to have to pull them out and reinsert them just to mark them. Not to mention getting the dimple/hole alignment right.

:,

I would be really surprised if many did the proceedure twice...can be hard enough the first time.

Just be careful drilling the dimples (tape the bit) and fitting the bearing only once is just the right amount of work for one afternoon...

 

[jleonard]

:,

I would be really surprised if many did the proceedure twice...can be hard enough the first time.

Just be careful drilling the dimples (tape the bit) and fitting the bearing only once is just the right amount of work for one afternoon...

Yes just use a smaller drill. The point does NOT have to be deep to hold it in place as long as the set screw has a point

 

[Heron]

Heron,
I ususlly mark the cutlass OD marking through the set screw holes holding the cutlass in place. Then remove, make fairly deep "dimples" and reinstall in same position.

:,

I would be really surprised if many did the proceedure twice...can be hard enough the first time.

Just be careful drilling the dimples (tape the bit) and fitting the bearing only once is just the right amount of work for one afternoon...

I Taped the bit to make the holes. My bearing is not easily removable without a lot of work...

 

[She-Kon]

Your bearings must slide in and out real easily.

With pretty much all of them I've done I'd hate to have to pull them out and reinsert them just to mark them. Not to mention getting the dimple/hole alignment right.

Ooops! That's what I needed to know before hand. I frigged around all morning trying to get it in with the threaded rod trick. Resorted to a big hammer. That didn't work. Took it to my buddy's shop and had it pressed in. There's no way in hell it's coming out now!

All the really nasty details are in today's blog update:

https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/08/there-are-times.html

It appears I didn't damage it so it should be good. If not I'll just buy a new carrier & cutlass and start over. I've made bigger ($$$) mistakes.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

As you found out washers alone won't work. That's why I mentioned the pipe cap/reducer in my post. And you could see it in the picture I posted.

To clarify a bit further, you need to use something solid and stiff that is very close to the O.D. of the bearing to push the bearing into place. The washers are just used to make up any slight difference in diameter between the bearing and what is pressing it in if need be. Now you can make washer like plates out of thick steel of aluminum if you like that would be stiff enough on their own to press the bearing in.

Did you try and freeze the bearing before hand? A cooler and some dry ice works well.

Of course a press is the way to go if like you one has access to it and you can carry the strut or stern tube to it. As is the special tools used by boat yards to press in/out bearings.

 

[psneeld]

If you take the bearing carrier off the boat..a decent car or truck jack can be used to press it in too.

LIke the rod, pipe cap and washers......straight is the answer, a little lube also helps.

 

[She-Kon]

I did freeze the cutlass prior to trying to install it Cap'n Bill. I also heated up the bearing carrier in the over to 450 degs. Still too tight to fit.

Anywho, got it done. Don't ever intend on taking it apart. That'll be the next owners job!

Got everything mocked up this morning. Apparently no damage to the cutlass or bearing carrier which is amazing considering the abuse I heaped on it tyring to get it together.

Did a lil' spin test. Smooth as butter!

https://youtu.be/8FJJysKxphU

Ok mods. Please close this thread. Moving back to the old thread in the boat building section.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

Cheers