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Old 12-05-2018, 10:09 AM   #41
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Thank you....
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:18 PM   #42
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I just spoke to Brian Smith, who says the adapter for the CAV-to-spin-on replacements likely won’t work for most Ford-Lehman engines because the heat exchanger directly below the filter elements is in the way. So they’re a no-go for my SP135s. (The exception is the FL120, where the heat exchanger isn’t in the way.)

If somebody has successfully installed a spin-on adapter on a 135, please post.
Here is a pic of my port FL 135. Yes the HE is directly below the CAV's. I have no idea how long the replacement filters would be or if they would interfere. I'm willing to bet that Brian knows for sure but sure looks like a good bit of space.
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:29 PM   #43
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Here is a pic of my port FL 135. Yes the HE is directly below the CAV's. I have no idea how long the replacement filters would be or if they would interfere. I'm willing to bet that Brian knows for sure.
This is silly. Most people with FL135's, myself included have the spin on adapters with no fitment problem. In fact there's probably enough space to stack two filters in there.

Ken
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:10 PM   #44
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Good to see, thanks Ken.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:11 PM   #45
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Ken,

Could you measure down from the original bracket on the engine to the bottom of the new spin on fuel filter and let me know how long it is? I would like to convert my SP 225s to spin on filters but donít know if they will fit or not. Also what is the part number on the filters you are using?
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:43 PM   #46
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This is silly. Most people with FL135's, myself included have the spin on adapters with no fitment problem. In fact there's probably enough space to stack two filters in there.

Ken
Sorry if my post proved wrong. I was passing along what I was told by a normally extremely reliable source. Iím not near my boat or Iíd have measured before posting. Nice to see that some sort of spin-on fits and thanks for the pix.
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:50 AM   #47
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Sorry if my post proved wrong. I was passing along what I was told by a normally extremely reliable source. Iím not near my boat or Iíd have measured before posting. Nice to see that some sort of spin-on fits and thanks for the pix.
I will try to get to my boat this evening, time to go give her a hug, and will measure the space on my 135's and let you know.

RTF mentioned checking out the filter specs/ratings. Which filters that fit the adapter fall into the 2-10 micron category?

I'm going to touch on something that is fairly blasphemous around here but over the last 18 months I have found that the extremely reliable source mentioned to be somewhat... off base at times. Different/opposite answers on different days, flat out incorrect info..... I know, blasphemous.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:04 AM   #48
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Not at all, I have posted the same with no giant backlash.

No one source is perfect....hashing out the inputs from "experts" and weighing the source here on TF hopefully gives us all the best solution for each of us.

Just like talking to 2 different people at any company may get you 2 different answers.... Sometimes one person may give the same "answer" but toss in their dissenting opinion.

Also be suspect of posters who have owned and run EXACTLY one type of boat or system being talked about and swear that is the best way or that it works great. Easy to figure out where that one goes. Nothing wrong with that input, but it does need perspective.

Like when people here say it may not be the "proper" fix, but they did it temporarily and it's worked great for thousands of engine hours.... That one can be looked at 2 ways if you find the explanation plausible.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:06 AM   #49
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Throw the filters away and remote-mount a Racor. Commonality, ease of maintenance, all the good things.
How long is your fuel line from the remote mounted Racor to the engine? I believe you mentioned having the lines made up for this application?
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:28 AM   #50
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Not at all, I have posted the same with no giant backlash.

No one source is perfect....hashing out the inputs from "experts" and weighing the source here on TF hopefully gives us all the best solution for each of us.

Just like talking to 2 different people at any company may get you 2 different answers.... Sometimes one person may give the same "answer" but toss in their dissenting opinion.

Also be suspect of posters who have owned and run EXACTLY one type of boat or system being talked about and swear that is the best way or that it works great. Easy to figure out where that one goes. Nothing wrong with that input, but it does need perspective.

