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Old 10-07-2014, 11:57 AM   #21
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Aquadrive system installer in PNW

I've decided to install the Aquadrive system in my trawler to alleviate aliagnment problems that go back to an earlier repower. Has anyone installed one in their boat? Can you recommend a boatyard or mechanic in the PNW who has experience specing and installing these systems? (I asked the regional AD distributor for referrals but they were unable to provide any?)
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:07 PM   #22
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I got my AD from Drivelines NW in Everett. Installed it myself.

They should know boatyards to recomend. Boatyard work seems always a mixed bag so I don't like to recommend. I've heard, however Boat Diesel in Anacortes is good.

Go to the people that sell engines like Gallery Marine in Seattle. An AD install should be a walk in the park for good engine installer.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:49 AM   #23
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Eric, Gallery Marine was responsible for the botched repower in '07.
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:21 AM   #24
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nwboater,
Oh ... Already have them on my undesirable lets not go there list. Not from personal experience however. Almost bought my new engine from them. They had in their lineup at the time a 42hp Kabota/Universal engine. Very heavy, all cast iron and rated at 2500rpm. Before I choose an engine it was no longer available ... probably wouldn't meet "Tierll" EPA.

With my present Mitsubishi they are a backup parts source for the base engine.

Is Gallery Marine making any moves toward accepting responsibility for your bad installation? Sure hope so. Glad I didn't recommend Gallery specifically.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:40 PM   #25
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I had an aquadrive on a previous boat. It was standard equipment from the factory. It seemed to work well. One recommendation; coat the entire assembly with anticorrosion spray once or twice a year. I used Woody Wax and then switched to CorrosionX. If you don't do this, the aquadrive will rapidly build up a coating of rust.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwboater View Post
Eric, Gallery Marine was responsible for the botched repower in '07.
My just finished experience with Townsend Bay Marine in Port Townsend was excellent. They are the first yard I have ever dealt with that was 1). reasonably priced ($60/hour), and 2). completely competent. They prepared an estimate of the likely cost of the work that needed doing (cutlass bearings, bottom paint, prop work, PYI shaft seal maintenance, thruster and fin servicing) and hit it pretty much on the nose even though I added some things and didn't do some things I thought needed doing based on their recommendations. They took pictures of everything they touched, and prepared a 1 1/2 page commentary on things to think about. They noticed and commented on a number of open issues. For example, bow thruster port and starboard props reversed (happens about 50% of the time, they say), engine out of alignment (unexpected, since I have paid two other yards twice to do precisely that but it clearly has never been done correctly), noted that one of the floor boards in the E/R was in contact with the shaft, etc.

In addition, when we found that the i.d. of the stern tube was some weird metric (built in Norway in 1965) while the cutlass bearings were 15 thousand bigger, the manager took them home to his shop and turned them to fit.

Another upside is that the lifts are owned and maintained by the Port of P.T., meaning they are in great shape with very professional operators. Great experience.

Downside - like all boat yards the amount of dust and crud you collect in 10 days on the hard is hard to believe. Took me 4 hours to clean it all off. But I am not complaining and this would be my first recommendation in the NW for a yard.

Were I installing an aqua drive, these would be the first guys I would talk to.
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:24 PM   #27
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@ Delfin

4 hours to clean a vessel as lovely as your would be seen as a blessing to me. I can't get away with 6 hours. I find the parts I painted myself take 30 minutes compared to the decks that had a flatten agent and professionally applied takes way too much time. Add to the equation that the only thing in life I feel anal about is a boat deck.

Just to keep on topic: I love my aqua drive. It is original equipment, but I have replaced the CV joint once due to boot failure. Then I became enlightened to the fact that a racing style CV joint boot for a VW racing setup was the way to source my fix.

Pegasus Racing out of Wisconsin supplied the boot for K-mart pricing. Why the boot fails and needs replaced is still mystery to me. The actual CV joint was fine but the grease thrown from the failed boot causes quite a mess.
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:01 AM   #28
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Choose the installer with great care .

It is far harder to engineer and mount the thrust bearing than simply R&R an engine.
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:16 AM   #29
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Maybe I missed this in Posts... But... What is average cost for aqua drive unit and its professional installation per engine?
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:46 PM   #30
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Art, two years ago I bought a new AD joint and it was around $475 not including the bearing support as the boat has one. I would guess adding one to a boat that was not set up origionaly would be $2k or $3k each depending on ease of shaft removal and adding a support for the bearings.

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Old 10-15-2014, 03:53 PM   #31
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I realize this story is too late to change the OP's mind and it is about a Drive Saver, not an Aqua Drive, but here goes anyway:

Years ago I bought a really nice J/32 sailboat. The engine vibrated at higher rpms, so I got a price adjustment to deal with that. It had a folding prop and a Drive Saver.

I wanted to replace the folding prop with a Max Prop as part of the solution to the vibration problem. The yard doing the work said to get rid of the Drive Saver. It wasn't doing any good they said and when it was installed the PO didn't shorten the shaft to make up for the Drive Saver. The prop was extending beyond the 1-1/2 diameter rule of thumb and may have been causing the vibration. I said ok.

It turned out great. Smooth as silk. All I could figure out was that the PO installed the Drive Saver to reduce vibration. Turns out that the vibration was caused by a bent prop. The bolt holding the two halves of the folding prop together had a 1/2" kink in it.

The moral of the story: get your drive train right and you don't need a kludge.

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Old 10-15-2014, 04:41 PM   #32
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Thanks guys - Feeler gauge has for decades been my trusted friend!

Costly Suckers: Aqua Drives / Drive Savers or whatever they may be called.
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