Copper fuel line to rubber fuel line ?

[SoWhat]

PO wrapped the copper with electrical tape before clamping hose over it. (He also repaired a leak in Cu cold water line with elec tape) Leaks were everywhere. I have change fuel supply to hose. Might changeover returns to hose this fall. Goal is to have everything converted to barbs and hoses. In a pinch a double clamp should be OK but like others, I put a flare on it. A double flare would have rounder edges so would be preferable.

 

[SoWhat]

I am going to be replacing my port fuel tank this winter if all goes well. I have a Racor 900MA to replace the FG unit. What sealant would you recommend for the metal fittings?

I use permetex hydraulic sealant. Just kept it away from the first 2 threads. Their black oil resistant RTV would probably work.

 

[wkearney99]

5200 is not the cure all on a boat.
Someone take away his tube of 5200

I've often thought 5200, or the retail displays for it, should come with a warning to that effect.

 

[wkearney99]

I know there's ways to put a flare on the end of copper tubing or a compression fitting, but what about a bulge or something intended to hold the clamp from sliding back off the tubing? My googling isn't hitting the right search term for it. Kinda like a compression ring would look like.

 

[Nepidae]

You'd better listen to Steve D'Antonio on this 1. You should feel very lucky he jumped in here.
I will add though that Parker has a pump that goes in a Racor primary filter. I had 1 installed in each of our Racor 900 filters. It is a priming pump and takes the PITA out of priming the system after you do your filter changes.
A welcome change to the job and no hose barbs or other fitting necessary.
IF you have Racor primary filters, call Parker and get the info on the pumps.

 

[Comodave]

Thanks for the info. I am hoping Steve D will come back with an answer. I will look at Parkers web site. Since I am putting a new filter in I might like to have a priming pump.

 

[Comodave]

I will add though that Parker has a pump that goes in a Racor primary filter. I had 1 installed in each of our Racor 900 filters. It is a priming pump and takes the PITA out of priming the system after you do your filter changes.
A welcome change to the job and no hose barbs or other fitting necessary.
IF you have Racor primary filters, call Parker and get the info on the pumps.[/QUOTE]

I just looked at the Parker website and found the pump. It says it primes the Racor filter. Will it prime the secondary filters on the engine or just the Racor filter?

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Steve,

I am going to be replacing my port fuel tank this winter if all goes well. I have a Racor 900MA to replace the FG unit. What sealant would you recommend for the metal fittings?

The connection to the Racor body itself is an O ring, so no sealant there, I lightly lube O rings with Teflon grease. From there, it would be NPT pipe fittings, on which you should use pipe thread sealant. I've used LeakLock in this application for close to two decades personally and in the yard I managed, it's suitable for diesel as well as a number of other liquids, including potable and raw water, it's non-toxic.

There are many pipe thread sealants that will work, it's a bit like anchors, every gearhead has his favorite. I simply have used and prefer LL.

You could upgrade the FG unit by adding a heat shield and metallic UL drain...

 

[Steve DAntonio]

I know there's ways to put a flare on the end of copper tubing or a compression fitting, but what about a bulge or something intended to hold the clamp from sliding back off the tubing? My googling isn't hitting the right search term for it. Kinda like a compression ring would look like.

You can flare copper and steel tubing pretty easily, flare kits are readily available and not expensive, however, you can't place a hose over a flare, you can install a flare to NPT and then add a pipe to hose adapter onto this. That's a little bulky but it works and is not uncommon. If you want to place a hose directly over a tube it needs a bead that complies with the ABYC Standard I posted earlier. There are tubing bead tools as well, these are more pricey so the flare to NPT is less expensive. https://www.amazon.com/Tube-Beading-Tool-Medium-Heavy/dp/B06WVFJGP6

 

[Cigatoo]

I will add though that Parker has a pump that goes in a Racor primary filter. I had 1 installed in each of our Racor 900 filters. It is a priming pump and takes the PITA out of priming the system after you do your filter changes.
A welcome change to the job and no hose barbs or other fitting necessary.
IF you have Racor primary filters, call Parker and get the info on the pumps.

I just looked at the Parker website and found the pump. It says it primes the Racor filter. Will it prime the secondary filters on the engine or just the Racor filter?[/QUOTE]

Why not just a Walbro?

 

[Portage_Bay]

.....................


PushLok is a Parker product, it is only supposed to be used with PushLok hose, the hose is special designed, somewhat like a Chinese handcuff, to grip the barb.