Like when people here say it may not be the "proper" fix, but they did it temporarily and it's worked great for thousands of engine hours.... That one can be looked at 2 ways if you find the explanation plausible.
Thanks PS. I like talking about these things, learning from others during the discussion. Somehow I always get back to the fact that the boat knows more than I do. Whatever my idea or upgrade, the original setup is something that was designed by the builder that the boat has used for 31 years and 4,300 hours and has been perfectly fine. And now here comes Mr. Newbie who wants to change it? I am pretty cautious (code word for scared to death) in the engine room, maybe overly so. There is a fine line between a real upgrade and pi$$ing on it to make it mine so to speak. That being said, the number of people who seem to have done this particular upgrade tells me it's a worthy and reasonable endeavor.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:38 AM   #51
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These are on a 135

Sorry only pictures that I have. This is a 135. Purchased this way.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:45 AM   #52
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Thanks Easting. How do you fill them with fuel when you install? Pour through the top after or fill them up before spin on?
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:56 AM   #53
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Thanks Easting. How do you fill them with fuel when you install? Pour through the top after or fill them up before spin on?
Havenít changed them yet. Boat purchased in August. Will do in the spring. It does not have any type of auxiliary pump to prime so not sure what the best option will be.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:05 AM   #54
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Thanks PS. I like talking about these things, learning from others during the discussion. Somehow I always get back to the fact that the boat knows more than I do. Whatever my idea or upgrade, the original setup is something that was designed by the builder that the boat has used for 31 years and 4,300 hours and has been perfectly fine. And now here comes Mr. Newbie who wants to change it? I am pretty cautious (code word for scared to death) in the engine room, maybe overly so. There is a fine line between a real upgrade and pi$$ing on it to make it mine so to speak. That being said, the number of people who seem to have done this particular upgrade tells me it's a worthy and reasonable endeavor.
Some boats and engines can use the help though, especially older tech ones.

This was my solution to my crumbling CAVs.

Even sold them to pay for a lot of the new filter.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:07 AM   #55
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Quote:
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Ken,

Could you measure down from the original bracket on the engine to the bottom of the new spin on fuel filter and let me know how long it is? I would like to convert my SP 225s to spin on filters but donít know if they will fit or not. Also what is the part number on the filters you are using?

I probably won't be back to the boat for a couple of weeks, but I'll try to get you the measurements then. There's really quite a bit of space.



The filter is a WIx 33361 which has a nominal 6 micron rating.


As far as prefilling the filters goes I've read its better if you can fill them with a pump after install due to the fact that pouring fuel into the filter means you get a slug of totally unfiltered fuel to the injector pump. This sounds logical to me, but considering the thousands of gallons of fuel that go through the pump, one small quantity of unfiltered (as long as its clean fuel) shouldn't really be a problem. My boat happened to come with electric pumps for priming which work very well.



Ken
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:05 AM   #56
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Blasphemous, I’ll tiptoe in—-

How does one know the micron rating or beta ratio of your last chance fuel filter if you stray from OEM? The danger of a thread like this is that because something can be done doesn’t mean it should be done.

Personally, if concerned about changing the CAVs annually, I’d add a good SB marine fleet guard setup in advance of the last chance. Then the last chance will move out to several year cycle. Surely one can take the time to change the last chance every few years with an OEM filter and not screw up your injection system.
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:28 AM   #57
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Greetings,
I have, in the past, very seriously considered a spin on(s) as a CAV replacement on our 120's due to the PIA factor of changing the CAV's. Fortunately or unfortunately, the last time I did do a filter change it went swimmingly. No problem what-so-ever. So now, I'm torn. Replace with spin-on adapters or leave as is...





Edit: No clearance problems on the 120.
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:29 AM   #58
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I had once considered spin on adapters for the dual CAV filters on my Perkins T6.3544 engine, but realized as you did I didn't have enough clearance under the filters as the adapters add an inch or two in height. I'll stay with what I have.
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Old 12-06-2018, 11:35 AM   #59
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Here's another rock to drop in your pond, nothing to do with fuel, but why are you Lehman owners leaving your oil filters mounted upside down so that they drain when you shut down? I'll bet dollars to doughnuts those filters are partially or totally empty when you start and it takes a few seconds to get oil pressure after a cold start? I'll also bet that removing that filter makes a huge mess when its time to change it out? You are relying on a check valve mounted on the filter, if you are lucky it is in the filter mount body but don't hold your breath; many filters do not even have that simple thing. Make your bearings happy and keep your engine room cleaner and mount the filter "upside down" like a mug of coffee.

Why not invert it? There appears to be plenty of room in that photo. That's another mod I made, the oil pressure was nearly instant on a cold start with inverting and all you need to do is use a ziplock bag over it to change it out. Remember to fill it before installation. All the Cummins I am familiar with mount the oil filter that way.
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Old 12-06-2018, 11:48 AM   #60
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Greetings,
Mr. X. I never noticed that on the 135's. I thought ours were bad being sideways (Only 1/2 the mess I suppose). Yup, one of these days, longer oil lines and like a coffee mug.
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