antifreeze
- Thread starter ralphyost
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Delfin
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There are some pretty significant differences in coolant chemistry.* This sometimes looks like a place where one can save money, but that probably isn't a great idea.* As Carey suggested, talk to the dealer to see what they recommend.* I'm using CAT ELC, which costs about $17/gallon and lasts 5 years.* Cummins makes a similar product.* What is best depends on the year of manufacture, block material, etc.
Definitely not Prestone, however.....
Definitely not Prestone, however.....
jleonard
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Ralph, You know I am a Prestone(or equivelent) fan. The Lehman manual says to use a generic antifreeze. So does the Cummins manual at least for the 1999 era engine that I bought new.
Wet sleeved engines are different as they have other consderations that a parent bore engine does not have.
Wet sleeved engines are different as they have other consderations that a parent bore engine does not have.
Keith
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I've always used Prestone orange in my engines, currently a Lehman 135. Always dilute with distilled water.
FF
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Prestone is fine , but after an overheat may become acidic . A PH tester is cheap.
3 years is time for a good flush and renewal with fresh antifreeze.
The only caution is any more modern engine where the cylinders them selves are directly exposed to the coolant.
Rather than cylinders inside the block casting .
These MUST gave proper diesel antifreeze to stop the cylinder erosion from cavitation.
Prestone can work, but special SCA additives are required, at your local big truck store.
And the flushing compound will be a more aggressive 2 part solution.
3 years is time for a good flush and renewal with fresh antifreeze.
The only caution is any more modern engine where the cylinders them selves are directly exposed to the coolant.
Rather than cylinders inside the block casting .
These MUST gave proper diesel antifreeze to stop the cylinder erosion from cavitation.
Prestone can work, but special SCA additives are required, at your local big truck store.
And the flushing compound will be a more aggressive 2 part solution.
I would not ask the dealer, I have seen dealers ignore the manufacturer's specifications (they did that with oil on my previous boat). The manufacturer specifications for your engine is what you should go by. I have a Volvo and they specify Volvo antifreeze (duh) at $27.00 per gallon. Still, it's a pretty expensive engine so that's what I use.
Phil Fill
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I read the DD 671 manual, I very seldom read instruction/manuals, and it said antifreeze that met 4 conditions is OK, which Prestone does.* Prestone now makes a diesel antifreeze which comes in a black bottle instead of the yellow.* Prestone yellow is also recommend for the Webasto which can also pre heater the DD 671.* Have not changed/flush for about 5 years so I put it on the TO DO list.*
You can call Phil, Everett Diesel, 360 789 8250.**
You can call Phil, Everett Diesel, 360 789 8250.**
FF
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to 50-ish ratio of tap water.
Not a great idea as most tap water has loads of goodies that can percipitate out , pluging heat exchangers etc.
At 75c a gal for distilled , where is the saving, to equal the risk?
Not a great idea as most tap water has loads of goodies that can percipitate out , pluging heat exchangers etc.
At 75c a gal for distilled , where is the saving, to equal the risk?
Delfin
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*Ralph, Prestone comes in yellow cans for gas engines and black cans for diesel.* Neither is approved by Ford for their engines, but the yellow is a definite no-no for diesels because of the high silicates.* I believe if you look in the manual for the engine they will recommend Xerex.
*
Nomad Willy
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I use a Chevron product (old fashioned green) and mix it with about 70% distilled water.
Keith
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Bob Smith of American Diesel told me Prestone was fine for the Lehman line. Mix with distilled water and change every 3 years and it'll be fine. I use the orange version.
OP
OP
ralphyost
Senior Member
Keith
Bob Smith told me the same and he didnt distinguish between the different colors of the container or Prestone. He said use either Prestone or Zerex mixed with distilled water.
*
Looking at the Prestone web site, it appears that their HEAVY DUTY black bottle antifreeze is most suited for diesels.
R.
-- Edited by ralphyost on Thursday 24th of March 2011 02:53:51 PM
Bob Smith told me the same and he didnt distinguish between the different colors of the container or Prestone. He said use either Prestone or Zerex mixed with distilled water.
*
Looking at the Prestone web site, it appears that their HEAVY DUTY black bottle antifreeze is most suited for diesels.
R.
-- Edited by ralphyost on Thursday 24th of March 2011 02:53:51 PM
Delfin
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Ralph, Bob may not have differentiated between types of Prestone, but there is a significant difference.* If you are going to use Prestone, don't use the automotive product that contains high silicates.* It is not suitable for diesels.* As I noted, the black can is their diesel product, but it is getting close enough in cost to coolant made by diesel manufacturers that it might be worth considering getting a top line product for a mission critical function.* CAT ELC goes for 5 years without any problem, and I know that Cummins makes a similar top line product.* Just an opinion....
Assuming that you had antifreeze in the unit.
