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Old 06-02-2015, 09:16 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. te. Every morning before start-up I do an ER check. Twin Lehman.
Engine oil, transmission fluid, AF (translucent overflow tank, so just a visual), belt tension. Onan 15kw generator. Oil level and AF expansion tank level, belt tension.
I do have nagging oil seepage as evidenced by spotting on the diapers in the drip pans, primarily on the stb'd engine after a days running. I've attempted to visually source these leaks/seepage to no avail. Soooo....I've purchased a product similar to this: Tracer Products Leak Finder TP8621 - Leak Detection Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Will do a diagnosis in the future...
RT - Leak finder seems interesting. Please keep us briefed! - TY, Art
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:28 PM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr. A. Will do but it won't be for a while. We're home and the boat is not and we don't anticipate visiting for some time. I might add they have tracers for engine oil, transmission fluid, coolants (Anti-Freeze) and AC systems. Evidently, NOT an uncommon analysis tool...
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Old 06-02-2015, 10:00 PM   #23
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Perhaps a better question would be "how often should I change my cooling fluid".

I don't have a surge tank. My exhaust manifold usually has a head exchanger inside but I installed mine on a bulkhead just aft of the engine. My cooling system is then more like an old car where the top of the radiator serves as an expansion tank. In my case it's the exhaust manifold upper tank. There is more coolant of course because the heat exchanger is missing. The idea behind the surge tank is/was to keep air from coming in contact w the coolant. I don't think it makes much difference but it may be of some help. The engine manufacturer strongly recommends LLC for coolant mixed 30% to about 70%. I've read 40% is optimum not considering freezing. I'm missing my manual but I'm almost sure it says to change coolant every three years. I think the green stuff (not long life) is intended to be changed every year .. or maybe two. I think LLC is mostly for corrosion resistance when aluminum parts are in contact w the coolant.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:52 AM   #24
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"Perhaps a better question would be "how often should I change my cooling fluid".

The cheap green stuff 3 years .

With a 2 part cleaner and flush flush flush.

Only distilled water should be added when filling.
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:48 AM   #25
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"Perhaps a better question would be "how often should I change my cooling fluid".

The cheap green stuff 3 years .

With a 2 part cleaner and flush flush flush.

Only distilled water should be added when filling.
Interesting statement. I've always used good clean tap water mixed appropriate to climate conditions with quality antifreeze for cooling system in motors of any type. Can see how distilled might have advantages. But I wonder... is there anything living, microbe or other entity, in clear tap water that could flourish in a cooling mix containing large %age of antifreeze??

I can see why and always use distilled water for wet batteries... but, with antifreeze? I'm anxious to learn reasons why you feel that may be better for cooling system use.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:08 AM   #26
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Before start up for the day.
Lehman 120 owners with original tank fillers (and probably original caps), if you constantly lose overflow coolant, new tank caps may fix it. Springs and seals deteriorate.
You should also bleed the air out of the engine at the top mounted petcock.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:55 AM   #27
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I always used tap water too. But I also used motor fleet (truck) coolant, never the green stuff, and changed it every spring since the motor was nearly 30 years old.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:22 AM   #28
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re: 2 drops of oil

I have the same engines Occasionally, after an oil change, I have dribbled a little oil on the valve covers when filling. I usually have a cloth handy and always wipe up all that I can see. sometimes, however, a few drips have gone into hiding and re-emerge to drip from the low points at a later time. This may be your source.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:36 AM   #29
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Many places tap water is high in mineral content...distilled is recommended but if your tap water is pretty pure and the engine isn't high performance...like most things in life will your engine know or care?

Same with antifreeze...American diesel said just use the cheapo green stuff, everything else is a waste of money...better to change frequently like oil....any antifreeze can become contaminated

But...many diesels need specific fluids best to stick with them...unless the manufacturer can't justify the difference.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:57 AM   #30
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I've used distilled water since I can remember but I'm curious about the special AF for diesels. I forgot about that and just bought regular extended life AF. Since I don't have any aluminum in contact w my coolant perhaps I don't need LLC and perhaps Amercan Diesel's recomendation to just use green is applicable to me.

Misplaced my manuals but I think it recommends LLC for my S4L2 Mitsubishi.
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:30 PM   #31
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I have started to use about a 1/2 qt of coolant on my STD Cat engine after running a few hours. No visible leaks or coolant in the oil, so I am going to pull the heat exchanger and have it tested.
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:35 PM   #32
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"I'm curious about the special AF for diesels."

Diesel SCA is required for modern engines where the coolany is in contact with the external cylinder wall.

For a throwaway like a 3208 or an oldie where the cylinder sleves are put into the cast irin block, SCA is not required.

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Old 06-03-2015, 03:50 PM   #33
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I would go with the premixed stuff. In fact, I think the Cummins authorities recommend that!
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:01 PM   #34
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[QUOTE=RT Firefly;337989]Greetings,
Mr. A. Will do but it won't be for a while. We're home and the boat is not and we don't anticipate visiting for some time.


It's always sad when they first leave home.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:41 PM   #35
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FF I asked one of my mechanics today and he asked me what was in the engine now? I thought it was green and he said to just use the green. I sensed that if I had said LLC he would have said to use that. He clearly didn't think it mattered much.

Well I stopped at the boat and looked .. whatever it is it's red. It's not the green stuff so it must be LLC of some kind. I looked at some LLC AF that had special capabilities fot Cat engines. Do you think any of these SCAs would be undesireable in my little Mitsu? Or maybe I should flush it all out and just use green. ?? The simplistic approach would be to just find some red LLC and use it.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:03 PM   #36
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Stick with what you've got or flush and replace with new. Just don't mix the green with the red. My CAT guy told me he has seen the mixture form a gel. He also said if I need to add some, and don't have the right stuff on board simply add water only as the safest approach. Wouldn't do that for winter storage without checking the specific gravity.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:48 PM   #37
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My hino EH700 have dry liners but require distilled water because of the aluminium manicoolers.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:20 AM   #38
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"Do you think any of these SCAs would be undesireable in my little Mitsu?"

The SCA works by forming a barrier of goop on the surface of the cylinder wall.

When a cavitation bubble happens it explodes and wears the goop, not the cylinder wall.

If its not needed , NOT having it might help cooling , but at your power settings , it should never be a problem either way.

ON my series 50-DD I use the green stuff , distilled water and DD SCA .

But that's 400 hp @ 2100 cont. With bare cylinder walls exposed to the coolant.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:39 AM   #39
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A few years back a knowledgeable poster posted a link to antifreeze specs or similar...

Bottom line is color really doesn't mean one thing or another to tel, you anything about the antifreeze.

You have to know the chemistry of what you have, what you need and what you add and when.

Funny how particular people are about some thing and their engines such as oil and yet pretty carefree about coolant. Even if you are...what was the PO using? Mixing? At least a little she sir if there are extra jugs hanging out in the ER.

Granted in most cases it is probably less of an issue than oil...but not all.....
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:00 AM   #40
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FF I asked one of my mechanics today and he asked me what was in the engine now? I thought it was green and he said to just use the green. I sensed that if I had said LLC he would have said to use that. He clearly didn't think it mattered much.

Well I stopped at the boat and looked .. whatever it is it's red. It's not the green stuff so it must be LLC of some kind. I looked at some LLC AF that had special capabilities fot Cat engines. Do you think any of these SCAs would be undesireable in my little Mitsu? Or maybe I should flush it all out and just use green. ?? The simplistic approach would be to just find some red LLC and use it.
I am sure if the green stuff (which is cheaper) can work in the hot south west or the freezing cold of the arctic, then it will work in you boat......just say 'in
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