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Old 04-06-2016, 10:23 PM   #1
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Cummins 330 hp 6B On Engine Fuel Filter Change Proceedure

I am getting ready to change the on engine fuel filter on my 2002 Cummins 330 hp engine.
What is the best procedure to make sure you don't get air to the injectors?
I have changed fuel filters on a 54 hp Yanmar before, but not this engine.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-07-2016, 02:06 AM   #2
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Doesn't look like you are getting any answers. There should be a procedure in the manual.

I believe your engine is the 6BTA5.9 engine. I think they have a manual pump on the fuel lift pump that you have to pump manually with your finger. The manual should be able to give you the specifics. I don't think these need to be bled but can be primed from the manual pump (if your finer holds out).
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:43 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Pgitug View Post
I am getting ready to change the on engine fuel filter on my 2002 Cummins 330 hp engine.
What is the best procedure to make sure you don't get air to the injectors?
I have changed fuel filters on a 54 hp Yanmar before, but not this engine.
Any help would be appreciated.
First off, I would not skimp on the filter itself. I would use the Fleetguard filter spec'd for the engine. Other than that, just fill the filter up with diesel. It is not terribly important that is is exactly full. These engines are considered "self priming" so they will get the air out on their own. I just try to avoid that scenario. It is not uncommon for it to start and then die. Once it starts, I run it up pretty good in hopes of passing the air before it dies. But usually just crank on it a bit more and it will start right up. Super duper simple!!!
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:57 AM   #4
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First off, I would not skimp on the filter itself. I would use the Fleetguard filter spec'd for the engine. Other than that, just fill the filter up with diesel. It is not terribly important that is is exactly full. These engines are considered "self priming" so they will get the air out on their own. I just try to avoid that scenario. It is not uncommon for it to start and then die. Once it starts, I run it up pretty good in hopes of passing the air before it dies. But usually just crank on it a bit more and it will start right up. Super duper simple!!!
What he said.
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:19 AM   #5
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Other than that, just fill the filter up with diesel. It is not terribly important that is is exactly full. These engines are considered "self priming" so they will get the air out on their own.

Our Cummins tech recommends using the manual priming pump, so the injectors never see un-filtered diesel.

Ours (450C) is likely different, but perhaps similar: just push the primer "button" a bit until the system "sqeaks" at you. Doesn't take long. The "self-priming part will take care of the rest.

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Old 04-07-2016, 08:11 AM   #6
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The manual pump on that engine is a button" that looks like the old high beam switch that used to be on the floor. Push it with your palm.
As long as you get some or most of the air out it will start. As stated previously this engine will self bleed.
There might be a bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing I don't remember. If so loosen this up and prime until fuel comes out, them close it and crank her up.

I know what the techs say about unfiltered fuel but I always pre filled the filter with known clean fresh fuel out of a known clean container.
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:39 AM   #7
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I've always filled the filters with ATF.
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:42 AM   #8
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Good advice above. I just changed mine a couple days ago. In the past I'd prefilled the filter. This time I didn't, but I did use the manual primer on the lift pump. After about a minute of pumping I got the telltale squeeky sound. Cranked the engine and it fired right up, then died. A few more seconds of cranking with the throttle advanced and the engine self-bled and started.
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:52 AM   #9
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The procedure varies substantially depending on if the engine is electrically high pressure injected of not. Filling filters on common rail engines is a no no.


Is it mechanical or common rail,
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:52 AM   #10
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I've always filled the filters with ATF.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:22 AM   #11
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The procedure varies substantially depending on if the engine is electrically high pressure injected of not. Filling filters on common rail engines is a no no.


Is it mechanical or common rail,
330B is mechanical.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:28 AM   #12
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First off, I would not skimp on the filter itself. I would use the Fleetguard filter spec'd for the engine. Other than that, just fill the filter up with diesel. It is not terribly important that is is exactly full. These engines are considered "self priming" so they will get the air out on their own. I just try to avoid that scenario. It is not uncommon for it to start and then die. Once it starts, I run it up pretty good in hopes of passing the air before it dies. But usually just crank on it a bit more and it will start right up. Super duper simple!!!

Yep. I did buy the Fleetguard filters from Tony. I got the ones with the drain. May never use it but it is there. Thanks for the instructions.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:30 AM   #13
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The manual pump on that engine is a button" that looks like the old high beam switch that used to be on the floor. Push it with your palm.
As long as you get some or most of the air out it will start. As stated previously this engine will self bleed.
There might be a bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing I don't remember. If so loosen this up and prime until fuel comes out, them close it and crank her up.

I know what the techs say about unfiltered fuel but I always pre filled the filter with known clean fresh fuel out of a known clean container.

I found the primer button. And I will clean the container before i put in the diesel
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:39 AM   #14
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Yep. I did buy the Fleetguard filters from Tony. I got the ones with the drain. May never use it but it is there. Thanks for the instructions.

Fleetguard filters with a drain? Link?

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Old 04-07-2016, 09:58 AM   #15
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you should not fill a fuel filter before installation, better to fill it by manually operating the feed pump.
there is a bleed screw at the filter housing, above and slightly towards the front of the engine, open this before pumping and leave it open until fuel flows freely, there is another bleed screw behind the top of the fuel pump at the front end you could also check this. after you have everything bled and the bleed screws closed more pumping and you will probably hear the return valve squeaking, means you are ready to go.
as stated by others this engine self bleeds once it is going but if you try and start without bleeding you probably wont get it going!
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Old 04-07-2016, 10:32 AM   #16
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I would also recommend using the priming pump and not prefilling this filter. This is your engine's last and final hope of getting clean and dry fuel. Fuel that looks clean, in a container that looks clean, may not be completely clean. I would let the fuel filter do its job and filter the fuel that your primaries have already filtered down.

Pumping that little button is a lot easier than taking out a clogged injector. However, many folks have pre-filled on engine filters including me and not run into problems. But you don't want to be the rare case that does have a problem.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:42 PM   #17
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On the older mechanical engines there is a way to fill [partly] the final filter.
Ensure the fuel is poured ONLY into the ring of small outer holes near the O.D. of the filter housing.

Be sure NO fuel enters the central hole.

This way the fuel must still go through the filter media.
The normal flow is from the outer ring holes through the media to the large single central hole.

I agree that no matter how well cleaned the jug is there is a chance of something entering the injection pump otherwise. Also unless the fuel that goes into the jug was filtered properly then the question remains, is it clean enough?

Cummins forbids[?] doing this with common rail engines though. They want you to key on so the fuel pump runs which fills the final filter. The key on must be done several times. The C.R. engine injection system are extremely sensitive to ANY contamination or expensive repairs may result if filtering is inadequate.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:59 PM   #18
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The C.R. engine injection system are extremely sensitive to ANY contamination or expensive repairs may result if filtering is inadequate.
Yeah...like a $900 injector!!!
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Old 04-07-2016, 01:36 PM   #19
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On the older mechanical engines there is a way to fill [partly] the final filter.
Ensure the fuel is poured ONLY into the ring of small outer holes near the O.D. of the filter housing.

Be sure NO fuel enters the central hole.

This way the fuel must still go through the filter media.
The normal flow is from the outer ring holes through the media to the large single central hole.
I do the same on my 6BT5.9s...works like a charm, with no stutter on start-up.
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:28 PM   #20
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Fleetguard filters with a drain? Link?

-Chris

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