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Old 02-16-2014, 02:49 PM   #81
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Now regarding coolant, why not do as the engine manufacturer says?
That would make a boring thread now, wouldn't it?
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:08 PM   #82
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I do. The problem is that the cheap brands that have no brand names contain the same ingredients and come from the same factories as the brand name products that make all the claims and charge the highest prices.

You must know all of the standards that these products must meet as they do not have ingredient lists. I gave the example of cheaper Canadian Tire oil that meets the exact same standards as Rotella. I compared them side by side, and it even turns out the C.T. stuff comes from the Shell refinery. That makes sense as refineries are scarce on the ground and pretty spendy to set up. I think coolant is the same, but I am not sure. Like buying a certain branded oil filter because it's supposed to be superior and finding out its made in a Chinese fireworks factory.
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:25 PM   #83
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So how about a recap? What coolant besides water should go into my FL120? Water is what's in there now.

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Old 02-16-2014, 03:57 PM   #84
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XSBank

Forget about the cost of oil and AF that you could maybe save 15% on. There is real concern to be had over the cost of beer, wine and liquor in the States as compared to Canada.

I just bought a 12 pack of imported very good beer from Holland for $12 at the local Arizona grocery store. And I can walk to the store in 5 minutes. We both know that is about 40% the cost of buying it somewhere in the Lower Mainland.

Or top notch Lindemans from OZ for $8 a bottle only to be beat by Yellowtail for $5.85!

I won't even tell you the cost of a 1.75 liter jug of rum, gin or vodka from Costco.

So you can get really steamed now!
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:10 PM   #85
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dhmeissner,
Use 60% distilled water and 40% AF. Use orange if your AF comes in contact w aluminum engine parts ... green if it dosn't.

I considered the fact that you show you're from Seattle.

If you've got tap water in your engine flush at least once w distilled water. Buy in grocery stores by the gallon.

..... IMO
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:25 PM   #86
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Thanks, I keep my engine room from freezing so I didn't know if I really needed any or not. Guess it can't hurt.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:42 PM   #87
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Thanks, I keep my engine room from freezing so I didn't know if I really needed any or not. Guess it can't hurt.
Really, we should be using the term coolant. Antifreeze Is only one of the qualities. A mixture of PG or EG and water also increases the boiling point. Really it's job is to provide effective heat transfer, lower the freezing point, raise the boiling point and prevent corrosion.
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:43 PM   #88
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Dave,
You should use some A.F. It contains, or should, anticorrosion agents. Most COOLANTS not only freeze protect but protect against corrosion, in addition to the points N.Spy made.

There are additives that can be put in to protect from corrosion but if you don't use that and don't use A.F. then you will have trouble at some point.

Even though you live in a mild area, consider what would happen if the power went out for a few days in freezing weather. You may not crack the block or lose any 'freeze plugs' since that is a lot of mass but you could damage a heat exchanger.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:05 PM   #89
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Thanks, I'll do this very soon. We sailed the boat up from the bay area, and I don't believe any type of coolant was ever used down there, but I don't have logs that go very far back. I do have all the manuals so I shouldn't have any problems changing it. I do need to buy a coolant recovery system from AD, since the boat ('74) doesn't have one.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:33 PM   #90
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Greetings,
Mr. d. For an interim solution to your coolant recovery tank I have, in the past, connected the overflow tube via plastic tubing to a remote bottle. Keep an eye on the level in the bottle and pour back into the expansion tank as necessary.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:43 PM   #91
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Sunchaser, no fair flogging me when I'm hurting! I get way more pleasure out of a gallon of Porchclimber than a gallon (well, a US pretend-a-gallon) of Prestone. The buyer's remorse is much more tolerable.

I used to fly into Lauderdale quite often and would pick up a drum of rum or gin or whatever, because it was so cheap. Some of those boozy warehouses were irresistible. We could also buy beer and wine in Costco in Montreal and it is way cheaper back there than in BC.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:52 PM   #92
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dhmeissner,
Use 60% distilled water and 40% AF. Use orange if your AF comes in contact w aluminum engine parts ... green if it dosn't.


..... IMO
One needs to read the labels and not go by the color of the coolant. My Ford Diesel came with a gold colored coolant. My JD diesel tractor engine has green colored coolant. Both are the same chemistry but different colors. I used the JD green coolant in both the truck and tractor because it is cheaper and easier for me to buy.

Of course the JD green coolant is completely different than the green colored stuff in the wife's gas burning vehicle.

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Old 02-16-2014, 10:10 PM   #93
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dannc,
Looked like Mr. d was getting lost in all the details and needed a compressive and direct answer to get focused back on the ball.

But I didn't know about the green/orange change. Most engine manuals do spec all fluids though.
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:22 PM   #94
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dhmeissner and RTF, check the caps on your coolant fillers for condition. I replaced mine at, I suspect, 31 years, they looked original. The overflow and loss of coolant reduced immediately. The original caps are a modest 4 psi. I think there is a higher psi, maybe 6 or 8, for modified tank fillers which AD put out.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:13 AM   #95
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One needs to read the labels and not go by the color of the coolant.

Finally ... a voice of wisdom.

http://www.aftermarketsuppliers.org/...ish/05-2R1.pdf
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:03 AM   #96
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...... Use orange if your AF comes in contact w aluminum engine parts ... green if it dosn't....... IMO
Disregarding the color, that advice is a direct contradiction of Volvo's advice to never mix the two different types of coolant and not to try to change to the newer type in an older engine because you can never completely eliminate traces of the old.

The engine maker's recommendation (requirement) rules if you want long life from your engine. And plain water is never a good "coolant" regardles of climate or engine room heaters. A proper mix of coolant provides better heat transfer and corrosion protection even if the "antifreeze" properties are not necessary.

Bottom line - Get out the book, read it and do what it says.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:29 AM   #97
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Bottom line - Get out the book, read it and do what it says.
Indeed.

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Old 02-17-2014, 10:42 AM   #98
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RTFM+1!
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:16 PM   #99
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Indeed da book is good.

But time goes by and things change. Like now I think almost (or all) AF mixes w all other AF. Irregardless of color and I think the gelling that was a problem is no longer as well. At least I read that on all the products I come in contact with. So not only do we need to read da book but READ the CAN or bottle.
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