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Old 06-08-2015, 03:14 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
Caps hardly cost anything, but check there are different sizes. And you`ll have trouble getting the low psi specified caps at auto shops, mine are from AD.
I was all set to order the special neck adaptation and new cap so I could fit a siphon bottle etc, from AD, then found, as a temporary fix, the exact size and pressure cap replacement for about 6 bucks at Repco. So never bothered to order them. The previous cap had lasted 30 yrs as far as I know, and I virtually never need to add coolant. I believe in KISS.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:43 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Pavane View Post

Once we drain the antifreeze and add a couple of rounds of flush water, I'm trying to figure out whether we need to save all of that water to bring to our household hazardous waste event. Our engine holds 5 gallons of coolant, so we are talking about a lot of mostly water to haul in as hazardous waste. At some point do you feel comfortable discharging the water overboard, or as a matter of routine do you just bring it all in as hazardous waste?

Thanks again for the advice for such a novice at all of this.

Michelle
I always take the anti freeze to the county hazmat collection center.

I used to buy five gallon buckets/lids at Lowes/HD to hold used oil and antifreeze. But lately I have been buying five gallon buckets of oil so I have a decent number of them to hold used oil and anti freeze to take to the dump. Local restaurants might have five gallon buckets they do not need that held soy sauce or other products. If there is home building going on near by, the painters might have old five gallon paint buckets.

The five gallon buckets at HD/Lowes used to be reasonably priced but they eventually got pricey. I will buy them if I have too but prefer not too.

Later,
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:55 PM   #63
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Old 06-10-2015, 02:42 PM   #64
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This is an update in that I've finished my cooling system maintenance. In the end I concluded what was in there before was LLC. Replaced w same ..40% AF and 60% distilled water. The jugs the water comes in are handy for mixing.
1. Sucked out the old AF w my vacuum pump oil changer
2. Put in a load of distilled water, 2 qts AF (to prevent boiling) and Prestone Radiator Flush. Was hard to fill. I'm sure there were air pockets as the temp gauge needle didn't move off cold until more time than usual passed. And only about 5 qts of coolant went in. Took a long time starting and stopping and topping up after removing the cap under pressure (w rag) so I knew things wer'nt right. Finally stableized and I ran the engine under cruise load for 15 min.
3. Extracted the flush. I put in the 2nd flush very very slowly to minimize the air pocket problem. I used 2 qts AF to keep the coolant from boiling as my thermostat dosn't open until 190 degrees. The air pockets were much easier to purge as it worked much better than the first flush.
4. About to do the third flush I thought it would be nice to be able to access the cooling system below the thermostat where I was sure the air pockets were. I decided to repeat as in the 2nd flush and not take apart hoses and pipes to get at the lower spot.
But then I checked the top of the plumbing just above the buss heater under the L setee to see if it was open to vent as I intended to include the heater and hot water heater part of the cooling system that had been closed off w ball valves in the 2nd flush. Then I realized this side of the cooling system was access to the water jackets below the thermostat. So for the last "keeper" load of AF (40/60 LLC & dis water) I poured very slowly into the pipe (took off the pipe plug) at the very top of the whole system almost all the coolant. I poured in over a gallon before the level in the exhaust manifold started to rise. When the coolant level was 3/4" below the cap I topped off there, caped it and topped off at the pipe above (about 2' higher than the exhaust man) and then decided to go home. Since I filled from above that was actually filling from below I'm quite sure there are no air pockets and feel quite pleased w myself.

I go to the trouble to detail this as many here may be able to benefit from a similar method. On different engines access to the bottom of the system will likely be at some other point and the old method of pouring the coolant in very slowly probably still applies. This method may not require that one fill very slowly as I've only done it once. Slowly just slowly rather than very slowly may work well too. Some automotive engines fill fully from the coolant cap and some marine engines may as well. But if yours does not this method may solve the problem. Most I think don't fill easy or fully and topping off (the subject of this thread) may be required for a time after filling. The need to top off suggests that there were air pockets before.
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Old 06-10-2015, 05:05 PM   #65
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There seems to be some confusion about different types of coolant. As has been mentioned - the colour means very little.

There are mainly 3 different types. All are based on about 95% ethylene glycol or propylene glycol (less toxic version)

1. Conventional or IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology)- The standard coolant which has been used for decades. Has about 4% additives (phosphates, nitrites, silicates and pH buffer); Usually either green or yellow in colour. Cheap but limited lifespan due to the additives expiring.

2. OAT - Organic Acid Technology - A long life coolant, usually with no phosphates or silicates. Not suitable for older copper/brass radiators with lead solder. Usually orange or red in colour.
Do not mix OAT coolant with other types.

3. HOAT - Hybrid Organic Acid Technology - (also known as G-05) A long life coolant with phosphates and other additives to boost protection of aluminium and decrease cavitation.
Can be mixed with conventional coolant. Can be any colour including green.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:32 PM   #66
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AusCan,
Working on my engine so much lately I've thought about you and your new Vetus.

Looks like I'm an Oatie. I don't need aluminum protection though. I made a point of having an aluminum free engine and related systems and the coolant is not ever in contact w aluminum. However I do have an aluminum valve cover.

How many hours on the little "V"? I'm still a bit under 1000. You must use HOAT AF then?
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:31 PM   #67
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Yes, I'm using the HOAT in the new Vetus. Not many hours on it yet, as the reposer job has now morphed into a rewire job.
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:22 PM   #68
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:41 PM   #69
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One other thing I'll mention as I haven't read the entire thread. Most engine manufacturers (well Cummins and Cat, anyway) sell coolant test strips. Test your coolant in your diesel regularly because once the additive package is toast you can get cavitation around the cylinders (they expand and contract when the Pistons travel through them - really) and you can get local hotspots and overheating which can cause engine failure; or the coolant can boil and/or be blown out of the system causing overheat. That is also why you should only use plain water in a diesel in an emergency as the water cavitates even better/faster tha depleted coolant.

Anyway, sorry if this is preaching to the choir.

Get long-life for a diesel!
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:47 AM   #70
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To the original question I just changed coolant in both mains and the gen set. In a little over 2 years I added no coolant to the mains and lost track on the gen set. The gen was losing coolant and it wasn't going into the overflow bottle, I could smell it in the exhaust. I replaced the gasket between the manifold and the end plate and this seems to have cured the problem. Hopefully I've solved the problem, the only thing left was the head gasket and didn't think it was the problem because no coolant was getting into the oil.


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Old 07-03-2015, 12:48 PM   #71
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I use Powercool in my DD's. Flush and replace every year. I read and was told not to use anything but Powercool in DD's.
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