Convert to 8V Serp Belt

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I just took a look at teh Deere parts book for the 4045.


John Deere - Parts Catalog


I think you want the 6202 alternator bracket option which appears to be a J180 mount for use with a serpentine belt drive. I can't tell for certain that it's J180, so that would need to be confirmed.



And look at the 3109 alternator options, but just as an example. It's an alternator that seems to use the bracket above, serp belt.


You would also have to change the crank pulley to serp, add a tensioner, and probably change the belt guard.
 
BTW, are you familiar with how the Deere option codes work? There is a sticker on your engine with a long list of numbers. Those are the options that were used when the engine was built. So one of the numbers on my tag is 6202. If you go to the parts book and look in the sectional index, you will find section 620 for Alternator Brackets. Under that sections is a list of the different bracket options, including my 6202 option. Each has a blow up diagram. It's a good arrangement that makes it easy to get the right parts for your machine, and to see what other options are available.
 
Wil said:
KK did imo a bit of a kludge on the 39 to run a 24v bow thruster with a 12v system. The two FLA 8D batteries in the Machinery Bank (MB) normally rest and charge in 12v parallel mode. To use the bow thruster, it has to first be 'activated'. When the activation switch is thrown, a solenoid right next to the MB switches it from parallel to series mode, disconnects the 12v charge circuit, and connects the now 24v series circuit to the thruster. The thruster cables (and the 12v windlass cables) run from the MB in the engine room forward to the windlass & thruster. So don't need batteries forward.

The boat has a 12v/2000w/100a inverter/charger now. The main 110vac loads are the fridge and clothes washer, though the fridge can go 12v/24v. The two 220vac 16kbtu AC units are only generator or shore power driven. So not a big 110vac load now. If I went with an induction stove, then the inverter would have to be at least 4kw preferably driven by 24vdc. Might do a smaller test run with a single ~1500w induction hob.

One step at a time though. For now, just get my house sold, move onto the boat (house in PNW, boat in GA), and hook up the new 12v/900Ah L15+ bank. One of the cool things about six L15+ is they can be reconfigured back and forth as a 12v or 24v bank. And find the most ass-kicking 12v large frame, cost-effective alternator I can strap on the 4045.
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Think if it were me, I'd have a small dedicated 24 volt bank to run the windlass and bow thruster. Charge it with a 120 volt to 24 volt battery charger that can either run off the inverter, generator or shore power. Leave the rest 12 volt. Get the induction stove that you want; run it off the generator when you need to. Running the generator will also recharge the batteries and run the water heater at the same time.

Charging my 24 volt bow thruster bank with a 120 volt charger has worked flawlessly. No complicated charging system; press the on button and push the joy stick.

I mostly cook on the grill. When I do use the electric oven, there is always other 120 needs for the generator such as a load of laundry, the water heater, and topping off the battery bank.

Ted
 
No indeed I wasn't. I knew they were option codes (see attached of the codes for my engine) but didn't know how to look them up, thanks for showing me how to do that. And thanks for the parts book link, I'll check out 6202 & 3109. A J180 mount might end up being the way to go.

A thought I had was to try and find a serp belt pulley that will bolt to my existing twin v-belt crank pulley. That would be the simplest for a left front engine bracket mounted alternator, but maybe such a pulley doesn't exist. I need to finish up here in the PNW, selling a house even in this market is a pita.
twistedtree said:
BTW, are you familiar with how the Deere option codes work? There is a sticker on your engine with a long list of numbers. Those are the options that were used when the engine was built. So one of the numbers on my tag is 6202. If you go to the parts book and look in the sectional index, you will find section 620 for Alternator Brackets. Under that sections is a list of the different bracket options, including my 6202 option. Each has a blow up diagram. It's a good arrangement that makes it easy to get the right parts for your machine, and to see what other options are available.
Click to expand...
 

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It's a thought, but two things:

1) I'd have to design and build into the hull a forward battery box and wiring, that'd be a big job. That's another good thing if I went 24v--no more need for that kludgy 12v-to-24v solenoid. One of the harder to find issues was that just one of the contacts in the solenoid wasn't closing properly, so one of the two MB batteries wasn't charging. That solenoid was a custom KK thing that is no longer manufactured, so I had to buy one sorta close to it and swap parts around.

2) I plan on changing the 200' chain rode out (pretty rusted) out for a 350-400' chain rode. The chain locker is huge and the hull-forward looks to take the added weight, but don't want to add more battery weight up forward. Already upped the anchors to a 55kg Vulcan and Fortress FX-55 :eek:.

Yeh, forgot to add the water heater to the 110vac load. Not sure on the wattage for that. We do a fair bit of grill cooking too.

O C Diver said:
Think if it were me, I'd have a small dedicated 24 volt bank to run the windlass and bow thruster. Charge it with a 120 volt to 24 volt battery charger that can either run off the inverter, generator or shore power. Leave the rest 12 volt. Get the induction stove that you want; run it off the generator when you need to. Running the generator will also recharge the batteries and run the water heater at the same time.

Charging my 24 volt bow thruster bank with a 120 volt charger has worked flawlessly. No complicated charging system; press the on button and push the joy stick.

