Do what the book says. If I don't have any guidance, this is my general protocol:
If galleries are dry, prime with clean oil. Outboard squeeze bulb comes in handy, again.
No special oil.
Crank up engine and as soon as pressure registers, raise rpm to 1000-1200.
Bark throttle to get some pressure on rings.
Check for leaks, smoke, smooth running. If all seems well, shut it down, do final valve lash check, and put it in the boat.
You want to minimize light load running and minimize idling.
Once boat is capable of getting under way, start it up, get off the dock and warm it up in gear at 1000. Once at full temp, add some power, then back down to 1000. Do this repeatedly going gradually higher power and for longer periods of time. After an hour or two of this, give it a quick burst of full power and check that it can make the desired turns.
Then for next 50hrs or 100hrs, try to vary load, minimize long term idling, and do not be afraid to run it hard. Hard running beds in the rings. No load running glazes liners. Low rpm hard on cams.
I change the oil on a new build after about 10-20hrs. Not much more material is going in the oil after that, back to normal change interval.
Many performance engine builders swear on running the snot out of new engine right out of the box. There is sound theory to back up their plan, but I am a little to gutless to do it on a customer's engine!!
Every engine guy has a different strategy with running in, but the above has worked well for me.