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Old 09-02-2017, 06:43 PM   #1
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Copper or rubber, which is the preferred fuel line material?

Hi,

My new to me, 1982 DeFever has a mixture of copper and rubber segments in the fuel lines. In the port engine there are 7 segments from the Racor to the engine, and that is in a run of about 3 feet! The starboard side isn't as bad, but it still has 4 segments. I am going to replumb each of them to have 1 segment. What is the preferred material? I can bend the copper line no problem, so ease of installation isn't an issue, but I want to use the currently preferred method.

Thanks, once again, in advance.

Frank
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:41 PM   #2
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Either or is fine, just need flexible where vibration would be an issue between a fixed point and a vibrating point.

Most woukd orobably go with rubber for short runs lime you describe.
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:03 PM   #3
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Rubber as the last section before the engine. Copper is great, but gets metal fatigue from vibration.
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:58 PM   #4
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Always best to reduce the number of a PO's repairs...
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:35 PM   #5
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I was a little concerned about using reinforced rubber fuel line for a 20 ft. run from a Racor filter and fuel tank to my relocated genset under the aft deck. No issues at all so far. Down the road a few years, the line may loose some strength, but no signs of that in three years.
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:56 PM   #6
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Go to an industrial hose supply and have some rubber lines made up with real screw-on connections and forget them until you...no for forever.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:11 PM   #7
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If you use rubber, make sure it carries an A2 rating. I had some fuel line that wasn't USCG rated A2, it was flagged on a survey. It's more expensive, but not so much if you have to replace it after a survey. Easier to have it meet standards when it's installed.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
Go to an industrial hose supply and have some rubber lines made up with real screw-on connections and forget them until you...no for forever.

I like the sound of that.
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Old 09-03-2017, 12:54 AM   #9
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Actually it's not that Generalized if you want to comply with ABYC 1002.1 AND USCG Regulations

A Few of many Points to confirm:

1)If using Rubber it must be certified Fuel Hose (usually marked on the hose as such) also technically there's also variances in certifications
2)Either Rubber or Copper lines should be secured and not run alongside wiring (unless inside a second conduit).
3)If using Copper a vibration coil or a rubber section must be included prior and close to the engine connection
4)Copper pipes on there ends must have flares/beads/angular grooves/ or serrations
5)Any hose clamps used in the system must be of the non -corrosive type with smooth inside parts
6) Copper lines must be of the (Annealed type ) and have a minimum wall thickness of 0.029 inches (Note a lot of normal store bought Copper does not meet this requirement)
USGC 183.540 Hoses: Standards and markings.
(a) "USCG Type A1" hose means hose that meets the performance requirements of:
(1) SAE Standard J1527DEC85, Class 1 and the fire test in Sec.183.590; or
(2) Underwriters’ Laboratories, Inc. (UL) Standard 1114.
(b) "USCG Type A2" hose means hose that meets the performance requirements of
SAE Standard J1527DEC85, Class 2 and the fire test in Sec 183.590;
(c) "USCG Type B1" hose means hose that meets the performance requirements of
SAE Standard J1527DEC85, Class 1.
(d) "USCG Type B2" hose means hose that meets the performance requirements of
SAE Standard J1527DEC85 Class 2.
NOTE:
SAE Class 1 hose has a permeation rating of 100 grams or less fuel loss per square
meter of interior surface in 24 hours.
SAE Class 2 hose has a permeation rating of 300 grams or less fuel loss per square meter of interior surface in 24 hours.

The permeation rating of the hose refers to the quantity of fuel which will pass through the walls of the hose out into the boat when the hose is filled with fuel. You could think of this as a slow leak. Fortunately, the fuel vapors formed by this low level of permeation are readily dissipated by the ventilation system.

Rule:183.540 Rubber Type Hoses: Standards and markings.
(e) Each "USCG Type A1," "USCG Type A2," "USCG Type B1," and
"USCG Type B2" hose must be identified by the manufacturer by a marking on the hose.
(f) Each marking must contain the following information in English:
(1) The statement "USCG Type (insert A1, A2, B1, or B2).”
(2) The year in which the hose was manufactured.
(3) The manufacturer's name or registered trademark.
(g) Each character must be block capital letters and numerals that are at least one-eighth
inch high.
(h) Each marking must be permanent, legible, and on the outside of the hose at intervals of 12 inches or less.

Cheers Steve(MIIMS-Lloyd's Maritime)
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:31 AM   #10
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Simplifying the post above, go to a marine store and buy the appropriate approved fuel hose for your type of fuel, install it properly and be done with it.

If you use copper, it has to be as specified above, terminated as above and you'll still need hose to connect to anything that moves (like the engine).
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHeckrotte View Post
Always best to reduce the number of a PO's repairs...
Remember, you will be a "PO" someday.
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Old 09-03-2017, 10:15 AM   #12
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I just replaced all mine with Aeroquip FC-234- (8) & (10) it's fully compliant, not cheap (I needed 150') as I replaced both supply and returns to my DD 6-71s. It was the same hose Viking used when the boat was built in 1987. I figured after 39 years it was time.
You can find pcs on eBay as well as most industrial supply houses.
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Old 09-03-2017, 10:25 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mbevins View Post
I just replaced all mine with Aeroquip FC-234- (8) & (10) it's fully compliant, not cheap (I needed 150') as I replaced both supply and returns to my DD 6-71s. It was the same hose Viking used when the boat was built in 1987. I figured after 39 years it was time.
You can find pcs on eBay as well as most industrial supply houses.
Our boat is built with the same stuff, including field installed flare fittings. It's very robust.
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:20 PM   #14
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Our boat is built with the same stuff, including field installed flare fittings. It's very robust.
Yes the fittings are a critical part. The great thing is they are reusable. Unscrewed them from the old hose and installed them on the new stuff. My runs were almost 30' of 5/8" supply with 1/2" returns. Installing hard tube would have been not practical.
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