I mostly cook on the grill. When I do use the electric oven, there is always other 120 needs for the generator such as a load of laundry, the water heater, and topping off the battery bank.

Ted
Click to expand...
 
Wil said:
It's a thought, but two things:

1) I'd have to design and build into the hull a forward battery box and wiring, that'd be a big job. That's another good thing if I went 24v--no more need for that kludgy 12v-to-24v solenoid. One of the harder to find issues was that just one of the contacts in the solenoid wasn't closing properly, so one of the two MB batteries wasn't charging. That solenoid was a custom KK thing that is no longer manufactured, so I had to buy one sorta close to it and swap parts around.

2) I plan on changing the 200' chain rode out (pretty rusted) out for a 350-400' chain rode. The chain locker is huge and the hull-forward looks to take the added weight, but don't want to add more battery weight up forward. Already upped the anchors to a 55kg Vulcan and Fortress FX-55 :eek:.

Yeh, forgot to add the water heater to the 110vac load. Not sure on the wattage for that. We do a fair bit of grill cooking too.
Click to expand...

If the 24 volt system works with the batteries in the engine room (or wherever they are) leave them there and change how you charge them. If that works, then you really only have to decide if all the changing from 12 to 24 volts and the cost, is worth the effort to run an induction stove off the inverter instead of the generator.

Ted
 
TT, I went to the Deere parts book Sectional Index with my 4045TFM01 engine and found five alternator bracket options including my own 6205 option. No 6202 option listed for my engine, just 6201-05-09-12-18 options. The blow up diagrams are identical for all five options, no J180 mount in sight. What is the model no. of your 4045 so I can look up the 6202?
twistedtree said:
BTW, are you familiar with how the Deere option codes work? There is a sticker on your engine with a long list of numbers. Those are the options that were used when the engine was built. So one of the numbers on my tag is 6202. If you go to the parts book and look in the sectional index, you will find section 620 for Alternator Brackets. Under that sections is a list of the different bracket options, including my 6202 option. Each has a blow up diagram. It's a good arrangement that makes it easy to get the right parts for your machine, and to see what other options are available.
Click to expand...
 
Both the house and machinery banks are in the engine room. Both can be configured as 12v or 24v.

Yes, that gets to the core of all of this; I want to run my generator as little as possible. I will be putting a water separator exhaust and super quiet muffler on it eventually.

There's room for two solar panels on the wheelhouse roof and four fold-up panels along the outside of the boat deck rails, but again that's down the road some. Wind generators are getting much quieter nowadays from what I've read. All it takes is money....:blush:.
O C Diver said:
If the 24 volt system works with the batteries in the engine room (or wherever they are) leave them there and change how you charge them. If that works, then you really only have to decide if all the changing from 12 to 24 volts and the cost, is worth the effort to run an induction stove off the inverter instead of the generator.

Ted
Click to expand...
 
Wil said:
Both the house and machinery banks are in the engine room. Both can be configured as 12v or 24v.

Yes, that gets to the core of all of this; I want to run my generator as little as possible. I will be putting a water separator exhaust and super quiet muffler on it eventually.

There's room for two solar panels on the wheelhouse roof and four fold-up panels along the outside of the boat deck rails, but again that's down the road some. Wind generators are getting much quieter nowadays from what I've read. All it takes is money....:blush:.
Click to expand...
Like you my goal was to use the generator less. Based on my cruising style of cruise a day sit a day, generator usage became primarily climate control and laundry. If you want to use your generator less, grill more. I also use the microwave off the inverter, a fair amount.

Ted
 
Wil said:
TT, I went to the Deere parts book Sectional Index with my 4045TFM01 engine and found five alternator bracket options including my own 6205 option. No 6202 option listed for my engine, just 6201-05-09-12-18 options. The blow up diagrams are identical for all five options, no J180 mount in sight. What is the model no. of your 4045 so I can look up the 6202?
Click to expand...


Hummm, must be different on my model. I have a 4045DTM, all mechanical, naturally aspirated. It's only rated at 80hp. Your TFM is turbo and after cooled, I believe, and develops a good bit more power. It's just a guess, but I'd bet the aftercooler gets in the way of using the 6202 bracket. This is where the Deere parts book is real nice, only showing applicable options. Sorry this one didn't cross over to your variant of the 4045.
 
Hm, it gets stranger--I went to Model Search:
John Deere - Parts Catalog
and put in '4045DTM' and it said 'No Results Found'.

Mine is all mechanical too, 115hp with turbo, probably aftercooled. A J180 would have been good...
twistedtree said:
Hummm, must be different on my model. I have a 4045DTM, all mechanical, naturally aspirated. It's only rated at 80hp. Your TFM is turbo and after cooled, I believe, and develops a good bit more power. It's just a guess, but I'd bet the aftercooler gets in the way of using the 6202 bracket. This is where the Deere parts book is real nice, only showing applicable options. Sorry this one didn't cross over to your variant of the 4045.
Click to expand...
 
Contact ...
Jeremy Borrell
Stein Manufacturing, Inc.
402-463-8453
jeremyborrell@steinmanufacturing.com

They make aux pulleys for John Deere powered heavy equipment. If you go with a double V then they probably have one in stock.
They made me an aux serpentine or my 6068...and tractor parts are a lot cheaper than boat parts.
 

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