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Old 07-21-2016, 12:59 PM   #81
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I would not run to failure as it will just make the rebuild that much more expensive. You have metal in the filter. You can not get metal in the filter unless there is metal in the pan. So you can carry on wasting money or you can just pull the engine out and get after it. Metal in the pan is never a good thing. Pull the heads- you can do that yourself. Pull anything else off you can and get ready to lift the engine out. The only way you can be sure you have all the metal particles out of the engine is to completely disassemble the engine clean everything and start over.
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:50 AM   #82
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"I would not run to failure as it will just make the rebuild that much more expensive".

I would disagree.

THe world is awash with 3208s , there might not even be a core charge depending on the rebuilder.

If the engine were one of the Volvo unobtanium items , a quick removal might save bucks.

If you look to the recyclers the usual rule of thumb is 50 miles is an hour of engine time in non waste gathering vehicles.
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:37 AM   #83
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Running it to failure is a terrible idea and dangerous. The last thing you want is an engine to kick a rod out the side and spray hot oil and coolant everywhere. The potential for fire alone makes it a very bad idea.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:33 AM   #84
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Rob,

Sorry but I don't remember how long it has been since the engine has been rebuild but did the PO get a Warranty of any kind? If there is no Warranty, I think in may be time to start taking her apart. I would get a box ziplock bags, a marker and take lots of pics. Nothing worse then forgetting how to put it back together weeks from now or just losing the parts.

Best of Luck
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Old 07-22-2016, 09:44 AM   #85
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Why you all push so hard to start dismantle the engine? Again wait for the results and make your plan...

In advance you can start with measuring everything to make a plan how to get the engine out, complete.. head(s) removed.. etc. If half possible leave the sump on to protect the cranckshaft and to protect your boat against oil spils..
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:47 AM   #86
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Rob,

Sorry but I don't remember how long it has been since the engine has been rebuild but did the PO get a Warranty of any kind? If there is no Warranty, I think in may be time to start taking her apart. I would get a box ziplock bags, a marker and take lots of pics. Nothing worse then forgetting how to put it back together weeks from now or just losing the parts.

Best of Luck
Jim
The rebuild was done in 2004 and now has 1700 hours. I was told it was going to be used as a charter boat but that fell through. Since then, I think I am the third owner, so I don't think any warranty would carry over that many years and owners.

I have most of next week off. By then I should have the sample analysis results, hopefully it will tell me something. Next week I can formulate a plan to get the pan off and get someone to help me get the head on the head off and see what happens. Who knows, maybe then someone will be able to come take a look at it
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:42 PM   #87
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As the owner of a late 80's boat with 3208's, I've been following your thread and appreciate you continuing with your updates.

It sounds to me like you're handling it the right way. Do the simple checks and look for obvious issues. I've learned over the years that there are times to try to tackle a job yourself and others that are best left to the experts. Complex engine internals is probably one of those left to the experts, so I would encourage you to continue to be patient and let the expert look at it when they can. Nothing worse than figuring out the issue you were trying to solve was simple but you broke something expensive trying to fix it yourself.

Good luck and please keep us updated.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:12 PM   #88
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well, the results are in. I haven't dug in yet to try to figure out what they mean, but it sure doesn't sound good initially from my uneducated perspective. I am supposed to meet the mechanic tomorrow morning, hopefully nothing else comes up and it really happens.

The Microscopic results in brief:
Ferrogram Interpretation: There were significant amounts of abrasive/dust/dirt particles and moderate amounts of ferrous rubbing wear particles and nonferrous white metal rubbing wear particles present on the slide. Also, there were a few ferrous/nonferrous cutting wear particles, ferrous/nonferrous white metal rolling wear platelet particles, and ferrous sliding wear particles observed on the slide. There were a few black oxide particles and fiber particles found on the slide. The presence of rolling wear platelet particles suggests possible surface fatigue and/or rolling contact failure due to metal-to-metal sliding and/or abrasive contamination. Sliding wear particles are indicative of possible excessive running speeds, lubricant degradation, overheating, and/or heavy abrasive/dust/dirt particles. The presence of cutting wear particles suggests possible misalignment and/or abrasive contamination. The presence of black oxide particles suggests possible overheating and/or lubricant starvation. The morphology of the abrasive/dust/dirt particles suggests possible contamination of the sample and/or reservoir from an external source.

