Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-21-2015, 05:32 AM   #21
timjet's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,866
Originally Posted by fryedaze View Post
Suggest you try your questions on You will get experts, probably the best there is on your Cummins helping you solve the problem. Nothing against the folks here.
Thanks, I did. Tony came back with some great pics of the engine w/o the fuel cooler and a modified fuel block. I'm not going to remove the fuel cooler just yet, but will consider it when I get the boat back home to Tampa next year. It will be due for after-cooler cleanings, and that would be a good time to remove them.

Tampa Bay
Carver 355 ACMY Twin Cummins Diesels
timjet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2015, 09:45 AM   #22
City: gulf coast
Country: pinellas
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,755
Once I learned to lift the floor on my Carver I did it whenever things were too tight. Took advantage and did filters and careful inspection at the same time.

bayview is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2015, 05:01 AM   #23
Senior Member
City: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Country: USA
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 179
Send a message via Skype™ to bglad
If the plugs are on the bottom of the block I think Ski has gotten it right. One of the adapters threads is wet with fuel. Leak is where you find fuel at the highest point. Doesn't look like the plug is leaking it is just a point where fuel is puddling along the way.

Originally Posted by timjet View Post
Thanks guys for all your help. I finally got the Cummins mechanic to send me the pics he took.

Thinking the engine was under warranty I did not look for myself where the leak is or how difficult it is to get to. I am just taking the mechanics word when he said about 8 hrs labor and removal of the after-cooler was necessary.

Looking at the pics I don't think the leak is due to a hose attached to a fitting as suggested by SKI. I'm going to look for myself before authorizing Cummins to do the work.

Aqualbelle; good to hear you didn't have to remove the after-cooler to get to the fuel block. But as I recall the after-cooler will need to be loose in order to remove the raw water hoses to allow space to remove the fuel cooler hoses.
Concerning the wisdom of removing the fuel cooler; I've read Tony's suggestions on this, and I have no doubt that he's the expert. The only thing I can say about this is that his experience in the San Diego area with water temps rarely above 60 degrees may be different than mine where the water temps are rarely below 60 degrees. None the less I won't remove the fuel cooler until the engine is out of warranty.

jleonard; great idea about the key stock, it might work, I'll check when I get down to the boat next week.

Thanks guys for your comments. Below are the pics, additional comments are welcome.
bglad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2015, 09:49 AM   #24
Brooksie's Avatar
City: Cape Cod, MA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 858
Plugs are 5/16" square drive. Just trying to tighten them runs the risk of splitting the aluminum block they are in. If you go to the trouble of stripping down the engine to get at it, you should get the Seaboard Marine kit and do it for good.
There certainly are thread sealants and plugs that will do this job correctly. Makes you wonder why Cummins didn't use them reman or new.

Brooksie is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:43 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012