The green stuff is ethylene glycol.* MIxed 50/50 with water takes you to about -35 deg F. Don't dispose of in the water or let your animals if any lick it up they will get sick or worse.* Typical life span in a boat is probably 3 years, maybe 4.* It becomes acidic with age and you can actually check with a voltmeter, but thats another subject.* Almost any inexpensive checker will tell you the protection level, but not the acidic factor.
FWIW
Do not use the green stuff straight, it will actually freeze at about +10 deg F.* You probably have a 7 lb expansion tank cap.* Water boils at 212 F.* with each pound of pressure you raise the boiling point by about 3 degrees, the anti freeze itself will provide and additional 1 degree per lb.* There fore you have hot protection to about 240 F.* Most Temperature "indicators" (I hate the term gauges) will not function without water, ergo blow a hose off and you may not have an indication.
Some of the new (as in brand new) engines are using the pink which is a propylene glycol.* In some applications it does not like constant very high temperatures. It takes a different type of tool to check the protection level.* I have used the sight glass one for years for either type (and it also checks my batteries)
Frankly once you put the green stuff into an engine, the pink stuff will not have the long life intended if you change to it.** Some of the older diesels used specific blends for constant Hi temp operation.
Hope this helps, Carl
The green stuff is ethylene glycol.* MIxed 50/50 with water takes you to about -35 deg F. Don't dispose of in the water or let your animals if any lick it up they will get sick or worse.* Typical life span in a boat is probably 3 years, maybe 4.* It becomes acidic with age and you can actually check with a voltmeter, but thats another subject.* Almost any inexpensive checker will tell you the protection level, but not the acidic factor.
FWIW
Do not use the green stuff straight, it will actually freeze at about +10 deg F.* You probably have a 7 lb expansion tank cap.* Water boils at 212 F.* with each pound of pressure you raise the boiling point by about 3 degrees, the anti freeze itself will provide and additional 1 degree per lb.* There fore you have hot protection to about 240 F.* Most Temperature "indicators" (I hate the term gauges) will not function without water, ergo blow a hose off and you may not have an indication.
Some of the new (as in brand new) engines are using the pink which is a propylene glycol.* In some applications it does not like constant very high temperatures. It takes a different type of tool to check the protection level.* I have used the sight glass one for years for either type (and it also checks my batteries)
Frankly once you put the green stuff into an engine, the pink stuff will not have the long life intended if you change to it.** Some of the older diesels used specific blends for constant Hi temp operation.
Hope this helps, Carl
FF
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"Do not use the green stuff straight, it will actually freeze at about +10 deg F. "
The hassle Other with antifreeze is it can only* transfer heat at about 5/8 the speed of water.
So straight will perhaps cause the engine to have cooling problems.
About 35% AF is required on most engines to get the water pump lube and corrosion control you paid for.
Here in FL we use 35% ,when* in CT we bump up to 50/50 as it is colder there.
-- Edited by FF on Saturday 26th of March 2011 04:49:10 AM
The hassle Other with antifreeze is it can only* transfer heat at about 5/8 the speed of water.
So straight will perhaps cause the engine to have cooling problems.
About 35% AF is required on most engines to get the water pump lube and corrosion control you paid for.
Here in FL we use 35% ,when* in CT we bump up to 50/50 as it is colder there.
-- Edited by FF on Saturday 26th of March 2011 04:49:10 AM
Forkliftt
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We started stocking the "premixed" AF on our service vans a few years back. We generally stock the ELC as I recall. It simplifies the question of how much AF/ water is it gonna hold.
Tom.B
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Ok... Thanks to you guys, I'm going to swap out the antifreeze with the low silicate version and distilled water. Are we all ok with Fleet Charge and distilled water from a gallon jug from the grocery store?
Now, I want to flush out the old stuff. I was planning on draining what's in there, filling back up with water, run the engine until up to temp (to let the thermostats open) then rinse and repeat. Any objection to this plan?
Now, I want to flush out the old stuff. I was planning on draining what's in there, filling back up with water, run the engine until up to temp (to let the thermostats open) then rinse and repeat. Any objection to this plan?
Keith
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If you're going to flush, you might as well use a flush concentrate from the auto parts store.
jleonard
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*I would follow the directions printed on the label.
*
Tom.B
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Got some Peak flush today. Directions say to drain, fill back with water, run for 10 minutes, drain again, fill with water and flush solution while motor is running(!), drive for 3-6 hours (!), drain, flush with water, fill with coolant... HOLY CRAP-A-MOLEY.
Can you run a diesel that long on just water? I want to doubt it, but you guys are the experts.
Can you run a diesel that long on just water? I want to doubt it, but you guys are the experts.
jleonard
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You can run on straight water it won't hurt a thing.
Delfin
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Just don't skimp on the number of flushes.*
DaveV
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A new Cummins QSB requires special Cummins premix coolant and I think there is a warranty concern without it. Older engines may be different but I'd choose expensive and proven materials for a powerplant to avoid costly repairs. Cheap and familiar has its place (Prestone) but if its not really meant for heavy duty marine engine use why risk it?