The general sample showed 58ppm Fe and 55ppm Al. The rest of the results were unremarkable. The report they gave me says (I deleted all of the other elements that were not listed as a concern):

Aluminum (Al) Iron (Fe)

POSSIBLE ORIGINATING SOURCE
Al-Bearings - Bushings - Blocks - Pistons - Blowers - Pumps - Clutches -
Fe- Blocks - Bearing - Cylinders - Pumps - Liners - Gears - Pistons - Rings - Discs - Shafts - Screws - Valves






So, I keep going forward at a tortoise pace and in the back of my mind run through possible logistics of how I would pull it if I have to and when. Hopefully the mechanic can provide some guidance between the audio/video and the oil report
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:35 PM   #89
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Rob if you want to save money start taking the engine apart and make the block light as possible for removal. I am no expert but if you hire someone to do all the work 60 to 80 percent of your cost for the repair will be labor. I'm just guessing maybe Ski will chime in.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:41 PM   #90
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It's now been 8 months since I did the port engine rebuild on our boat. Like Ski says start by removing the heads. Really does not take that long and like said earlier they have to come off anyway. The engine will fit through a 26" passageway without the heads on but the front cover still attached. On our boat to get it out of the engine compartment it was down to the short block.

If I had to do it all over again I would not rebuild using all CAT factory parts. There are plenty of good aftermarket parts and also engine rebuilders who will supply you a short block with a warranty. The heads can be taken local for exchange or have them do the re-work. If you really try you can get this job done for a reasonable cost and have her back up and going again at least by next season.

It's a boat and $h!t happens. I feel your pain.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:55 PM   #91
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$hit definitely happens, but I wish it would have waited a little longer! I would have just bought the fixer upper from the start for 30k less if saw this coming. I want to do as much of the labor as I can but I always have the hardest time with the diagnosis. Maybe I need to quit thinking and just start doing. Thanks for the replies
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:54 AM   #92
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Sounds like a piston and its liner, doesn't has to be dramatic. Might be possible to hone only that one cilinder to an over-size and replace the piston with a new one that matches the over-size.

Check and double check the cranckshaft bearings and its running surface...... (the found white metal, but can be within tolerance)

Okay now its time to use your plan to get the engine ashore..

https://www.google.nl/search?q=how+t...u0A1wQ_AUIBigB
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:47 AM   #93
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"There are plenty of good aftermarket parts and also engine rebuilders who will supply you a short block with a warranty."

This is because CAT and many other co simply have parts fabricated for them , and then stuck in a CAT box.

The same "aftermarket" guy may have made the part for CAT in the first place.

For a rebuild price here,

http://www.jasperengines.com/diesel-industrial-engines
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:42 PM   #94
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Pulled the head and found this guy in the suspected cylinder. Any ideas on what causes this and how to fix it? Is it just as "easy" as a new piston?
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:55 PM   #95
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Hard for me to tell from the picture, but is that part of the piston top? Is that some melted metal on top? If so what does the top of the head look like?

The thing to do now is figure out what caused the piston to fail.
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:01 PM   #96
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Pulled the head and found this guy in the suspected cylinder. Any ideas on what causes this and how to fix it? Is it just as "easy" as a new piston?
See post #92.
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:04 PM   #97
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As far as I can tell, it's part of the top of the piston. It was actually stuck to the top of the cylinder when I pulled the head. Looked like it broke off and just stuck at the top so the piston was matching up to it every time, it wasn't floating around in the cylinder space as far as I can tell. I think there'd be more damage and more pieces if that was the case. Top of the head looked fine to me other than being pretty dirty. I'll post pics from my phone in another post.
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:14 PM   #98
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Here's the head. Too bad I can't just pull the piston and have a V-7 for a few months!
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:18 PM   #99
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Most probably the injector of that cilinder malfunctioning causing
symptoms like this (over heating). But must see it with my eyes to be sure of the cause...
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:19 PM   #100
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Here's the head. Too bad I can't just pull the piston and have a V-7 for a few months!
no chance.

I know that in europe this is not a financial drama, but also examen the cranckshaft..
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