There is no Type A1 PushLok hose, most installations I encounter use common A1 hose with PushLoks, which technically are incompatible.................

.................Push-Lok is not recommended for any fuel." https://www.parker.com/static_content/LiteratureX/4281 B1.pdf

Parker does make a PushLok fuel hose, but it's not labeled A1, and must be used with HY fittings, which must be crimped.

Having said all that, I'll admit that the PushLok fittings are very convenient and make disassembly a snap. If you can find a similar flare fitting with a conventional barb, that would be better. I've never been able to pull any hose off of a PushLok fititng.

Steve I've carefully read your post and the Parker literature. I understand what you're telling us but I've seen many yards using PushLok and A1 hose without incident. The yard the boat is in now is recommending PushLok and A1. Are you aware of any failures with PushLok and A1 hose?

 

[Comodave]

The connection to the Racor body itself is an O ring, so no sealant there, I lightly lube O rings with Teflon grease. From there, it would be NPT pipe fittings, on which you should use pipe thread sealant. I've used LeakLock in this application for close to two decades personally and in the yard I managed, it's suitable for diesel as well as a number of other liquids, including potable and raw water, it's non-toxic.

There are many pipe thread sealants that will work, it's a bit like anchors, every gearhead has his favorite. I simply have used and prefer LL.

You could upgrade the FG unit by adding a heat shield and metallic UL drain...

Steve,

Thanks for the info. I will look for some LeakLock.

I found a couple of new out of the box 900MAs on ebay for a really good price so I picked them up.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Steve I've carefully read your post and the Parker literature. I understand what you're telling us but I've seen many yards using PushLok and A1 hose without incident. The yard the boat is in now is recommending PushLok and A1. Are you aware of any failures with PushLok and A1 hose?

I'm simply saying it's not recommended by the manufacturer, Parker is clear, PushLok must be used with PushLok hose and there is no A1 PushLok hose.

My take on this is DIYers can choose to knowingly violate manufacturer instructions, marine industry professionals, for a host of reasons, should never do so.

I have seen no failures in the way of fuel leaks, however, I have seen embolised hose that was a result of the inner liner of the hose being cut by the PushLok aggressive barb, used with a hose clamp.

Other manufacturers offer conventionally barbed flare swivel fittings. I did a 5 min Google search and found these, I'm sure there are others.

Female Flare Swivel Hose Barbs | Anderson Metals Corp., Inc.

https://tramecsloan.com/products/fi...b-to-swivel-female-flare-hose-i-d-14-tube-14/

 

[Todd2]

Also, there is a wide disparity in quality of rubber fuel lines. There's:

1) High pressure fuel line (may have a Teflon liner inside).
2) Low pressure fuel line (not for use at fuel injection pressures).
3) Vacuum lines (not for use with fuel).
4) Chinese fuel line (not for use period).

At first glance they may look alike. Buy the good brand name stuff (#1), or you'll be back replacing the Chinese crap next year - and annually thereafter.

Todd

 

[psneeld]

There's also USCG approved which you USA insurance company will demand.

 

[Todd2]

There's also USCG approved which you USA insurance company will demand.

Ahhh, I wasn't aware that the USCG approved of certain brands/types. I was relaying my past experiences with inferior products. Good to know. Thanks.

Todd

 

[Comodave]

The CG does not approve fuel lines. The approval comes from a testing lab that certifies that the fuel hose is manufactured to the CG specifications. Then the manufacturer puts the certification numbers on their product.

 

[psneeld]

Yes of course.....but USCG is at least one of the markings on the hose

 

[boatpoker]

I don't like clamps on fuel hoses but ABYC permits them, however, must be double and have the properties of ~300 SS, min 1/2 in.

ABYC requires double clamps on fuel fill hoses only.

 

[Comodave]

ABYC requires double clamps on fuel fill hoses only.

Yes. A lot of the smaller sized hoses the barb isn’t long enough to put 2 clamos on properly.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

The CG does not approve fuel lines. The approval comes from a testing lab that certifies that the fuel hose is manufactured to the CG specifications. Then the manufacturer puts the certification numbers on their product.

The CG does not approve a brand per se, it's a type approval, "USCG Type A1" should be printed on the hose every 12", this means, among other things, it can withstand exposure to flame for 2.5 mins. This article covers it https://www.passagemaker.com/channels/hose-selection-choosing-wisely-pays-dividends